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Gerry Parent wrote:Have you checked out the Finishes forum? Some good stuff and advice in there...
Also, search for natural plaster recipes online. Tonnes of stuff with pictures and videos.
Cement colorant is about the best I've found for getting nice long lasting tones unless you can find clay in the color you like. I just have boring grey clay here so color is really a nice addition.
Always make a little extra and dry into small balls and keep in the closet as when it comes time to patch, you have some that will match.
Yes, I've found the wheat paste to work real good. Doesn't dust off every time you clean the wood chips and bark either.
More info to share, but not sure where your going with your finish so just ask when you get 'there'.
BTW. Is that a picture of the famous Marilyn Mon-Mimi?
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thomas rubino wrote:Hi Peter;
No worry's about that drip. In fact its a good sign. This is your moisture leaving the mass!!! HOO RAY !
It will stop after a while. This is one reason we tape pipe connections to limit how much drips out.
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I would say so. Worse case scenario (and only if you really feel is necessary) would be to reverse the piping from where it comes out the bench to the roof. Not something that you probably want to do with all that perlite in there but doable. The H chimney cap would also have to be modified to fit the wrong end of the pipe but a little ingenuity with a DIY crimper (aka needle nose pliers) can do wonders.Peter Sedgwick wrote:So at present we should be good?
Burning pretty hot if I fill her up. Over 400C on the top of the barrel after 5 minutes of burning, but would have to keep the feed tube filled constantly to maintain that kind of temperature. If it just has a few sticks in it and is burning we end up having a small amount of smoke. (See attached photos for reference)
That's so good to hear. Don't think it will ever be "hot" in the morning. Its more of a gentle warmth that your most likely to experience that will stabilize the wild fluctuations without the mass.Mass is drying and stabilizing pretty well. Still not “hot” in the morning, but mass heats up much faster than before.
Starting to think about how to use the heat that collects near the ceiling of the rocket room. Too hot and a bit of a waste. Want to experiment with some fans and a bit of cheap expandable tubing to suck the hot air into other spaces.
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Satamax Antone wrote:Peter, didn't you have a chimney thermometer? I would be keen to know what is your temps in the chimney at chest to nose height.
Fox James wrote:I run mine with limited air in a sort of gasification mode, I have a lid that goes over the fire box and just run the secondary air.
I also sometimes run it with a large log that just keeps it ticking over (all shown in my videos) but I think my high mass fire box helps, I don’t know if this would work so well with a CF core?
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Satamax Antone wrote: So we need the stuff!
God of procrastination https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q1EoT9sedqY
Peter Sedgwick wrote:Think we are actually talking about two different types of pipes. The stuff we’re using is actually high temperature air duct piping. There is no male or female side of the pipe. The crimping I was referring to is on the spiral. There’s a separate joint piece that connects two pieces together. (Images attached)......Slightly concerned about spalling and heat corrosion,
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Satamax Antone wrote:
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Out of absolute mad sheer luck. Would you know a mate of mine. Francky Moranval?
Your jacket just makes me think of "band of boarders" uniform.
Gerry Parent wrote:
Never seen that stuff before, Thanks for the education on it. I use a galvenized steel piping exiting from my bell to the outdoors. I've used it for at least 6 years now with only a light surface rust showing up on the inside from the condensation that forms but no spalling. I'm confident that it will last many more years.
Look forward to your plaster findings.
Peter Sedgwick wrote:Was just researching fire ash as an additive to natural plasters. Found this thesis paper.
Link: http://repository.upenn.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1320&context=hp_theses
Study on the effects of wood ash on natural lime plasters.
Added all the sifted ashes from my stove so far to
to a layer of clay and lime based plaster the other day. We used it to cover the perlite/clay layer around the perimeter of the room and also as an additional layer on the outside of the feed tube.
Only read a bit so far but pretty informative it seems.
If anyone is interested.
Cheers, Peter
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Gerry Parent wrote:
OK, so I finally ploughed through most of this paper. About as dry as a milk bone and had to take it in small chunks but ended up fast forwarding to conclusions in chapter 6 on page 283.
Sounds like it certainly would be worth adding it to any kind of plaster. The charcoal in particular with its micro pore structure holds onto the water minimizing shrinkage, cracking and increasing work time.
"The test results indicate that wood ash does improve the performance of lime plaster for base coat application. All of the properties judged critical for this context including, workability, adhesion, stiffening rate, permeability, and crack resistance were improved with 10-20% of the additive."
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Fox James wrote:Wow that is a blow and such a shame!
I guess your original product was not up for the job or perhaps you mixed it a bit wet and then heated it to soon?
The standard refractory casting cement I use for my pizza ovens will last for many years of heavy use.
The one I use has added stainless steel needles and burn out fibres, it is rated to 1400c. I also add a further 5% needles and fibres as recommended for high abrasions areas.
There is a quoted amount of water per bag and that is important to stick to, I think it is 4lt per 25kg but I basically mix it as dry as possible.
The dry mix looks impossible to work with but it will vibrate out flat with excess water showing on top even with such a dry mix.
Can you remember the temperature rating of your product?
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Satamax Antone wrote:Peter, don't worry too much.
You have gravel, mud and ceramic board under that bottom brick.
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Just stick the back one with mud, and fill the bottom cracks with mud, every time you find it's needed when you clean it. And you'll see next spring what you can do to address this. And may be rebuild it as a batch!![]()
May be you could buy a bag of fireclay.
If a tomato is a fruit, does that mean ketchup is a smoothie? What if we mix in a tiny ad?
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