Yeah, a lot of what I do is made possible by the front blade and my rear ballast. In the first picture you can see my homemade wheel weights, 125 lbs of lead on each tire. Then in the second and third pictures you can see a set of stock wheel weights bolted on top of my homemade weights, another 35 lbs per side. The tires are also filled with RV antifreeze, probably 40 lbs in each rear tire and 10 lbs in each front tire. The there is me, 220 lbs. You can certainly tell the difference in traction when the kids are driving! The full tote and trailer combined are close to 2500 lbs. It has no problem pulling them around, but I’d never try a hill as the tractor starts to slide with heavier loads. I didn’t mention all of the weight earlier because it would break a lawn tractor. The engines are plenty strong, but the frames, transmissions, and rear axels are not up to the task. Use a yard cart and keep the weight under 200 lbs or so and a lawn tractor should do just fine.
Kenneth Elwell wrote:Another bit about capacity, is weight. It helps with traction, as with wheel weights or loaded tires; and also with leverage, as with suitcase weights, or an implement on the front/rear.
Notice Gary's tractor in the photos has the "snowplow" on in the summer... that's counterbalancing some of the tongue weight of the trailer.
I keep my rototiller on my small tractor all summer, to get the full use out of my loader's capacity, plus some extra traction (some folks have a dedicated "weight box"). My big tractor has loaded tires, and is quite capable... but I had to put the backhoe back on this spring after doing endos trying to move stuff I placed with the backhoe ON last fall!