Rose Pinder wrote:An article about permaculture in Sweden
Have you considered heated glass houses, using chickens, solar, composts or SHCS etc for heat?
Brenda Groth wrote:well I'm surprised you wouild be zone 6, as here in Michigan I'm zone 4/5. We of course do not have the 24 hour sun, nor do we have quite as early frosts but we did have our last frost June 13..so that is close.
I have a list of things that I am attempting to grow here in my blog (see signature and then go to food list)..
not all have been terribly successful but you could find things that you might not have thought of trying.
also I believe if i lived in your area I would be using some sort of drip irrigation, maybe fed by rainbarrels..and then hoop houses or other types of sun traps to be able to extend the growing season..
I also would include rocks near the plants to hold heat and a rotting log or two to hold the moisture and protect the plants..I'd also be using windbreaks I believe to cut any wind and protect the young plants..
I found that any of my fruit trees and shrubs that faced the sun without protection did suffer far worst frost than those that were in the early shade..so that might be something to think of as well
Brenda Groth wrote:i too have poplar forests here..do you have room for canadian hemlocks as a windbreak? I'm sure they would grow there, or maybe black spruce, as they both like cold and damp..the hemlocks grow faster than the spruce, but both can be dug up from a woodsy damp area if they are spaced too closely (some will die anyway)..i have gone into swamps and dug both successfully and transplanted them when they were very small, see the front yard in my blog signature..those were all dug and replanted from the woods.
your aspens will make good nurse trees for your other plants to grow by, do you also have tag alders? you can plant some of your hardier fruit trees in the protection of either one of those..i had an apple grow right out of a clump of alders...it is east of my pond. I cut out the alders but they are growing back..but the apple tree is doing very well.
I can grow jerusalem artichokes quite well here, they make a quick summer fodder and lower screen.
Cory Arsenault wrote:I'm in Canada and here are a few things that grow in the wild, or perennially in my area which I believe is zone 5:
fruit trees: apple, peach, plum, cherry, crabapple
fiddleheads (ostrich fern sprouts)
wild garlic/leeks (Allium tricoccum)
Domesticated versions of these may be able to grow as well and I understand there is a type of "arctic kiwi" that may grow also.
Cory Arsenault wrote:Well, the most northernly parts of Canada include the arctic so I don't imagine there's many places harder to grow than that! lol
I honestly think in environments like yours and parts of Canada you can't get around using greenhouses and other such techniques like starting indoors. I'd look into the techniques that Sep Holzer uses to grow lemons in an alpine environment (sun traps, heat sink rocks, elevating the raised beds, encouraging cold air to "flow away"). Can you build some large ponds to act as a heat sink?
Can you grow maples to produce syrup? I understand that you can also make syrup from willow and birch trees.
Unfortunately I don't have any experience with hazelnuts to answer any questions. It is a bush so I would imagine that it is adapted for living under the canopy of other trees.
What is your soil like around there? One of the problems outside of the most southernly parts of Canada is that the soil is often very poor and acidic.
Would not even Canadian native fruit trees like Macintosh apples grow in your area? From my experience my apple trees don't bud until late May as well. Our last frost date traditionally is May 21st (Queen Victoria day).
What about potatoes?
Victor Johanson wrote:McIntosh may be hardy enough, but it is certainly not early enough. Shoot for a summer apple, like Yellow Transparent or Lodi or Summerred. There are good Canadian cultivars that are both early and hardy. Some of the old Michurin cultivars from Russia may also work. Take a look at this Finnish nursery; maybe they'll ship to you:
They have lots of stuff you might want to try, and in an interview, the proprietor stated that he had obtained varieties which another nursery used to import to Iceland:
Blomqvist has also written some books which may be of interest if you can understand the language; they're listed on the website under Books.
Cory Arsenault wrote:Our first frost tends to be at the end of September, early October.
From my observations, Macintosh apple trees will bud in the late May early June and the apples will be ready by mid-late August.
Paulo Bessa wrote:Victor, you just went straight to the point. The ones in Finland should be interesting to try, especially the most cold hardy ones and the early ones, if they wait the flower bud until June.
What about pears and some kind of nuts: do you know of anything?
Chestnuts? Hazelnuts? Korean pines perhaps?
Mona Casselman wrote:Leaping into the conversation-
I also live in Alaska, further south on the Kenai Peninsula, and in the mountains. Moose Pass. Windy, rocky, sandy soil, lots of rain in summer, unpredictable winters varying from ice-rain-snow to craploads of snow (15 ft last year). I have been wrestling with my growing conditions for 10 yrs. Before that, 13 years in North Pole/Fairbanks. Anyway, I would suggest adding comfrey to your garden. Does very well here, not edible but grows like crazy and makes great compost. Deep-rooted, pulls up nutrients, loosens soil. Woven windbreaks (wattle fences) can help temporarily while you are growing something more permanent.
Raised beds and rocks help me, too. Perennials are what I keep working toward. Shade cloth can be helpful to keep the annuals from bolting and going to seed. Give them some artificial night.
I am totally interested in what you are learning in Iceland AND Fairbanks!
Paulo Bessa wrote:Do you suggest specific varieties of squash, pumpkins, tomatoes and beans, to grow?
Siberia and Siberian: There seems to be a lot of confusion out there about these two tomatoes since their names are so similar. Since these are 2 different cultivars, let's try to clear up some of that confusion.
Siberia: From Russia, this famous cold weather variety can produce fruit in temperatures as low as 38 degrees (Leon: that's about 3C!!!), and in 48 to 55 days. A compact, bush variety that only grows 2 to 3 feet, it is wind resistant, cold resistant, and produces 2 to 3 ounce red fruit in clusters. Pleasant tasting, but reportedly not as delicious as the Siberian. Only requires a small growing area. Ideal for growing in containers or pots.
Siberian: The Siberian is also from Russia, and also tolerates the cold well, but not as well as the Siberia Tomato above. This compact, bush determinate produces slightly larger, better tasting, 3 to 5 ounce red fruits in 55 to 60 days. Can also be grown in containers or large pots.