Who are you, what is your experience, physical capacity...?
What tools/equipment do you have? What can you rent in the area?
What materials are available at your anticipated site? Timber? Suitable soil for cob, earthbag? Clay for plaster?
What is the intended purpose of the building? Full-time, vacations, etc...
Fast, good, cheap... pick 2. Or if you screw up, sometimes just 1, or even none...
See how much smaller than 800sf you can go, to speed things up. Consider how you will be able to expand later on, when doing the initial design.
For speed a shipping-container setup would be PDQ.
If the terrain is on your side and you can have someone come in with heavy equipment, a wofati could also be quick.
If it was me, I'd think about buying a camper, and building a rough roundwood roof. Move the camper under it, then build an earthbag structure under the same roof. Do a better roof of seasoned timber some summer down the line.
You could easily leave off the 2 bedrooms on the right, and as long as you leave an appropriate doorway, they could be added on later if you actually need them. Ditto on the left, that side door could feed an expansion.
What sort of insulation under the stone floor?
Checkout these guys.
So depending on what's above the perlite floor-bags, I'd think 50 psi should be more than enough for the floor.
If you were thinking of it for a wall, perhaps a double-walled setup with perlite bags on the outside and standard on the inside, providing insulated thermal mass? Definitely a lot of extra work though!
Play around with some floor plans and see if you can compress the floor area you need. Bunk beds for more compact accommodation? Or a bed-shelf above the living space in the rafters? I've seen these and they look pretty great - a ladder up to an elevated sleeping platform.
Does this structure need to pass building codes in your area, or are there some simplifications you can make?
Paul's Wofati design has a lot going for it, but it needs earth moving equipment and a couple of people for safe placement of timbers.
You also will not find any foam mechanical property of "creep" or deformation over time is another compression combined load that can be permanent, since the foam will not regain it's shape. The low deflection, creep, compression allowables can produce cracks, holes, that can wick and store water, combined with fire retardants, blowing agents, create mold, rot, fungi etc....Some Engineers will completely ignore this, perhaps because it is rare that a slab will get dug up and their liability risk is low, supporting the foam industry. It is faster to throw down some foam and plastic vs mixing a rockcrete in a motor mixer, and perhaps cheaper. The only way out of it is a suspended slab that cost more and would perhaps equal out a slab on grade with perlite.
None of what I said above applies to perlite in a bag, it has higher deflection, higher compression, high creep, than foam...not all good. Perhaps fine for a floor if you infill with clay or cement. You'll hear arguments that foam compression is higher than the soil so all is fine, not true, soil-foam-rockcrete distributes load differently, long story.
There are better materials for floors and ALOT to learn to get them correct needing another thread of it's own.
The easiest method for building a home depends on local resources and skills. Outside of that in-depth knowledge of how to mate materials.
Terry Ruth wrote:None of what I said above applies to perlite in a bag, it has higher deflection, higher compression, high creep, than foam...not all good. Perhaps fine for a floor if you infill with clay or cement.
Can you expand on the not-good aspects?
Terry Ruth wrote:There are better materials for floors and ALOT to learn to get them correct needing another thread of it's own.
Would definitely be interested in such a thread, I think a lot of others would be too...
Perlite is made of mined volcanic glass that contains water by the rapid cooling of lava. The moisture absorbed vaporizes explosively when heat is applied. Light gives it white color. It retains water on it's surface (vermiculite retains more) and air in the spaces between giving soil oxygen and moisture retention and drainage properties better than vermiculite which could be valuable under floors-slabs with high water tables and water content. On average around 25% mixed into soil. Perhaps a split mix of vermiculite and perlite although finding have shown asbestos in vermiculite. Both are sterile and inert.
Does not make a whole lot of sense to put them in bags above soil to me anyway that looses some of the properties in soils. With an average ground temp of 55-65, colder in some climates, the insulation value could be enough to prevent cold condensation on a slab, since it is inert no worry about fungi like foam and plastics. As a sub slab lite concrete aggregate with lime or MGO makes more sense, MGO would be much stronger of a binder than portland cement and not conduct magnetic fields, radon gases, or thermally bridge at all like OPC needing no aggregate, or low density cement wood chip board from Durisol or Faswall which is clay neutralized wood-cement. Some perlite in the soil may be good anyway.
There are ways to design breathable floors and slabs, dry moisture with the proper air channels and barriers for radon gases as well. Perhaps I'll start that thread soon. I'm still looking into solar passive and active designs that incorporate human physiology that changes the game and myths substantially!
This is temporary or survival housing; the earth-and-pole roof will start to collapse inside of ten years. The walls themselves will stand until the bottom logs in contact with the ground begin to rot. A typical response is to jack up the cabin one edge at a time and replace just the rotted logs when that happens. Obviously any sort of foundation fancier than "a square trench scraped in the moss" will help by keeping the bottom logs from contacting moist soil; but in permafrost country there may be complications. The standard primitive cabin will sort of "float" as the permafrost melts but will usually stay more-or-less level; more complicated foundation systems tend to have more failure modes as the ground shifts.
I'd use rock or something between the wood and soil to stop termites, since as we go south west in the US termites get to be a pain. A glass bead spray reflective paint inside the roof will keep it cool in summer. A flat roof high in altitude I'm not sure about snow loads and drainage. If you go solar or off-grid you need a gable or hip or the right angle check some solar calculators to the lot. Slate or cedar roof tiles, magnesium sheathing (dries very fast) non conductor of heat, inert, sterile, taped seams, water and ICE 6 feet up from fascia, no OSB. Slate or Shake roof tiles last 100 years, great for rain catchment. I'd put a raised heel in the roof and insulate it, attached to large over hangs (90% of water issues at foundations are solved by). If I were to use a plastic membrane for the roof I'd go with a one piece for something this size like Duro-Last.
Another way to do floors is with wood chips, MGO, and a clay mix. I'd put an air gap in my roof and foundation to take care of radon gasses, french drain, no crawl run plumbing in floor and insulate it and heat it or keep from freezing.
Don't forget the skies and save me a chair for the winter x-games
Terry Ruth wrote:That sounds like the same home Daniel Boone built back in the early 19th century....Ha Ha. I bet the deed would free and clear. There is alot of wood in the rockies, not sure about black spruce although I have read good things about it's ability to manage water and vapor, store heat and cold.
Most people I knew were building these on government land, just squatting. This was in the 1970s mostly (before ANCSA, the Alaska Native Claims Settlement act, was passed or fully implemented) when Alaska was like Nevada, all government land and no private land hardly at all.
There was no special merit to the black spruce except that it was widely available. White spruce grew taller and thicker and was preferred for building permanent log homes, but it was much harder to find sufficient large straight specimens.
Today you are you, that is truer than true. There is no one alive who is youer than you! - Seuss. Tiny ad:
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