Jan Sebastian Dunkelheit wrote:I buried one rotten willow trunk in my garden last fall, just to see if it works. It looks like a child's grave though. In spring I will start planting and observe closely how well it does. I will take some pictures.
. Yuralani wrote:Can someone help me with a bit of info please.....
I live in tropical Australia (up the top) with very dry dry seasons and wet wet seasons. We have very thin (5mm) "plasterers scree" soil and no grass.. Just seca stylo left to go feral for 25 years and tea trees.
Do termites wreck a hugelkultur bed? We have lots of termite mounds.
Do I need to bring soil in to make it useable faster? If we leave it bare too long the snakes move in and the rain washes the wood bare...or will just a bit of our sandy soil do?
Can i build it north/south?...... It is better for drainage into the dam and stopping water from just sitting on the ground for 2 months.
Please help if you can ...we are all alone here and can't get much info. Thanks.
Nick Kitchener wrote:...Can you post a picture of the coal? If it's fine grade then it's possible that the heavy metals (if present), have leached out into the lower clay layer over the years. Coal tends to contain Sulphur which will make the soil more acidic.
I am guessing that the PH of the mound may be low, but will neutralise over time as natural rainfall rinses through the mound. The soil organisms will also regulate PH.
I would personally scrape off the soil you put on and apply a few feet of compost you make yourself so it's top quality. I'd then include detox plants like rabbit-foot grass and alpine pennycress in my plant families.
James Colbert wrote:I wish I had a camera the last time it snowed because I had a perfect visual representation of the micro-climates created by hugelculture which are dependent on bed orientation. I have hugel-swales which are on contour. The uphill side was completely covered with snow whereas the downhill side was completely free of frost. These beds are only 2 feet tall but I also have beds that are closer to 3 feet (and growing). These beds are oriented at about 45 degrees to the contour. The micro-climates were still created, one side was frost free, the other side had frost, but the side with frost had much less frost than the beds on contour. It was very interesting to see how one bed could possibly grow lettuce and melons at the same time. The side facing away for the sun extends your cool weather season, the side facing the sun extends your warm weather season. This effect gets stronger with increases in bed height. So you get more season extension with a 4 foot bed than you do with a 2 foot bed.