I choose...to be the best me I can be, to be the strongest me I can be, to learn the most I can. I don't know what comes next. But I'm gonna go into it balls to the walls, flames in my hair, and full speed ahead.
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Dan Fish wrote:It's not the 50s anymore! No more backhanding!!
Hey so I am no expert but I just planted my garlic 3 weeks ago. I just broke up the bulb into cloves and planted them all an inch or two down and about 10" apart from each other. The spacing was kind of a "I have this many plants and this much space" decision but I have grown garlic before even closer than that and it came out good. I planted them in a bed that I grew veggies in this spring, without any more amendments or fertilizer. I did not mulch yet but I will when it gets colder. They are popping up and they look great!
I choose...to be the best me I can be, to be the strongest me I can be, to learn the most I can. I don't know what comes next. But I'm gonna go into it balls to the walls, flames in my hair, and full speed ahead.
Matt McSpadden wrote:Hi Susan,
I'm not a garlic expert, but I have grown my own garlic for about 4 years now.
It is a heavy feeder, so I would recommend adding some compost to the top, like was suggested already... but it's not a necessity. It will still grow fine, just maybe a bit smaller.
No need to worry about fungi... if you are working on your soil, it's already there.
Never heard of the rubbing alcohol one, but probably it was meant to kill any bad microbes on the outside first... which shouldn't be needed if you buy from a reputable source (or save your own).
Just plant it. In my USDA zone, it's more like 4-6 inches down... but whatever is right for your area :)
I choose...to be the best me I can be, to be the strongest me I can be, to learn the most I can. I don't know what comes next. But I'm gonna go into it balls to the walls, flames in my hair, and full speed ahead.
Jay Angler wrote:More or less what Dan said! I did a mixed bed of cold tolerant veggies just to hold and protect the soil from our rain. The outside row (where it would end up driest in the late spring, I put a row of garlic cloves. I plant enough that if they do great, I have garlic to give/trade. If they don't do quite so well, I use it all myself.
My biggest issue isn't the soil, it's the fact that some blankety blank bird seems to think the little dry bit is edible and keeps pulling the cloves out, so that's something I'd watch for.
I have heard that garlic's considered a heavy feeder, so putting it in soil with a little top-dress of finished compost wouldn't hurt it. That said, I do "cool" compost because anything remotely like hot compost just doesn't happen in my climate. I trust to the worms to turn it into something that will help plants.
So yes - quit fretting and shove the little guys into the ground. 'Perfect is the enemy of good enough!'
I choose...to be the best me I can be, to be the strongest me I can be, to learn the most I can. I don't know what comes next. But I'm gonna go into it balls to the walls, flames in my hair, and full speed ahead.
This is all just my opinion based on a flawed memory
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Ben Zumeta wrote:Shredded leaves will make an excellent mulch. I’d put down 4”, after planting bulbs. I plant garlic 6” apart on diagonal zigzag rows. I plant them 1.5-2x their length deep (2-4” down). Wider spacing has not seemed to help get them bigger, and I get some as big as my fist. I would not dip them in rubbing alcohol under any circumstances. If I were that worried about disease, I’d find another source. I use hardneck varieties (which you will need for your cold climate) sourced from nearby sellers (Siskiyou Seeds here). I’d either find one in your region or buy the largest cloved/bulbed organic hardneck available at a farmers market. Best of luck, and it is good to know when we don’t know!
“When you get your bachelor’s degree, you think you know it all. By the time you get your master’s, you realize you know nothing. Getting a PhD entails realizing nobody knows anything.” - My Dad’s PhD advisor probably quoting someone else.
I choose...to be the best me I can be, to be the strongest me I can be, to learn the most I can. I don't know what comes next. But I'm gonna go into it balls to the walls, flames in my hair, and full speed ahead.
Zone 6, 45 inches precipitation, hard clay soil
I choose...to be the best me I can be, to be the strongest me I can be, to learn the most I can. I don't know what comes next. But I'm gonna go into it balls to the walls, flames in my hair, and full speed ahead.
I choose...to be the best me I can be, to be the strongest me I can be, to learn the most I can. I don't know what comes next. But I'm gonna go into it balls to the walls, flames in my hair, and full speed ahead.
Zone 6, 45 inches precipitation, hard clay soil
May Lotito wrote:I read that Helen's book is more for the experienced gardeners and farmers so a beginner can find the content quite overwhelming. The book " soil science for gardeners" by Robert Pavlis is an easier ready and covers all aspects you need to know about the soil. In the book he also lists some fad products and practices that are unnecessary. As for "no dig", I am taking a middle ground of "minimal disturbance" rather than adhere to it like a doctrine. Whenever opening up the ground is required, try adding organic matters as well so that the end result will be better soil.
I choose...to be the best me I can be, to be the strongest me I can be, to learn the most I can. I don't know what comes next. But I'm gonna go into it balls to the walls, flames in my hair, and full speed ahead.
To do a great right, do a little wrong - shakespeare. twisted little ad:
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