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Cleaning rubber residue

Ac Baker

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I have a problem with one of our Kilner glass fastening jars. The orange O-Ring has catastrophically degraded (possibly accelerated by the record-breaking 40 C heatwave we had three years ago here in England).

Despite the best efforts of three of us, we've not yet got the last of the nasty sticky orange gunk off the rim. Failed attempts include dishwashing, freezing, and wire wool.

Anyone reading got any experience of this problem? Any failed or successful removal methods to share?

Many thanks!

Image: Kilner glass top closure jar, with degraded orange goo around it, and new replacement O-Ring package

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Nancy Reading

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Hmm, wire wool would have been my last ditch effort. I'd have thought some sort of scraping would get most of it off. Could you try carefully scraping with a knife blade? It may be if you get the worst off, wire wool would take the last stuck bits.

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Anne Miller

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I would use baking soda aka bicarbonate (NaHCO3), here in the USA.

For many years I have used it as a scouring powder. It works ....

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Benjamin Dinkel

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Maybe try something like WD40 or orange oil?

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Ac Baker

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Thank you, all. We did try wire wool. The gummy residue will tend to stick to the wire wool, and be a new problem, we found ..

Of course, we want the jar to remain food safe, which rules out numerous options.

Baking soda sounds worth a try for sure!

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Jay Angler

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I have found that some rubbers are denatured by some fats. So I would try a firm fat like coconut oil or butter and smear it around the orange bits, working it into any crack between the glass and the stuck bits, and leave it for at least a day.

I've done this with veggie oils, but the process is messier. If you can tip the jar upside down onto a flat dish with oil in it, that might work better than the more solid oils, and it would be worth the mess if it works!

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Benjamin Dinkel

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Ac Baker wrote:
Of course, we want the jar to remain food safe, which rules out numerous options.

Which options are ruled out by that?
Orange oil is/ can be food safe and can be used to dissolve rubber.
WD40 (or a different synthetic oil) can be wiped up and disposed of. The jar won't be "unsafe" after washing.

But if "normal" fats work, like Jay suggests, that is a cheaper and safer route.

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Ac Baker

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I wouldn't use acetone on a food container, nor WD40: I also have a strong sense of taste, so that's a deterrent.

But orange oil & vegetable oil both sounds OK, and of course the latter much more affordable!

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Ela La Salle

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I had similar problem but with white rubber on same glass jar type you have. I used Goo Gone by placing jar upside down on a small glass plate filled with Goo Gone, let sit for few minutes, wiped off with paper towel. Repeated same for the lid. Washed the jar, put a new rubber on, and it's fine.
Goo Gone came in a box with other items I bought few years back at a yard sale. It turned out to be useful . Who knew

Tereza Okava

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orange oil is what first came to mind for me too. keep us posted about what you do and whether it works!!!

Kenneth Elwell

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Isopropyl alcohol might work, and not as objectionable as WD-40 or acetone (already mentioned) or naphtha - which works really well on rubber/rubber adhesives...
or
Ethyl alcohol (the edible/potable kind of alcohol) might also work, if a high-proof vodka or straight 190 proof "everclear" was used.

Edible oils might dissolve the residue, or will at least prevent loosened bits from re-adhering to the jar or your scraper tool. Orange/citrus oil always amazes me by how effective it is.

Something else sticky such as duct tape, packing tape, etc... might grab the residue more than it is held to the jar? Stick, peel, repeat... This often works when peeling a label leaves a residue, the label can be used to grab the residue, or a separate piece of tape does the trick. For this to work, I think you do have to try this before any of the "oily" methods.

I understand and respect the sensitivity/objection to using non-edible solvents, and I am certain that there are solutions mentioned here that are safe alternatives, in addition to using mechanical methods. I also believe that soaps and detergents can fully remove any residue (edible or not) from a non-porous surface such as glass or metal. I might wash twice, or use an intermediate solvent or degreaser, then wash.

Nails are sold by the pound, that makes sense.
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Ac Baker

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Ela La Salle wrote:I had similar problem but with white rubber on same glass jar type you have. I used Goo Gone by placing jar upside down on a small glass plate filled with Goo Gone, let sit for few minutes, wiped off with paper towel.

Good news, I set up a similar arrangement but with ordinary vegetable (brassica seed) oil. I got busy, so about six days later I check them (!) It's summer here, but the house wasn't particularly hot, maybe 25 C or under.

A little of the orange goo had 'floated off' in the oil.

The rest came away with very gentle scraping, and was no longer hugely gummy either.

Now, I guess shorter duration might have worked, but the indications I've seen suggest that a few days was probably needed. Anyhow, we're pleased: thank you all!

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Phil Stevens

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For what it's worth, WD-40 (and CRC 56 and other similar products) is fish oil. There's a scent added to make it less fishy, but apart from that it's pretty benign. As an all-purpose nonpolar solvent, it's pretty amazing.

Ac Baker

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Phil Stevens wrote:For what it's worth, WD-40 .. is fish oil.

As far as I can tell, the "active ingredient" of WD-40 - which stands for water displacement 40 - is a closely guarded secret, but it's a mineral and not an animal oil.

Also, the finished product reportedly has a different composition in the EU to comply with REACH legislation, than in the USA (Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals, since 2007).
WD-40 sold Australia is a third formulation.

Thank you all!

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Phil Stevens

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Ok, I stand corrected. What I recall is that the inventors of the stuff back in the '50s were trying to come up with a low-viscosity product that would spread and displace moisture in the same way that fish oil does (it's still one of the time-honoured ways to rust-proof the underbody of a vehicle but people smell you coming if the wind is right). Apparently they tried all sorts of formulations and the fortieth one worked. So probably not food safe, although I still would rather use it to get tar off my hands than mineral spirits.

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