Bert Vinyl wrote:
I once was working at a job where the boss wanted this new cut down tree gone. Well, i got it gone into my 2500 chevy truck. I had a rounded load, and didn't unload it but drove around for a few days with it in the back and the stuff on top was noticeably drier after that. i figure the air blowing on it really helped out.
thinking about these facts, maybe a row or 2 in the back of a pickup,under a cap with no windows would dry quick enough to be worth the effort. Or fill the cab and keep the heater on to help dry it. Or under hood kilning a batch a day.I can see it now.
I recall it being said that 1 lb propane has about the same heat as 2 lb of air dry wood having 20% moisture. Does anyone know if those to points are true?
Jim Fisk wrote:Somehow we made it and the drying wood gave off lots of moisture
Troy Rhodes wrote:I built a 12.5' x 28' hoop greenhouse, primarily for dying wood.
The results were extremely good. Here's a whole thread with pictures over on hearth dot com.
It dries wood like gangbusters. It doesn't take years, it takes weeks. This assumes you have some sun and some heat.
There are a few unique details. The ground is sealed, actually sealed (Ok 99%) with plastic and mastic on all seams, overlaps and at the edge where it meets the framing. If you don't do this, moisture from the ground
will make this much less awesome.
There is a screened window on each end. One of those has a cheap box fan hooked to a cheap thermostat, so the fan comes on at about 90F. This guarantees that the fan only runs when there is hot humid air to pump out of the greenhouse, minimizing/optimizing electricity use.
I would be happy to answer questions.
Troy Rhodes wrote:On a related note, it's hard to tell what the moisture content of wood is by....looking. Or....feeling. You would really like your wood to be below 20% for better efficiency and less creosote.
Under 10% is awesome and hard to attain unless you have a solar greenhouse wood dryer or something similar. Or you live in a dry hot dessert I guess.
4 pin moisture meters have gotten very cheap. 13-20 bucks gets you one on ebay, like so:
Nice, non-chinese meters can run 80-100 or more bucks.
It is a good lab exercise to verify the accuracy and precision of a cheap chinese moisture meter by using the weigh-heat-weigh method.
That's where you (as precisely as you can) measure the weight of a piece of wood, then you bake it in the oven at 300-325 for a while. Then weight it again. It will weigh less due to the boiled off water. Then bake it some more and weigh it again. When the weight stops changing, we can more or less assume all the water is gone.
(Orig. weight - final weight / orig weight) x 100 = the moisture content of the wood prior to baking. Then you compare that with what your cheapo moisture meter tells you prior to baking.
Mine was surprisingly accurate.
Note that you have to use the moisture meter on a freshly split surface to get the most accurate reading. The surface of an unsplit log will always measure drier than the wetter interior.