What to do with excavated soil from ponds

Hi everyone,

I am starting the implementation of a project over 6 hectares (15 acres) in cool temperate climate (Cfb).
There are several swales and connected ponds, there will be 6 ponds and a dam. For now we are planning on digging 2 ponds and the dam.
The ponds are around 450 square meters in surface and the depth may vary up to 2 meters.

Any regenerative/constructive ideas about what to do with the excavated soil from the ponds we will dig ?

Thanks for your inputs.

If you could describe or sketch out a rough idea of your site's topography and features, that would help.

I'm always looking for dirt/soil/gravel at my high water table, zero-topography site. My new neighbour has expressed an interest in having a pond dug, so I've been thinking of ways to move the excavated material to my location.

I wouldn't have it hauled away.. you will probably find use for it at some point.

On a small scale, I'd use it to fill in the holes my chickens like to scratch in the field :), but at that scale, I'd suggest maybe

- Placing it around some of the ponds for more depth?
- Filling in a low spot on the land?
- Cover for Hugelkultur mound?

In our recent - smaller - pond project the excavator spread the soil in a layer about 6” deep in an apron on the nearby fields. 9 months later you can’t tell, bar a few rocks. The grass has grown up through and filled in the gaps. I think it needs a walk around with a bucket to pick up stones before running the mower over it again at the end of autumn.

Exciting project Louis!
I'm hoping to dig a pond sometime, but it's been in the planning stage for 14 years! What's your subsoil like? generally you would separate the subsoil (which is usually less fertile) and the topsoil and treat them differently, ideally burying the subsoil underneath the top soil as you go - this may mean scraping back topsoil from other areas so as not to bury it.
I saw an interesting video the other day where Andrew Williams was using the sub soil (his was clay) as a mulch to a newly planted willow hedge which I though was genius - eventually this will be reclaimed into topsoil again, but would stop grass and weeds germinating in competition to the new hedge.  If you have any new tree planting to do this may be worth a try.

I agree with what Michael Helmersson wrote and up it one more - some information about the type of soil you have and it's depth in the areas you're planning on digging would be a help. Most areas of my farm are 1/2"  of topsoil over clay rock subsoil!  I'm making a lot of compost for raised beds I'm building which are in a sense, wood-clad hugels. The beds that I added layers of this clay subsoil to held water better than the compost only ones. If my soil was sandy, the reverse may have been the case.

I also second the idea of choosing some places where hugel beds would be useful as they are good for holding water in the soil, assuming you have access to punky wood or even old heat-treated, non-painted packing skids to use as the "wood" core of the hugel.  Hugels are a another great way to turn crappy soil into good soil. People who've been able to make really high ones (7') in places with climates suitable for that, have found that it requires no added water at all. Some climates, seem to do better with the hugel partially buried in the ground which is what I'm trying this year. I don't have suitable spots for 7' high ones, but since I know that buried wood has helped several trees and gardens hold moisture better, I'm trying the compromise. Techniques like Hugelkultur arose based on climate and soil, so it makes sense to me that they may benefit from adaptations to specific micro-climates.

Hey everyone,
thanks for your feedbacks.

Here's a link where you can see an abstract of the project (translated to EN): https://www-terrepermaculture-com.translate.goog/projets/une-ferme-en-permaculture-sur-6-hectares-dans-le-bearn/?_x_tr_sl=fr&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=fr&_x_tr_pto=nui,elem

A manual soil test shows that the soil is more in the silty clay class. Its appearance, 10 cm below the surface, is light brown, even gray. The significant presence of clay makes the soil heavy, hydromorphic, and therefore conducive to the development of anaerobic microbiology.

Here's a list of bioindicator plants found on the property:
Lolium perenne
Festuca pratensis
Taraxacum officinale
Bryophyta sp.
Plantago major
Potentilla reptans
Glechoma hederacea
Bellis perennis
Ranunculus repens
Trifolium repens
Juncus effusus
Rumex obtusifolius

I hope it helps you see the context.

Given the soil and climate context I have provided, do you have more ideas, suggestions, about what to do with the excavated earth ?

Thanks

In a word: Earthworks! :D

First, check out Paul's thread on tefa (textured earth, food all year).  Now, depending on how much material you have, here are some ideas in no particular order:

Ideas on what to do with excavated soil:

1) All topsoil is super precious!  Topsoil must be saved and used for growies, stabilizing plants which prevent erosion, mulch producers, etc.  So what about all that subsoil?

2) Terracing - To establish a productive, level growing site.  Terraces help keep nutrients from washing away and allow for easier travels.

3) Swales - For establishing trees; slowing/spreading/sinking of water; mulch trap.

4) Bunds
(a) For channeling water to a desired area (trees, ponds, swale).
(b) For deflecting water away from undesirable areas (house, building, muddy trails, underground cellar).
(c) Net and pan systems for drought proofing.

5) Berms
(a) Blocking harsh winds; channeling soothing winds.  Windbreaks.
(b) Fire protection/deflection.
(c) Sun trap for microclimate.
(d) Blocking undesirable viewscapes.
(e) Creating new, planted viewscapes.
(f) Access - Leveled ridges are ideal for roads and paths.
(g) Blocking sound (like they do in airports)

6) Hügelkultur.

7) Raised beds - Mounds in wet tropics or for areas or plants requiring extra drainage.  Conversely, as a perimeter around growies in dry areas to keep water from leaving.

8) Structures - U-house / cellar / wofati / emergency weather or animal shelters.

9) Dams & ponds - All sorts of types: saddle, contour, etc.  In flat areas, consider "turkey nest" ponds.

10) Chinampa - Building out the earth/water harmonic for productive growing.

Thanks George for your in-detail response.
Lots of good ideas, I have to think about them !