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Remote Permaculture - Not Living on Property

 
Posts: 3
Location: US
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Newbie here.. We do not live on our property yet.
It is located within a short drive (less than 2 hrs). If someone could be so kind and point me to any forums, groups, search criteria, or permie site links of a community that specifically does not live at their place on a full time basis. Im curious to see some of the aspects of Permaculture that are in play when you cannot be there everyday.
I've looked here on Pemies and was unsuccessful.

I'm not trying to solve anything in particular, I'm just looking for a forum or group of individuals that currently have the same situation as I do to get some ideas and knowledge.

Thank you so much.
 
steward
Posts: 17407
Location: USDA Zone 8a
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Not living on the property does present some difficulty while trying to grow plants.

Lack of the ability to water new plants.

While this may not be the same situation, you might find some tips here:

https://permies.com/t/219018/Reality-land-separate-property

This is the only forum that a spend my time on so I cant recommend others.

Reddit seems to have just about any subject available.  Though it might not have the `be nice` policy.
 
Country Way
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Thank you, that's what I was looking for!
 
pollinator
Posts: 5520
Location: Canadian Prairies - Zone 3b
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As I understand it, part of the permie thing is to set up food systems that are, by design, more resilient and don't need constant hand-holding.

Try these search terms for threads/posts that might be relevant to your situation:

guerilla
guerilla garden
food forest
absentee
zero maintenance
 
pollinator
Posts: 847
Location: Appalachian Foothills-Zone 7
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Welcome.  A more precise location will allow for plant recommendations that have lower maintenance requirements.
 
Country Way
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Hi Gray, Im in 7b. It not so much the items to grow, just looking at ideas others have experienced when having to travel to support their properties. Mostly livestock possibilities and irrigation.

Thanks
 
Posts: 75
Location: Memphis (zone 7b/8a)
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My dream is do this somewhere tropical and then find a way to visit a couple times a year to live off the bounty.

Even in 7b, there's a lot that will grow with virtually no care and input.  For root crops, Jerusalem artichokes and Chinese yams outcompete even the goldenrod at my 7b place. Amaranth and sorghum do the same among the grains. Asparagus, creeping cucumber, cardoon, oregano among the greens. Egyptian walking onions.  Fast ripening melons (before the vine borers), moschata varieties of pumpkin/squash, and sweet potatoes will also do well if you plant them and harvest at the right times.


Chestnuts, pecans, persimmons, figs, plums and mulberries will do fine with no care. Just about any berry you can think of will do well.
 
Douglas Alpenstock
pollinator
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Location: Canadian Prairies - Zone 3b
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Country Way wrote: Mostly livestock possibilities and irrigation.


How often will you be on site? Do you have grid electricity?

Do you have neighbours you could cultivate to keep an eye on things?
 
master pollinator
Posts: 5203
Location: Due to winter mortality, I stubbornly state, zone 7a Tennessee
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I live on an acre that contains my garden. However, I work a lot of hours, I get to see my garden only on my off days. So, not remote, but almost hands off. I might spray some neem oil, a couple times, to get ahead of whatever eats my kale and turnips leaves until the plant die. Might be cabbage moths, might be harlequin bugs. Otherwise, it is left mostly alone.

I am also in zone 7. Moschatta pumpkins and squash are doing really well here in the humid misdsouth. Mixta (or whatever the botanists are calling that family now) are struggling. I purchased Joseph Lofthouse landraces of both families, I don't remember what company that I purchased them from. usually have good success with all Moschatta, even seed from the mainstream companies. They are resistant to both squash bugs and vine borders. Joseph's stuff has a head start from being bred to not need pest control.

Cucuzzi is an edible gourd that laughs at those bugs too.

I don't bother with zucchini or any other peppo anymore. I have to spray all the time to get a small harvest.

Cowpeas are another no tend crop for my region.
 
Gray Henon
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Location: Appalachian Foothills-Zone 7
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How far away from your land are you and how often do you think you will check in on things?

Good fences and water sources will be key to leaving livestock unattended. We leave for several weeks every summer with only someone to check water occasionally.  It is possible.
 
pollinator
Posts: 4139
Location: Kansas Zone 6a
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I did it for several years, about ten hour drive with a trailer.

Rainfall matters A LOT. Our land got enough rain often enough in non-drought years to not need irrigation for plant establishment.  We put potted plants under shade at the edge of the woods and most survived.

We would save up and take a “vacation” for 2-4 weeks and do earthworks and building the house. I know you are closer, but I suggest you do the same thing for the big projects. Weekend warrior does not work efficiently for those sized projects.  There are tons of projects that you can do on a weekend, but save the big ones for a full week stay—that also lets you rent equipment or hire someone for the earthwork jobs. Renting a machine for a week usually costs the same as renting for 3 days.

Buy or build a shed or garage with a sleeping loft. That will save SO much time for when you do the weekend warrior trips.

 
master pollinator
Posts: 2000
Location: Ashhurst New Zealand (Cfb - oceanic temperate)
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I have friends who do something like this, although they're unlikely to ever set up to live permanently at their half hectare food forest. They might park their caravan there once they have built their "real" house where they are living now, but at the moment the only structure is a shed with a decent lock on it.

They started planting a well-drained property on a river terrace near the northern extremity of the west coast of the South Island (box that compass, kids) in a microclimate that is practically subtropical and gets abundant rainfall, especially through the summer months. Its downsides are the remoteness and the sandflies, and its exposure to ridiculous extreme weather events that are ramping up with climate breakdown (the closest town of any size will need to be moved or abandoned in the next ten or twenty years...insurance companies won't touch it). They live in a very contrasting spot: the most inland part of central Otago, on old goldfields with a much drier climate that has hot summers and cold winters. It's a long day of driving to get from one to the other.

They started planting up the remote land about ten years ago and have everything from apples, pears, plums and peaches to figs, pawpaws, cherimoya, white sapote, bananas, nuts and all sorts of goodies. Thanks to the reliable rainfall, the only thing they need to do is stay on top of the mowing, pest shooting, do some pruning and damage control, and try to time their visits for when something they want will be ripe. Birds and possums probably take most of the harvest, but they might work out a deal with someone local to pick more of the fruit just on principle.
 
master pollinator
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Location: East of England/ Northeast Bulgaria
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The biggest factor affecting remote gardening is probably going to be rainfall, water supply, and hot hot the summers are. If your land gets good rain all year, you can plant things, mulch them well, and when you come back a month later chances are have survived, though you'll have a lot of weeding to do and there may be some bug damage.

I'm trying to establish a garden in an old neglected homestead in a different country, where I  intend to move when I can but currently only get there a week a month. It has zone 7 winters, some rain in spring and autumn, but extremely hot, droughty summers.  In spring and early summer, the weed pressure is unbelievable. Then come summer, almost everything that's not irrigated is crispy and dry until the autumn rains, even the weeds. My aim is to plant as any seeds as possible and see what survives. So far, unfortunately not much! I must have the best fed ants in the village.

I've been able to start four hazelnuts from seed, though they've taken two or three years to get the size of a year old seedling in my UK garden. I should have done a better job of creating planting basins for them to contain the rain better. Also, one is located where it gets too much sun and needs shadecloth in summer. Twice that one fried to a bare twig without proper protection, but it leafed out again when I deep watered it (and is now well shade-cloth protected).  I thought I'd lost the jerusalem artichokes when they disappeared in summer last year, but they came back strong in the spring and have obviously been quietly multiplying there. They have the advantage of getting run off rain from my neighbours' barn roof, which is right on the property line. A patch of garlic and a couple of walking onions also disappear in summer but reappear when it cools off. A few squash have tried to grow, but haven't managed to produce fruit. I'm grateful for some good strong edible weeds and the previous owner's ancient fruit trees, a huge walnut, and some grapevines.

My lessons so far are to set up better rainwater catchment from the roofs, and form swales and planting basins. Plant from seed rather that starts as I won't be there to water them. Get seeds in early, even when it's too cold, to take advantage of the moisture in the soil -- plant too many seeds of as many varieties as I can and trust that some will survive to sprout when the soil warms enough.  I want to get more fruit and nut trees and shrubs and perennials planted, but unless I can figure out a good watering system or find varieties that will survive on a once a month deep watering in scorching drought, that might need to wait! If I do spend on bare rooted plants, I might give the Groasis Waterboxx a try, though they are plastic, not cheap, and digging the holes will be a challenge.

If you have reliable rainfall, none of this really applies, of course!
 
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