I have built three of these over the years. For the second and third, I used a grinder with a sanding disc to remove the paint prior to firing it up. This was a bit of work but worth it for an indoor unit. It is true however that the paint will eventually burn off if you don't remove it before use. You have to get it pretty hot though if you want to burn it off quickly.
As for barrel type, I recommend you use the the open top kind with a disk lid or cover and a thick metal retaining strip or ring. This give you easy access to the inside for firebrick or masonry cement/concrete installation, and easier attachment of the feat and exhaust collar. If you don't do this and just use the bung end type, then get large diameter self tapping sheet metal screws. Be sure to set the clutch on your drill gun appropriately so as not to strip the holes as you do the install. Of course you can just use machine screws or stove bolts but this is a bit of a pain, especially if doing through only the door opening. Don't use galvanized screws or bolts. No point since the barrel is not galvanized, and you don't zinc fumes coming off this thing. Perhaps this is less of a concern for an outdoor unit.
Ideal type but look for a used one:
https://www.bayteccontainers.com/55galstdrop.html I would recommend the bolt ring kind, but either will work. You will want to replace the gasket ring with stove gasket or stove cement.
For what it's worth, if you are just using this as a glorified burn barrel, you are better off just using a burn barrel but putting a 6 or 8 inch hole in the top (cut the top off if using the bung type of drum) but place it back on the barrel once you get the fire going. Putting a chimney on a burn barrel greatly improves the efficiency and cleanliness of the burn. Don't forget the air inlets at the bottom of the barrel. If you cut them with a grinder and do them as slats - i.e., don't cut them all the way off; just cut three sides of the rectangular openings, and bend them in at an angle to the tangent of the barrel - the incoming air will be directed in more or less tangentially into the barrel creating a cyclone effect. You will get a whirling dervish of combustion emissions sort of like a cyclone furnace. If you do this without a lid/chimney, it will stretch up to 8 feet high. Pretty impressive and nice on a cold night for a social get together.
Frankly, you don't need the kit for what you have in mind. Look up some videos on these. This one would probably work for you:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3xMHbJIFdfc If you go this route, attach the hinges for the door before cutting, then cut to the hinges and then take them off temporarily to make the rest of the cut, and then reattach the hinges. You get perfect alignment and ultimately easier. Again as prior mentioned, if using self tapping screws, take care not to strip the holes as you install. Use the clutch setting if you haven't been using drill guns for decades and have a good 'touch' with them.
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