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Encourage Broodiness.... later?

 
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I have 2 of my black australorps who seem to be going broody. Always on the nest, grumpy when I take the eggs, etc. I have been taking all eggs except a fake egg out of each nest, for probably the last week or so.

I would like to encourage the hens to be broody, but not yet. The first reason is that I feel like it is too cold still for my USDA zone 5 (maybe not?). And secondly I don't have a separate spot setup for them to hatch out away from the main flock.

Do I have any options? Can I delay this a little? Or are my only options to skip this year or rush to build something?

Also, I have only ever hatched eggs from an incubator, so any beginner advice on the process would be appreciated.
 
pollinator
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I keep  australorps and astrawhites.   I find astralorps are almost always broody.
The astrawhites, ( astralorp/leghorn cross) are not nearly as broody.
Just keep taking the eggs till you are ready. Be advised you will have to separate the brooding hen when you want her to incubate because all the others tend to nearly shut down production when she is sitting. At least mine do. She will do a great job on her own incubating the eggs and raising the chicks.
 
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I can't speak for other breeds, but my "mystery breed" hen goes broody every spring like clockwork. If yours are anything like mine, they'll stay broody as long as they aren't forced off the nest. I think my hen's record so far is a little over 3 months, back when I thought she would break out of it on her own.

I have no idea how that long broodiness might effect their ability to raise the chicks. I haven't been in a position to let her hatch eggs yet. I do know that she'll refuse to leave the nest for things like food and water, so I have to keep an eye on her condition.

The last couple years I've been doing "practice runs" by letting her sit on a nest of fake eggs long enough that, if they'd been real, they would've hatched. Mine hates being moved, and hates being alone even more, so a separate hatching area won't work for her. I have a wire cage that I can remove the bottom from and set over her to keep the others away. I leave the small door at one end of the cage open. That lets her get out if she wants to, but is easy for her to defend if the others get nosy. She's always in one corner of the coop, so she's pretty protected anyway. If yours chooses a spot outside then you might need something safer. I also hang dishes for food and water, so she can reach them without having to get up.

For the fake eggs, they don't have to be the fancy ceramic kind. My little broody hen usually has an interesting mix of fake egg types. 3 ceramic eggs, 6 plastic Easter eggs, and a walnut!
(I have no idea where she keeps finding the walnuts. But she gets one every single time!)
 
Matt McSpadden
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Thanks for the replies. I'm less worried now that I might have missed the broodinesss window. I'll see if I can post here when I get a separate area setup, and also when/if my hens successfully hatch out some babies.
 
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The "setting" area doesn't need to be that fancy, it's the "brooding" area which is critical on my farm.
Setting: the biggest issue is other hen's sneaking in and adding eggs which then don't have the same hatch date and you risk having too large a clutch for anything to hatch as some eggs get cold. If you can't prevent this, I would at least mark the eggs (I used a black grease pencil) so I can quickly sort out new eggs and remove them. This is a big issue with my Muscovy, so I use  salvaged 8 panel dog-run fencing with a roof added and baby bumpers on the bottom foot. I'd like to upgrade to hardware cloth covering the whole thing, but so far it's worked. There's enough room for a nest box, feed and water and if the fencing's at least 42" tall, they're not bad for servicing. I've used large plastic dog kennels for chickens, but sweating is an issue and I prefer the fencing.
Brooding: Chicks are *tiny* and are at risk from everything until they grow a little. On the other hand, mom's have a *strong* inclination to move them off the nest as soon as she feels enough have hatched. I mostly use portable shelters, so I have a too small fleet of 4x8' bottomless mini-hoops that I try to move mom and chicks to. This way I don't have to worry about other hens interfering with the bonding process or swiping all the baby feed.

I *totally* support the "don't let them set until all the infrastructure's ready. Infrastructure I was promised last year didn't materialize and I had to farm out early care to a friend. She had a fairly safe spot and *loves* watching moms and chicks, but didn't have room once they were 6 weeks old. I didn't have a safe enough spot for 0 to 4 week olds due to how small they are. By the time the first batch was 6 weeks, I had a second batch for her. I felt terribly guilty, but she insisted she absolutely adored having the extra baby-watching time.
 
Matt McSpadden
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As someone who hates visiting forums and finding a post with no ending to the story... I thought I should reply with what happened.

I continued doing what I was doing. I would remove all but the single fake egg from the nest every day. I ended up with 6-7 broody hens by the time I was able to get things ready about 3 weeks later. I do not necessarily recommend that amount of time, but my black australorps seem to be dealing well. As of this post I have 5 hens who seem to be sticking with it who are 3 days into the 21 day cycle. All other chickens were moved to the outdoor pen and any who seemed broody before the move do not seem to be now. I started a new topic to ask about 5 broody hens together, and probably chronicle the journey a bit. That post is here.
 
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