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"Now he called his name Noah, saying, 'This one will give us rest from our work and from the toil of our hands arising from the ground which the Lord has cursed." -Genesis 5:29 (NASB)
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Sometimes the answer is nothing
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'Theoretically this level of creeping Orwellian dynamics should ramp up our awareness, but what happens instead is that each alert becomes less and less effective because we're incredibly stupid.' - Jerry Holkins
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wayne fajkus wrote:
The flinging of oil at that top sprocket is why bar oil is made the way it is made. I can't think of the term, but it is like a taffy. The oil stays connected to itself. This keeps all the oil from flinging off at that turn before it is needed for the cut.
"Study books and observe nature; if they do not agree, throw away the books." ~ William A. Albrecht
James Freyr wrote:
wayne fajkus wrote:
I use a commercially available vegetable based bar & chain oil in my saw.
What do you use? What is your impression of it? Do you have an ingredients list?
"Now he called his name Noah, saying, 'This one will give us rest from our work and from the toil of our hands arising from the ground which the Lord has cursed." -Genesis 5:29 (NASB)
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"Study books and observe nature; if they do not agree, throw away the books." ~ William A. Albrecht
"Now he called his name Noah, saying, 'This one will give us rest from our work and from the toil of our hands arising from the ground which the Lord has cursed." -Genesis 5:29 (NASB)
"Study books and observe nature; if they do not agree, throw away the books." ~ William A. Albrecht
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Sometimes the answer is nothing
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Regrets Last
James Freyr wrote:Maybe an alcohol soak or drench would dissolve old dry oil residue easily and not be a tedious task.
"Now he called his name Noah, saying, 'This one will give us rest from our work and from the toil of our hands arising from the ground which the Lord has cursed." -Genesis 5:29 (NASB)
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wayne fajkus wrote:I made some from cow fat. It seems very viable. Almost a liquid at room temperature.
"Now he called his name Noah, saying, 'This one will give us rest from our work and from the toil of our hands arising from the ground which the Lord has cursed." -Genesis 5:29 (NASB)
Alley Bate wrote:
I'm finding that by the time I don my chaps and hardhat, fuel and oil the saw I can have a 10" or smaller tree cut most of the way through with an axe, and a little one down and a good way started on the limbing. Probably with less sweat and definately less stress. Even when falling multiple trees with a chainsaw I'm now gonna stick to an axe for limbing. Most of my trees are willow, alder, poplar, cottonwood and fir.
"Now he called his name Noah, saying, 'This one will give us rest from our work and from the toil of our hands arising from the ground which the Lord has cursed." -Genesis 5:29 (NASB)
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Michael Holtman wrote:
wayne fajkus wrote:I made some from cow fat. It seems very viable. Almost a liquid at room temperature.
I realize you are in texas, but what qualifies as room temperature in your mind? We have lard(from hogs) that is mostly solid(ish) in the upper 70s. The only beef tallow I have ever stored for any length of time would not turn to liquid until it reached 80 something degrees F. I wonder if is depends on what part the fat comes from, or maybe even the rendering process. This is new to me, unless maybe I'm missing something?
Sometimes the answer is nothing
Michael Holtman wrote:
Alley Bate wrote:
I'm finding that by the time I don my chaps and hardhat, fuel and oil the saw I can have a 10" or smaller tree cut most of the way through with an axe, and a little one down and a good way started on the limbing. Probably with less sweat and definately less stress. Even when falling multiple trees with a chainsaw I'm now gonna stick to an axe for limbing. Most of my trees are willow, alder, poplar, cottonwood and fir.
I share much of your sentiments here. I don't usually want or need a chainsaw. I have one(sort-of, It's a family/community tool, I am the primary care taker of it and other tools). I don't like to use it. I don't want to use it. A good cross cut saw will cut almost as fast if properly maintained. This is why I struggle to see it as appropriate technology. I will use one at a house fire, but i would just as quickly grab an ax for the same job. I am probably one of two or three on my department who would actually ventilate with an axe. Some of our officers would give up if the saw didn't start. It comes down to knowing your tool.
'Theoretically this level of creeping Orwellian dynamics should ramp up our awareness, but what happens instead is that each alert becomes less and less effective because we're incredibly stupid.' - Jerry Holkins
"Now he called his name Noah, saying, 'This one will give us rest from our work and from the toil of our hands arising from the ground which the Lord has cursed." -Genesis 5:29 (NASB)
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Phil Stevens wrote:Sebastian, do you know if your chainsaw oil (we call it two-stroke oil in many places) is a petroleum product or castor oil? Castor oil was the additive of choice when I was growing up and I still have nostalgia for that smell.
Michael Holtman wrote:
Are you saying that I can run a two stroke engine on homemade ethanol mixed with home pressed castor oil??? I use non-ethanol gasoline(petrol) now, but i could be converted if I figured out how to make my own fuel!
Travis Johnson wrote:Yes you can. Any oil is better than no oil. You just have to use more of it so that it does not score your pistons while operating.
A lot of people think you need 2 stroke oil to make 2 stroke gas for chainsaws and such. Nope. I have dumped in 10W-40 for years and my Stihl Chainsaw lived 22 years. When it died it was because I ran it over with my bulldozer.
And goodness, do not even get me started on bar and chain oil. I have not bought that in years. It costs $10 a gallon!! A Bar for my chainsaw costs $30. Since my bar wears out no matter what I use, then I am not going to get some magical life out of my bar using bar and chain oil, so I use the cheapest oil I can buy, typically hydraulic oil, but I have also used spent motor oil, old fry oil, etc. Since I get 150 cords of wood cut per $30 bar, I am WAY ahead money wise instead of spending money on bar and chain oil.
A guy told me professional loggers do that, "they buy bar and chain oil", but as I told him, then they are not very good with math, and probably have not done the math.
"Now he called his name Noah, saying, 'This one will give us rest from our work and from the toil of our hands arising from the ground which the Lord has cursed." -Genesis 5:29 (NASB)
wayne fajkus wrote:The oil has to travel one side of the bar, whip around 180 degrees at the top of the bar, then travel to where the cutting edge is and where the oil is needed.
The flinging of oil at that top sprocket is why bar oil is made the way it is made. I can't think of the term, but it is like a taffy. The oil stays connected to itself. This keeps all the oil from flinging off at that turn before it is needed for the cut.
Thats my understanding. Any oil will work, even olive oil, except for that flinging at the top sprocket.
Chainsaw mills can and do use vegetable oils because they can rig it to drop on the chain after the top sprocket. Precise metering exactly where needed. .
"Now he called his name Noah, saying, 'This one will give us rest from our work and from the toil of our hands arising from the ground which the Lord has cursed." -Genesis 5:29 (NASB)
![[Thumbnail for Husqvarna.jpg]](/t/123576/a/90251/Husqvarna.jpg "Filename: Husqvarna.jpg
Description: My Favorite Lumber Jill with my Disposable Chainsaw (562 husky)")
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