The dream home
should be proof against any disaster, should heat and cool itself along with powering the a dehydrator, refrigerator, freezers,
water heater and do passively with no moving parts and no electricity. It should allow for aging people etc. Ideally it should also allow for growing parts of ones food. I am going to say the dream is a 2 bed, 2 bath house with the kitchen flowing into the dining area flowing into the living room as a single large room. And it should have a food storage room. Ideally on the main floor allowing for aging. It should generate
enough electricity to power itself. One other room labled office but easily converted to a temporary bedroom would
be nice
Is it reachable within reasonable cost?,
the answer is NO. But I think it is possible to come really close with very little added cost.
First let me say I am totally pro passive
solar in most areas with decent sun needing heating. It is not perfect but it really works. I live in a passive solar home built in 1984. With the bit of active solar(using 30 watts worth of fans) added a year ago I am to Dec 8 in a zone 4 borderline zone 3 climate having had a colder than average fall and I still haven't started heating yet. Surely that has value long term. And I would guess there are fewer than a dozen homes that are lived in, in this area out of probably 4000 homes that can say that. Even without the bit of active solar this house closed up would run all winter and never freeze a pipe with no human intervention.
Second I will say I am 100% pro basement in most locations. Exception are really high water table that can't be drained away and rock too hard to put a basement in. I have lived with many horrible basements thru the years. I agree totally a bad basement is a nightmare. But a good basement is doable without great expense. A good basement should never be finished in the classic sense. No wall to wall carpeting. Bare painted
concrete with throw rugs where needed. No sewer connect anything in the basement be it floor drains, washer, bathroom etc. Those are a bad idea. It should have ideally a french drain with a back flow preventer so the french drain can't flood the basement if the outside floods. If not a french drain then a sump that is seriously the lowest place in the basement. The argument for basement is the footing needs to go 4 1/2 feet deep to get below the frost line so you have already half the basement built. So doing it is a fairly cheap way to double your square footage. And using a combination of modern materials and good design I think they are totally functional. The basement in this house has a few problems but they would be easily solved>
I do find it interesting how short everyone's lists our on this topic as I could right a small novel on all the things I would like to see. I will sample a few.
Food storage room. Don't want a cellar as I want to do far better than that. For old age use best is on the main floor while best for the room is in a deep dark corner of the basement. It should also be really close to the kitchen for minimum effort. So for right now lets leave the location floating as that might be site specific. The room itself I actually want 2 rooms inside each other. The outer room makes a "YOU" around the next room in with shelves say 18 inches deep or drawers 18 inches deep around the both sides. This is for canned good storage and for longer term storage of
root crops and apples etc. This room while cool should never freeze but should be kept cool. Then a heavily insulated wall. Probably with 2 layers of foam insulation with cracks offset making the walls homemade SIPS and insulated on all sides. One wall needs to be steel to keep rodents out. Inside this room is storage for stuff that can freeze but that isn't hurt by thawing either. This is grains, flour, sugar, salt, pet food etc. This is to extend the life of such products and control insect problems. The shelves should be built to make life difficult for any rodent that makes it in. Also in this room is a chest type freezer Boxed with added insulation and a second lid with magnetic seals. Now there should ideally be 4 additions to the freezers design. 1. A vacuum line connection so a simply steel vacuum chamber can be placed in the freezer to do freezer drying. 2. A high pressure airline in to cool simple gas expansion.(maybe even hope for crygenic temps) 3. lines to a cold water chiller positioned so it will at least marginally work on convection even if it really needs pumped for best cooling. 4. Move the condenser and compressor outside the room.(yes a bunch of add refrigerant piping) The chiller system is borrowing from industrial technologies. The passive cooling of the cold tank for part of the year would be 2 seperate systems. The batch box ice maker solar thermal and a combination of heat pipes and BYU solar collector cone that can be used for cooling. For an active system on the same system a DC powered compressor moving heat from the cold water tank to hot water storage when ever the photovoltaic produces to much power or on need.
Another simple details is all compartments inside drawers and cabinets should be closed off from each other. So if the
mouse or insect make it in one drawer or door doesn't have access to the rest of the cabinets in the system. Also all drawers should have a roof over them that taper up slightly going out so it is absolutely impossible for something to get stuck between the drawer front and the back of the drawer. The taper is so you also can't get something like a spatula wedged between the drawer back and that same roof.
Another little details is that passive solar homes have a winter time problem of no hot spots. The is no good furnace vent or woodstove to dry winter clothes or warm gloves and
boots. So lets build a closet off the entry way mud room that is heated off the hot water system. Make it so it converts from a closet most of the year to a dehydrator from mid summer to early fall to a smoker for hunting/butcher season then back to a closet each in its season.
As for make up heat as well as domestic hot water go with the large tank stratification storage system and hydronic heat. Also hydronic heating under the basement floor. Since I don't know what level is needed there do maybe 3 layers. 1 directly under the concrete, 1 say 2 feet down and 1 4 feet down. Use these as part of the cooling system summer and winter and there by stretch the passives heating time by increasing greatly the number of tons of mass heated.
Stopping here for the minute because like I said this could be a small novel. Notice while concrete basement is implied it isn't necessary with the right build. Almost any build will work here be it wofati, under ground concrete domes, stick built,
straw bale or many others. It is good design principles that matter.