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Experimental peter channel  RSS feed

 
gardener
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Location: latitude 47 N.W. montana zone 6A
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Hi all; Playing around today, not cold enough to have the rmh going for heat but..... I thought, why not try a little hot rodding! Been thinking about the peter channel. So, not having the correct metal on hand I fabbed one up out of hardy board , just to try it out. I don't expect this temp piece to last long but it has already proven to me that it is an improvement worth having ! here's a few pics of it in action.
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How far down into the burn tube is considered optimal for creating turbulence in the gas flow ?

<bump>
 
thomas rubino
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I believe 1/4 inch below the roof of the burn tunnel. The hardy board only lasted a few hours and I haven't had time to fab up a metal one.
 
gardener
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Peter Berg has said that it should extend down as far as the gap is wide... so about 1/4" in most cases, I would say.

Also of note is the fact that only the edge next to the feed tube should extend down. If you were to build the secondary air channel as a steel tube of correct shape, the whole tube should not extend down.
 
thomas rubino
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Hi all; Found time to fab up a metal plate for a "P" channel today,and it works really ,REALLY well !!! Noticeable increase in velocity of horizontal burn , louder ROAR than before, barrel top temp now somewhere past 1000 degrees (my temp gun only goes to 1000) WHY did I wait 2 months to do this It only took an hour in the shop ! I only had a 1/8" piece of galvanized plate on hand to use , so I expect to be replacing this before to long. Keeping my eye open for some 1/4 copper plate like our friend konstantine in germany used on his.
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gardener
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Location: +52° 1' 47.40", +4° 22' 57.80"
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forest garden trees wofati woodworking
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NIce to see someone is using it and seeing improvement. I like the bolts for keeping the right distance to the brick... When you need to replace this plate I'd suggest you make it about 2"higher and wider both left and right above the feed. This way, there will be better separation between the two air streams. But it's just a detail, because the improvement is already there.
 
thomas rubino
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Thank you peter, the fine tuning is in the details ! I will certainly try extending the upper portion when I find it is time to replace the current plate. I mentioned 1/4" copper plate only because I like working with it and how it looks, although... it is very costly if acquired new. What material & thickness would you suggest for this ?
 
Peter van den Berg
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thomas rubino wrote:I mentioned 1/4" copper plate only because I like working with it and how it looks, although... it is very costly if acquired new. What material & thickness would you suggest for this ?


Thomas,
Copper would be fine, but prone to buckling as is steel. Instead of the bolts you could make flanges left and right to keep it at the right distance. Those flanges will result in a more rigid plate. A 1/4" will be way too thick for that prupose, but 1/8" does sound as the right material.
 
thomas rubino
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Hi All; just an update; Metal was warping towards burn tunnel. I expect that the next thing to happen is the warped edge will start to deteriorate . I tried turning it around making the warp go to the wood side, did not help at all , hammered it as flat as possible and its doing the job again. Time to build an improved model ,off to the scrap yard to look for plate steel, copper is just too expensive. I will add larger wings to the top to separate the air flow as peter suggested , also may try 3/16 plate instead of 1/8. I will post new pictures when the new and improved model is up and running.
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gardener
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Location: Southern alps, on the French side of the french /italian border 5000ft high Southern alpine climate.
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Thomas, i think you're plate is warping because it's touching the sides when hot! 1/8 is plenty good enough. I think you could keep your actual one, but give it more clearance on the sides. Ok, there's sometimes the wood pushing on it too. That we can't do much about.
 
thomas rubino
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Interesting idea max, I was planning on doing a better cutting job to make it closer to the sides, as I could see scorch marks where the flame was being pulled in. I should have taken a picture before hammering on it. The plate was warping at the very bottom in the center, the hottest part. I wondered about adding a third nut & bolt at the bottom center. I want to try peters idea of higher wings on top so I'll do both... New plate 1/8" with taller & wider wings on top and as close as I can get to the sides without touching . Then I will take my current plate and trim both sides back , possibly adding a third bolt to help hold it in place. This way I can test both.
 
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Could you use ceramic tile instead?
 
Glenn Herbert
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Ordinary ceramic tile would crack immediately from the differential heating. It would need to be a refractory ceramic fiber board, which would probably be damaged by the wood in the feed before long.
 
thomas rubino
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Ok; Back from the scrap pile, sadly no copper plate of the correct size and no 1/8" steel either . So 3/16" steel it is. I've cut it as close to the sides as I could and extended the top as peter suggested , one extra bolt at bottom center to hopefully help with the warping. So far I can't see or hear much difference from my original plate. I have taken the original plate and cut 1" in from the sides and added an extra bolt in the center also to help with warping, After a few days of burning I will switch and see any differences between the two.
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