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Can you graft brassicas?

 
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I have some big tree collards that grew from seed and while very abundant I don't like their taste as much as another dino kale that I grow. Can I graft onto the tree collard trunks? Any advice?

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tree collards
tree collards
 
pollinator
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My first thoughts on this are that to have a stem of dino that was able to survive the grafting you would have to already have a pretty substantial dino plant. So at that point what is the benefit of grafting?
Second thought, I'm not aware of anyone ever having done this or tried it so, hey, you might be on to something.
Third thought, why not try breeding your dino kale into your tree collards and produce a tree collard type grower with dino kale type flavor?
you can run the breeding and grafting projects in parallell and see which one works out better first?
 
steward
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They graft tomatoes so I'd say it's worth a shot...
 
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As I understand it, the "perennial" nature of brassicas is a little different than, say, jerusalem artichoke, apple, or other rooty or woody plants that stay alive for many seasons.

The main difference is that tree collards just don't get enough dry heat to set seed ("bolt") in most of our temperate growth contexts, and because they never get the signal from their flowers and seeds to shot down, and they are cold hardy, they just keep going.

Other kale or collards will usually overwinter, and if you can keep them cool through the summer, often won't produce seed for a while, and will therefore keep making leaves. But they eventually produce flowers and seed, and that gives chemical signals to the rest of the plant that it isn't needed.

The thing I'm not certain about is where those chemical signals. I believe that they are produced by the tissues in the flower stalk/seed heads, but I may be wrong. If this is the case, pinching out the flower stalks of kale should help keep it producing (I've never tried this).

If instead, those signals originate in the roots, then grafting should have some effect.

But grafting on it's own isn't a broadly generalizable way to "combine properties" of different plants. We would need to know more about which plant tissues are sending which chemical signals to the rest of the plant.
 
steward
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I consider the immature flowers on brassicas a valuable spring veggie in place of "broccoli", but much healthier, since modern broccoli has been dumbed down a lot. If I reliably pick *all* the sprouts before the flowers bloom, the plant will normally survive another year - but we have a very moderate climate here with cool nights due to the ocean. I find that the leaves gradually get smaller and smaller, so eventually after about 3 years, I'm further ahead to start new plants as I only get to harvests from plants that are protected - the rest the deer *always* manage to find!
 
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You can root them. I have been experimenting with various brassicas and you can always find a few that make it through the winter even in a common seed source. I think it might be luck much of the time. The people who use food plots have produced a few hardy brassicas and some are available. But normally they are selected to remain green and vigorous into December. Some kales do not do that and the stems turn a light brown and the whole thing turns to mush.
About a decade or more ago, I started growing nine star perennial broccoli. It was nice and it worked in the polyhouses but not outside. I finally gave up. It consistently failed outside. But in the process of survival of the fittest, I did find some other open pollinated brassicas able to reliably make it below the 0 F mark. Ironically they also have the hardest stems too and are kind of woody in nature. (The stems, not the foliage.) What I wanted to say is you can root them pretty easy. Leave at least 3 eyes. After cutting, let them dry a bit and then stick them in a sandy peat moss. We have tried rotting compounds but I am not sure if that is any better than nothing.  For us rooting was very high about 75 percent success in the spring. Some people recommend cuttings that are around 6 inches long.   Basically the root of the brassica does not really sprout from below the ground so you need a hard woody stem with a rather good tolerance to cold. I think snow might be a good insulator and that may give you the luck you need to succeed with the so called hardy brassica.
 
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I'm really interested in this thread. I have a kale plant that's 3+ years old I've brought indoors for winter. I planted it back outside yesterday. It's about 5.5 feet high and spiraling so much I have to support it with braces. Once it adjusts to being back outside, I've been toying with the idea of essentially clipping it in half, rooting the top of and propagating pieces of that plant over time. And THEN, grafting another plant into the original stem of the kale plant. Any suggestions? I'll document it. Maybe a tall kale stalk with purple cabbage on top?
 
pollinator
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It looks like grafting brassicas is a possibility, though I didn't find anything for kale specifically (or other brassica oleracea cultivars).

Here is a study that was done with grafting bok choy onto Daikon radish: https://www.mdpi.com/2073-4395/10/10/1464/pdf

Sounds like the bok choi grew quite well on the radish root stock, but the radish came out pretty small.

Good luck, report back if you find out anything interesting!
 
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