I live in a passive solar heated house, and have lived in similar houses for the past 25+ years. This is a cold climate, 10,500 feet high, but not as far north as Ohio. To give some benchmarks to compare winters, our
pond skating season is about 6 to 8 weeks long, and pipes have to be about 3 feet deep to reliably prevent freezing.
None of the passive solar houses I've lived in have had any method to move heated mass into the interior of the house in the evenings. In my current house, the main methods are:
• The walls are made of rammed earth, mostly 1.5 feet thick, which is the main heat storage. The external walls have 4 inches of styrofoam embedded in them.
• We design the houses so the rooms you want to have warm are along the south side, and the middle and north side are the "thermal buffer zone": corridor, dry composting toilet, stairwell, storerooms. The bedrooms, kitchen, bathing bathroom and living room are on the south side.
• In my current house and one of the houses I previously lived in, we attach a plastic
greenhouse sheet on a frame on the south side of the house from October to May, and remove the plastic for the summer. It's UV-resistant
greenhouse film, lasts a good 5 to 7 years, and end up getting holes and tears due to physical damage, not UV breakdown. It allows me to have herbs and leafy greens and flowers in winter, and it pumps hot air into the house during sunny days, especially when somebody is home and can keep all the doors and windows open between the greenhouse and the house.
• Trombe walls work in my current house upstairs, and in some of the buildings I worked in previously. In my house, the greenhouse is only on the ground floor, so the upstairs bedrooms have half trombe walls. These are 6-inch thick concrete walls about 6 or 8 inches inside of the floor-to-ceiling windows. I like half-trombe walls up to only 3 or 4 feet high, so you get a direct view out the upper half of the window. Especially in winter, I use white woolen curtains (very low tech: I bough a bolt of woven white wool cloth and made simple long curtains with it), and I open them int eh daytime, and close them for the night. The trombe wall is painted black on the south (exterior-facing) side, of course, so it gets pretty toasty, and then the wool curtain hangs over the whole window, between the wall and the window.
• I'll admit, the house gets chilly on some Jan or Feb nights, and I've thought of putting a black container of water in the window and using it as a
hot water bottle in the evenings. I'd prefer to have something small enough to hoist around, and, say, stick under the desk for my feet while I work. Currently I have 1 square meter of floor heating (400W) in the living room that we use from late Dec to early Feb, and I preheat the bed with an electric blanket (130W) before getting in bed for roughly the same season. But I have single glazing in the bedroom (the half-trombe-wall big window) so a good double glazed window would probably make that almost unnecessary.
A decent passive solar heated house shouldn't need too much shifting thermal mass around. In the US, plumbing is high quality so I think water with automated circling on a timer would be good. Where I live in India I don't want unnecessary plumbing in my earthen house, because plumbing is dodgy at best.