posted 4 years ago
I feel knowledge and preparation is the key when dealing with ANY big decision, end of life is one of the biggest. In my experience (I do a lot of palliative animals), if we are ABLE to truly be honest with ourselves, AND do what is in the animals best interests (as opposed to personally not being ready to let go), they will tell us. The reality is, many suffer overlong as the human is not ready or able to let go. Just as often they are put down prematurely as the human is unwilling or unable to provide the care and treatment required. For me the key is not quantity, but QUALITY OF LIFE: As long as there is little to no suffering, coupled with the animals DESIRE to continue, and daily proof of that true JOY is still outpacing "simply existing" - then you are good, for another day at least.
Spay/neuter, annual vaccines and monthly parasite prevention are all common treatments many consider normal; dental care is equally crucial - albeit potentially more costly - and can extend high quality life for many years. I would venture, a pet who never lives with dental disease can expect to an additional 30-50% more years of life - it really does make a HUGE difference to their overall health, let alone comfort. Undiagnosed, low grade dental disease, commonly causes permanent damage, to the heart and kidneys in particular, leading to premature organ failure.
Other common geriatric issues are heart, lung, kidney, liver and thyroid; along with arthritis, dementia and loss of sight and or hearing. Seriously consider budgeting for a geriatric blood panel, annually. This will catch major organ issues early when diet and simple, inexpensive meds can make a huge difference in both the quality and longevity of an animals life. Do not overlook "changes", especially in temperament, energy, eating or toileting for days or weeks; this is especially critical in the elderly, they can crash fast. Early intervention generally means better outcomes, and lower bills.
CARING FOR THE GERIATRIC PET:
EYESIGHT: When cataracts or other vision issues threaten, take a good look around, and move or change any furniture NOW. As a pet loses their sight, ensure you don't place new obstacles in their path; install motion activated nightlights on all indoor and outdoor pathways - these blink on and even if unable to see shapes, they can often see light changes. Consider runners or other textural pathways to help them navigate; consider using cleated ramps in place of stairs as depth perception can fail.
HEARING: Put bells, loud ones, on pets with diminished hearing. When they can no longer hear you; you will need to "hear" them to figure out where they are.
PAIN: We all "feel it" as we age, the achy joints, bad backs...arthritis. Countless pets have bought years of quality life with simply pain relief. Many balk at giving daily meds; my question is would YOU be okay suffering needlessly? If money is no object, acupuncture, massage, swim therapy (no, not at the lake or ocean, in a pet specific therapeutic facility) or underwater treadmills in warm, non chlorinated water can be excellent options. Supplements such as Turmeric, glucosamine, chondroiton etc. can and should be discussed with your vet. Even a heated or plushy bed can make a huge difference. But please, don't let your friend suffer, needlessly, in pain.
INCONTINENCE: Consider creating set potty times and actually take them out, or TO, the potty location at set times throughout the day. Those with medical, sensory or mental deficits may no longer leave themselves "enough time" to get to prevent accidents. Consider pee pads or add litter boxes so there are multiple indoor options.
FEEDING: Meals may be better tolerated as smaller amounts, more frequently, especially if meds need to be taken with OR without food.
MEDICATING: Giving medication can be challenging... Processed cheese slices (I KNOW, ugh) when left out to soften for 10-15 mins make fabulous pill wraps to disguise medication. Often, one slice can do as many as 5, if not 10 pills. I find it WAY cheaper than the commercial alternatives; less messy than canned food/peanut butter and it is RARE for them to remove the pill from the cheese.
Of late, compounding pharmacies are becoming more available. These take ANY medication and specially prepare them as tasty liquids (fish flavor anyone?) or pills. Commonly this IS more expensive than standard pills - but if you can't get the animal to TAKE their medication, or you are unable to GIVE pills, this is a wonderful alternative.
HOW DO YOU KNOW, WHEN IT IS TIME...: Look to their personality (not their deficits, conditions, abilities or prognosis) for clues. At times this will be a day by day, even hour by hour process; the keys for me are appetite, body language and interest in life - I sum it up as JOY; but when the joy is fading, it can tough.
Be honest, are they literally faking it for you, or are they still, genuinely excited to see and interact with both you and their food. It's perfectly okay, if they don't move around much, or seem to snooze a lot; so long as they are NOT uncomfortable, and still have joy. There is never a hard or fast rule, this is when you really need to know your gut, and trust it - don't cut life short, but don't hold out TOO long - the key word is quality. As long as there is little to no suffering, coupled with the animals DESIRE to continue, and daily proof of that true JOY is still outpacing "simply existing" - then you are good for another day.
EUTHANASIA: Method of death can vary from a caringly placed bullet (into the base, at the rear of the skull, close range), a visit TO the vet, or even a vet coming to your home.
A great vet will administer, via IV, a specialized cocktail (often 4-5 drugs) for initial sedation, and when you are ready, an inter-cardiac shot that will (almost) instantly stop the heart. There may be a few "agonal" breaths, or twitching; at times anal or bladder leakage can occur. This is all a result of residual brain and/or nerve impulses, and NOT signs of distress or life. Many vets will offer to take fur trimmings, paw prints, even clay paw prints where the paw is pressed into clay that is then glazed and fired (some even can put this on a mug) so you can have a permanent memorial.
CREMATION vs. BURIAL: When chemical euthanasia is used, cremation is critical to ensure accidental consumption of the body does not occur as this, logically, could KILL anything that fed off the body. If you want a whole body burial, then alternative to chemical euthanasia will likely be required.
PRIVATE vs. COMMUNAL CREMATION: Cremation can be costly, especially if you choose private over communal. Private means the pet is the only one in the chamber, the ashes are collected, packaged, placed in an Urn, and returned to you.
Communal IS more environmentally friendly, as the chamber is respectfully filled, before commencing the cremation. It does mean no returned ashes, but all ashes are collected and placed or scattered in a dignified manner, often in a pet cemetery where you can visit.
Assuming you are physically and financially able to provide: I believe there is NOTHING disloyal in seeking a new companion. In fact I feel it is honoring those who pass by not wasting a fabulous home and allowing another deserving friend to fill the vacancy. I think your friend would be saddened to see you without companionship due to pining for them or being "unwilling" to experience such loss again; and I think they would be disappointed to see such a good home go to waste...I believe the passing of one animal is to create room for another needing a home.
Pets are NEVER replaced; they simply live fewer years than us, so we have ROOM for more of them, throughout OUR life.
Lorinne Anderson: Specializing in sick, injured, orphaned and problem wildlife for over 20 years.