1890S Pretty Housemaid Corded Corset - historybounding for modern farmlife

another construction video

Here's my guess on how to adjust the pattern.
I've got to add 15" around the bust and about the same around the waist.  

The big problem is the place where the upright panels meet the hip panels.  I need to keep the angle right for that to work.  

I sewed it up out of some simple calico cloth.  I don't have any eyelets or busk yet, so I used a zipper for the busk and put a two-inch strip of fabric between the back panels since I want a 2-inch lacing gap.  

The results were disappointing.  In the extreme.

Part of the problem is that the mockup has no verticle support so it's not good for judging how things fit.  a lot of the problem is I have trouble with the vertical measurements on myself, I don't know enough about corsets to know where the top and bottom are supposed to sit, my waist isn't my narrowest place, so the corset tried to ride up to my underbust, putting pressure at my underbust, triggers my quick-eject button, and I'm getting frustrated.  

The bust was okay.  The hips were okay.  The problem seems to be there isn't enough distance between them and the shape is wrong.

I haven't a clue how to fix it.  

Ok! This is just another uneducated sewist's thoughts: first, I'd figure out where the extra length needs to be - at the waist? Above it? Below it? Some combination? Then I'd look for, how much length needs to be added & mark those things directly onto the muslin, all the way around.

I'm not sure if I'll communicate this well, but to add the length, once the above determinations are figured/educated-guessed/wild-guessed, I'd rip out the stitching, match the muslin pieces up to the pattern pieces, and make the same marks on the pattern pieces. Then, I'd cut the pattern pieces, one at a time, lay them on another piece of paper, the correct distance to add the needed length, tape them in place, and trace a new piece,  label and cut it, and save the old pieces. It seems like a lot of work, but I think doing it that way will allow you to back the process up, so your not starting from scratch, in case the next iteration still isn't right.

I truly believe you can do this!

r ranson wrote:

The bust was okay.  The hips were okay.  The problem seems to be there isn't enough distance between them and the shape is wrong.

I've never sewn one of these. Have you considered adding a 2" strip of fabric between the "bust" section and the "hip" section at the seam that's there? This would just be a test to gather information - not a permanent feature.

Of course, it does mean removing the zipper. I'd consider replacing it with buttons and loops in the short term so you can fiddle with the sizing of things without the zip being in the way - you're not looking for support at this stage, just getting the shape and size correct.

The big problem: I can't understand where the waist is "supposed to be" on this pattern.  So I don't have a place to begin the alterations.  I can see where it should be on me, but without understanding where it is on the pattern, I'm lost!

I got to take a day off from this project to let my mind calm a bit.  I'm just way too far beyond my skillset.  

Great job on adjusting for your circumference! As I understand it, you are making this as a support to your body. So, the shape of any particular time period is irrelevant. Therefore we are altering the corset to fit your body. With this in mind, we redo your measurements, then we can adjust your pattern to fit you.

Here in black are the standard measurement locations for a pattern.
In red are the vertical quadrant adjustment lines. Center back is also needed.


Here are the fictional measurement locations of a person with severe scoliosis. Note that the waist is at a severe angle. Adjust at the quadrant locations to match the body.


For each of the below, tie a piece of yarn or string around your torso. These strings should follow your measurements, not necessarily parallel to the floor. Write down your measurements, but keep each string in place.

Measurement    
1 bust
2 underbust
3 smallest measurement around your trunk below your bust, wherever this is
4 largest measurement of your hip area that is within your desired location of the corset
5 bottom of the corset

Now, take vertical measurements between each of these strings. How many measurements depends on how uneven your skeletal structure is. I suggest 4 quadrant measurements, front, back, and sides.

Now to adjust the pattern. We are now calling your smallest measurement below your bust the waistline. Perhaps your waistline is at an angle. Taper horizontal lines to match your measurements. In my scoliosis example, each piece will need to be drawn separately. Ie: left side front will look different than your right side front, etc.

Left side pattern pieces

Right side pattern pieces

Okay, done editing the above post. Pay no attention to the last duplicate pic, it's not supposed to be there. Unable to remove it.

Any further explanations necessary?

I'm missing something fundamental in my brain.  Like how I don't understand how vowels work is a big part of my dyslexia.  

So I'm going to pause and make a corset from a pattern with modern sizes and stuff.  https://permies.com/t/154982/sewing/fiber-arts/Laughing-Moon-corset-pattern-Dore

That should help me understand what it is I'm missing.  

It's interesting to see the threads on this topic!  Twenty years ago or so when we were involved in historical reenacting, I made myself stays -- not quite the same as a corset, but the same idea sort of -- and was surprised to find that they were, in my opinion, more comfortable and better support than a bra.  Maybe not quite as good in extremely hot weather, but the rest of the time, yes.  Don't know why I didn't think of making one or more for everyday wear.  But I do need back support...going to have to add this to my sewing list!

I have long hated by bras but "the girls" are big enough to need some support since I'd prefer to keep the "center dots" above my waist line.  I've tried just about every sports bra on the market and NONE of them let me run a sawzall without "the girls" complaining.  I've always been intrigued by the idea of wearing a corset instead.  It didn't seem that different than the longline bras I've tried.  Even ones that have shoulder straps don't seem to dig in like a modern bra (e.g. 17th century stays vs Victorian corsets)

As a backpacker, I'm familiar with the idea of resting the weight on my hips vs my shoulders for better body mechanics.  Corsets seem to do that, just for "the girls" in front instead of a pack on my back.

Oooh, I love this thread!  Years ago, I decided to "make" my wedding dress for our extremely frugal wedding. My challenge... I can barely sew.  I have curtains-level sewing skill.  I thought about how I could do it as easily as possible.  I can crochet, so that helped add a layer of design.

I started with a borrowed (already made) simple modern corset (very minimal boning; laces, but also a zipper; soft sort of construction, that type of thing) and made my own skirt to go with it for my wedding.  Then I found a cute pattern on Etsy for a crocheted bolero top, and made that to go over.  Now, my sewing skill being super minimal, I wasn't totally happy with my curved lines around my butt on my skirt, so I found a scarf, crocheted some edging on it to match the bolero and wore that around my waist.  All in all, it cost about $40 in materials and patterns. (Not counting the corset, which was actually borrowed from my best friend).  

What strikes me as really fascinating is the versatility of clothing with laces; how that clothing design can fit all sorts of shapes of people.  I'm tall and thin and have about a B-cup.  My best friend is 4 inches shorter than me, voluptuous and I'm guessing is well beyond a DD.  Yet we could wear the same corset!  On me there was, of course, not the definition between waist and bust, but that wasn't what I was going for.  I just like the look of that sort of strapless top, and I look awful in most strapless things, except corsets.

I'm quite happy with my own dimensions and know that being small chested has a ton of advantages.  Like the busty sister of my first boyfriend told me "At least you can ride a horse and not be punched in the chin by your boobs".  Which she had experienced, and the massive bruising that goes with it!  That was a revelation.  I finally "got" what corsets were really vital for,  functional bras before there were sports bras or super duper well made bras for busty women.  Being small chested this would have never occurred to me had it not been pointed out.