Gerry Parent wrote:Hey Pete & Co.
That gives a whole new meaning to batt insulation. Well done utilizing inexpensive and natural materials to achieve a simple goal.
Will you be covering them up with anything or going with the ‘truth window’ look?
Mark Brunnr wrote:Thank you for the great update! That frozen water situation looks rough! Is that space not in an insulated area, just too far from the heat? I once had a bathroom that was at a far corner of a house, over an uninsulated space that was too short to get into, and the water pipe could freeze unless I left the faucet slowly dripping or blew a space heater in (water was far cheaper). I wonder if one of those heat differential fans people put on their stoves could blow warm air from the top of the barrel over towards the sink to help any?
Recently EdibleAcres posted a little video on their wood splitting stump, perhaps it would save you from bending over a few thousand times a year and speed up kindling production? Essentially a stump with a few boards attached for a more stable base, and a small tire sitting loose on top that you pack with wood, then chop it all up before removing it:
I've also seen a person use a chain with a bungy cord on the end to hold the wood up instead of a tire and that is adjustable but you could hit the chain with the axe too.
Fox James wrote:Lovely looking mountain …..
Satamax Antone wrote:I wished we had a dump of snow!
Peter Sedgwick wrote:Hey guys,
1. Tamped and leveled road base gravel 6cm-8cm
2. Tamped and leveled pumice stone 4cm-6cm (for insulation)
3. Old carpet (protect the moisture barrier)
4. Tamped and leveled builders sand 2cm
5. Waterproof pond liner as moisture barrier (still debating if this is necessary)
6. Another old carpet (protect the moisture barrier)
7. Tamped and leveled builders sand 2cm
(The above numbers are rough estimated calculations based on information I have gathered from other builds with similar requirements.)
Antigone Gordon wrote:
Peter Sedgwick wrote:Japanese pier and beam foundation with mortise and tenon construction
TRADITIONAL MASS-STOVES IN JAPAN
Your great timber framed house is perfect for a traditional Japanese mass stove floor plan. Surely you can design your rocket stove to fit the architecture, considering how these timber-house types were usually heated originally. I've written small introductions to links below.
* Examples of both the L-shaped and tatami-room heated floors are included in chapter-1 of the series "History of Radiant Heating and Cooling"
* In a Japanese farm house, the burn chamber would typically be in one room, and the heated mass in the next room. The lower pounded-earth floored room would have the burn chamber and a high ceiling. This would usually be the farm-room kitchen and barn entrance room. The stove's heated earthen mass would be under the floor of the raised room that had low ceilings for keeping heat in. The wall between the burn chamber and the mass would be made from a plastered wall or movable screens which could be adjusted for the season and privacy. This way occasional smoke would not enter the main sitting room so much.
* Even the stand-alone kamado in the middle of a kitchen usually had some invisible chimney buried in the earth.
* The raised-room floor might also have a sand-filled depression in the middle for keeping a pot warm with small charcoal. Architecture drawings often show this sand pit in line with the kamado in the next room. So likely that may have been directly over the buried kamado chimney.
* The heated table "kotatsu" evolved from those irori sand-filled floor pits.
Keep us posted Peter.
key terms: "traditional Japanese stove", irori, kamado, ondol