Fixing sizing mistakes, after the fabric is cut

Since winter has fewer chores, I like spending some time sewing new clothes. This year is unique since I am parallel sewing with my oldest daughter. Anita wants to learn how to sow and mend, and I am just thrilled to pass a skill down to the next generation.
We decided to sew a nightgown each, and we picked the folkwear 226 princess slip pattern for it.
We both picked linen, since the summers here are very hot, and linen stays cool during heat. I decided of white and my daughter on black.
We both decided we wanted it floor length and without a ruffle, since that’s just not practical for sleep.
I did make a big mistake though. When I cut the pattern for my dress, I used my standard size, instead of comparing their measurements with my own. We realized it before we cut my daughters fabric, so hers fit, but my nightgown are going to be tight over my big b… unless I fix the mistake.
So now I am thinking 🤔 over where it will be the best place to add a panel. I have two places in mind. In the back, I can add it to the back panels or I can add it to the side panels.
What do you think? I think I am going to sleep on it, before I do it. I also want to see if I have enough fabric to recut either the back or the side panels, instead of adding in another panel. So, I am brain storming so far.
All that aside, I really love how it looks.

My Ulla, I've got an "upper B" and a "lower B", but assuming your mannequin is set for your size, I'm guessing the issue is the lower one?

If you've got enough fabric, designing and cutting new back panels might give you the best over-all fit - you'd get the extra fabric exactly where you need it. However, that would also be possible by making a new panel to inset in the center back area.

However, you say you're going  floor length, but do you feel you'll have enough room at the bottom for walking? Do you ever have to climb stairs at night? One of the reasons for the ruffle is to give that extra step length. If you think it's marginal, not stitching the side seams all the way to the bottom would be one solution.

I'm really glad you're daughter's learning from you! Starting with a project like this is a great way to learn some skills without the added stress of needing to wear it in public!

Hmm. If Jay's idea of putting in new panels is an option, that's what if do. If not... I think on the sides would likely draw less attention to the modifications.

Jay Angler wrote:My Ulla, I've got an "upper B" and a "lower B", but assuming your mannequin is set for your size, I'm guessing the issue is the lower one?

If you've got enough fabric, designing and cutting new back panels might give you the best over-all fit - you'd get the extra fabric exactly where you need it. However, that would also be possible by making a new panel to inset in the center back area.

However, you say you're going  floor length, but do you feel you'll have enough room at the bottom for walking? Do you ever have to climb stairs at night? One of the reasons for the ruffle is to give that extra step length. If you think it's marginal, not stitching the side seams all the way to the bottom would be one solution.

I'm really glad you're daughter's learning from you! Starting with a project like this is a great way to learn some skills without the added stress of needing to wear it in public!

Thank you for answer, and yes it’s the lower B 😂 .
I don’t think I can add to the middle of the back, since that’s where a zipper or buttons are going to go, but I agree that cutting new back panels would be the best, if I have enough fabric.
Btw, I haven’t decided about buttons or zipper yet, but know that I need to soon.
Though, if I take into account needing more room for walking, then a long triangular piece, added to the sides, probably a better solution.
I think I am going to stitch it together lightly, so I can try it on and see if I need more leg room too. Trying it on, will also tell me, just how see-threw it is. This fabric are turning out a little thinner than I originally thought it would be.

As for my daughter. I am very happy that she wants to learn. I also did pick a nightgown, for exactly the reason you wrote, that it’s not something she has to wear in permies, so less stressful to make. She has worn the cloth I make for years, and we did try sewing together a few years back too. Then I just made the mistake of not sewing parallel. It’s a lot easier for her to learn it, if she can see me doing it first, and then try and repeat what I did. Last time, I just tried to explain it to her, and she just didn’t get it. This also means, that she will have made her gown all by herself, which is hopefully a confidence builder.

Ulla Bisgaard wrote:I don’t think I can add to the middle of the back, since that’s where a zipper or buttons are going to go, but I agree that cutting new back panels would be the best, if I have enough fabric.
Btw, I haven’t decided about buttons or zipper yet, but know that I need to soon.

Have you considered putting the zipper/ buttons in the side seam? That's not so common nowadays, but my Mom had some dresses built that way.

Though, if I take into account needing more room for walking, then a long triangular piece, added to the sides, probably a better solution.
I think I am going to stitch it together lightly, so I can try it on and see if I need more leg room too. Trying it on, will also tell me, just how see-threw it is. This fabric are turning out a little thinner than I originally thought it would be.

I think basting it together is a great idea. I think it might narrow down which option is best. I'm not sure how to handle the see-through bit, other that adding "lining" to critical areas, such as the front of the bodice from the top to just below the crotch.

It’s a lot easier for her to learn it, if she can see me doing it first, and then try and repeat what I did. Last time, I just tried to explain it to her, and she just didn’t get it. This also means, that she will have made her gown all by herself, which is hopefully a confidence builder.

Yes to both of those! However, she's also seeing how you've encountered a problem and are problem-solving to find the best solution out of several options. That's very important modeling also! I've met too many people who give up when it isn't exactly as they'd pictured it instead of choosing to just go ahead and form a new picture in their head that gets the job done and might actually turn out better than the original thought!

Ulla, I think you're doing beautifully with your daughter. As far as buttons vs zippers, a zipper is easier to do up, but at least for me, I'd want a panel between my skin and the zipper, or it would make me itch, something fierce, lol. Simply pinned, it doesn't look like you'd need very big panels, at all - just a narrow strip.

I sleep on my back and wouldn't want buttons or a zipper under me. Might be a thought worth considering.
If it were me, I'd put a panel in the back, and the fastenings in the front, easier to get on and off.

I have decided to cut two new back panels. I think that will give the best look. As for the closure, I am keeping it in the back, since I am a side sleeper.  As for the closure itself. I have decided to use buttons if I can find some I like, and ribbons if I can’t.
I checked the bottom, and it’s more than wide enough to walk, even without the ruffle, so that’s good to go too.
I will keep you posted, as the project moves on.

Ulla Bisgaard wrote:

Jay Angler wrote:My Ulla, I've got an "upper B" and a "lower B", but assuming your mannequin is set for your size, I'm guessing the issue is the lower one?

If you've got enough fabric, designing and cutting new back panels might give you the best over-all fit - you'd get the extra fabric exactly where you need it. However, that would also be possible by making a new panel to inset in the center back area.

However, you say you're going  floor length, but do you feel you'll have enough room at the bottom for walking? Do you ever have to climb stairs at night? One of the reasons for the ruffle is to give that extra step length. If you think it's marginal, not stitching the side seams all the way to the bottom would be one solution.

I'm really glad you're daughter's learning from you! Starting with a project like this is a great way to learn some skills without the added stress of needing to wear it in public!

Thank you for answer, and yes it’s the lower B 😂 .
I don’t think I can add to the middle of the back, since that’s where a zipper or buttons are going to go, but I agree that cutting new back panels would be the best, if I have enough fabric.
Btw, I haven’t decided about buttons or zipper yet, but know that I need to soon.
Though, if I take into account needing more room for walking, then a long triangular piece, added to the sides, probably a better solution.
I think I am going to stitch it together lightly, so I can try it on and see if I need more leg room too. Trying it on, will also tell me, just how see-threw it is. This fabric are turning out a little thinner than I originally thought it would be.

As for my daughter. I am very happy that she wants to learn. I also did pick a nightgown, for exactly the reason you wrote, that it’s not something she has to wear in permies, so less stressful to make. She has worn the cloth I make for years, and we did try sewing together a few years back too. Then I just made the mistake of not sewing parallel. It’s a lot easier for her to learn it, if she can see me doing it first, and then try and repeat what I did. Last time, I just tried to explain it to her, and she just didn’t get it. This also means, that she will have made her gown all by herself, which is hopefully a confidence builder.

If it's your lower bottom I'd say add triangular godets on the side seams starting about midway up the waist so you get some flare at the hips but in a flattering shape.

Rebecca Cellabee wrote:


If it's your lower bottom I'd say add triangular godets on the side seams starting about midway up the waist so you get some flare at the hips but in a flattering shape.

This would be my preference as well... it coincide with the way the shift/chemise was sewn for probably hundreds of years (which tells you how useful a garment it was).
http://yesterdaysthimble.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/Shift-w-274x300.jpg

Melissa Taibi wrote:

Rebecca Cellabee wrote:


If it's your lower bottom I'd say add triangular godets on the side seams starting about midway up the waist so you get some flare at the hips but in a flattering shape.

This would be my preference as well... it coincide with the way the shift/chemise was sewn for probably hundreds of years (which tells you how useful a garment it was).
http://yesterdaysthimble.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/Shift-w-274x300.jpg

That’s what I have done before also. I have sewn many shifts over the years. I think I have enough fabric though, that I can cut two new side back panels, so that’s what I am going to do. It will look better, than if I add godets to the side.

It's always a good idea to sleep on it. Fresh eyes and all that.
When I get into a complicated project, I stop for the day after the 3rd gaff.

As for correcting yours--how much seam allowance are you giving yourself? It looks generous. Is there enough wiggle there if you narrowed the allowance?
If not, then adding an extra narrow panel on each side (my preference would be back panel toward armpit), would work and not be noticeable. You may even prefer the architecture of this alteration.
I am looking forward to seeing the finished product!

Cheers!

~Chaya

I love godets and use them when upcycling clothes to fit my generous rear! And they are definitely part of the design of historical shift dresses, made of rectangles and triangles.

I've had problems in the past with them adding too much volume at the hem and not enough at the hips. Especially for a nightgown, I'd be forever getting tangled up in the extra wide skirts! Depending how many inches needed adding, I've found I need to start them much higher than I expect. I'm making two currently unwearable shirts into one bigger shirt for my next project and will have to start the back godet right under the yoke!

If there's enough fabric to cut a new panel with a little extra added, that may work better for this style.  

I made several dresses using a princess-line pattern. On one of those dresses I later decided I wanted it wider. I made all the 'skirt' part (from the waist down) wider by adding long narrow triangles in each seam between the pannels. Maybe you could do that too? ((if you like it)
If a photo is needed to make it clear I can add that (later)

You say you want buttons or a zipper in the nightgown. I don't know about your sleeping position. The only place I can have buttons in a nightgown is in the front, because I sleep on my back or my side. A zipper I would not want to have in a nightgown. The feeling of a zipper right to the skin isn't nice (as someone else said too).