In the book The Medieval Tailor's Assistant, it talks about the kind of cloth that would be available in the middle ages. The one that interests me the most is what they call woollen cloth (which isn't necessarily related to the definition of woollen we use today with a very specific kind of fibre prep and spinning).
This interests me because it's the kind of cloth I want to make for this
project, so I'll share some of the book here (bold mine)
Wollen Cloth - Any woollen cloth or blend with a visible weave, tabby or twill and a more or less hairy surface. The threads should be well packed together, though cloth intended for lining can be flimsier. A density of 6-15 threads per cm is typical for a working garment: a higher density is for finer garments...
Tabby is the same as plain weave, which is a lot of what I weave these days, but I do hope this project will be in a 2/2 twill. So I'm glad this fits with my idea.
The density of "6-15 threads per cm" (or about 15-38 threads per inch) I assume is in one direction and not referencing a "thread count" like we get when buying bedsheets and counts both warp and weft in a given inch. Another note is that this density is AFTER
fulling. So let's assume a balanced weave (both weft and warp have the same density), of 15-38 epi - finished measurements. Assume 20% shrinkage for an on loom measurement of 12-30 epi.
That seems quite coarse but would probably be good for outer layers.
For example, a cotton tea towel I've woven are usually set at 16-24 epi. Most of the blankets I've woven are closer to 10epi.