Toaster / air-fryer type oven -- disassembly and repair question

Zack egan you rock toa-60 oven fix
I had no idea what i was going to do kids were starving and i just jumped the door switch wire to the oven timer who care about toaster

Looked at that 12 pin switch.  Looks backward from mine with small square protrusions on shaft side.  Not sure it would work.  Problem with mine is internal mechanism is trashed, preventing it from turning, so the timer bypass solution won't work.  Did you get that 12 pin to work?

Wankel, did you get it to work?  That 12 pin switch looks backward from mine.  Plus square protrusions may prevent switch from mounting properly.  I'm sure I could cut them off.  Since my switch is trashed internally and won't turn I have no way to map connectivity

Where can I buy or order the rotary switch
FZ31 9E to fix the switch ?

Maureen Brown wrote:Where can I buy or order the rotary switch
FZ31 9E to fix the switch ?

I don't know, Maureen. I quickly skimmed back through the thread, and it seems like no one else found a replacement switch--they just did work-arounds. I wonder if the company can be contacted, since this seems to be a common problem...

Ebay has customized switches now? Has anybody tried these with any success? And is the switch exactly the same or better in durability/design?

Thank you for providing a forum for discussion!

Here's the link to at least one of these specifically referring to TOA 60
https://www.ebay.com/itm/353886057836?hash=item526540b56c:g:y9AAAOSwKdRh2tt5

Anybody knows where to buy cusinart TOB 260N1 control pcb assembly

Any success for anyone? Mine looks good but the output to the timer on the left most is not coming. But the current to the toaster timer(right most) is fine from the switch. I tried to flip the wires from frier output to toaster output on the switch. It powers the frier timer but I don't all the functions of frier like bake etc.
Is it possible to open the fz31-9e switch and reassemble it? The switch looks intact.
Please advi6

not sure who all is still interested but seems like the cuisinart FZ31 9E is on ebay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/353964390258?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

Glad to see of other's interest in this fix and I hope someday there will be a good solution to the insufficient switch provided on the OEM models.  

Following up on the recommendation of the FZ31 9E switch mentioned in the more recent posts, I found the following short video with a brief description of having replaced the switch on a TOA-60 Air Fryer with the FZ31 9E.  Just adding to the discussion with this post:

Hi, I got to this thread trying to fix the door switch.

I took a photo and it reads 24.9 A, but searching I only find 16 A and for microwave.

I'm confused about it, is it ok to use a 16A door replace in the AirFryer?

thank you

Many thanks to everyone in this thread!  The collected wisdom helped me successfully replace the function switch in my Cuisinart TOA-60 Air Fryer Toaster Oven.  

I wanted to give a little back by putting everything into one post, in the hope that it might help others effect the same repair more easily.  Much of the info here also applies to the door switch replacement, although I didn't do that repair specifically - the takeapart is the same, though.

1.  The proper replacement part for the function switch, which I found on eBay in April, 2022 for about $25, is FZ31-9E, 11-pin, 7 position, 20 A switch.  Order in advance and have ready, because you are NOT going to want to interrupt the job and leave the oven disassembled during the couple of weeks it takes to arrive from China.

2.  Tools needed:  
    #2 Phillips screwdriver with regular-length shaft
    #2 Phillips screwdriver with ideally 16" shaft - 12" works but a little more difficult with angles.  If not already magnetize, you'll def want to magnetize it by rubbing it with a powerful magnet.
    T15 Torx bit & driver for ONE screw on the back
    Good flashlight
    Long-nose pliers for pulling off slide connectors
    Small flat-blade screwdriver for pressing in tabs on knob
    Large pliers with duct tape on jaws for pulling on knob (ideally not needed)
    Pick or small round file or other tool for aligning holes
    A HEAVY-DUTY soldering iron OR wire cutters and and least 3 extra .25" female quick-connectors
    Gloves to protect hands from cuts; a large part of my final cleanup was removing blood drops from the work area, oven, and floor.
    A VERY hefty amount of patience and tenacity

3.  Unplug oven, remove racks, crumb tray, etc and CLEAN it, unless you want old melted cheese on your workbench (experience talking)

4.  On back, remove the one stupid T15 Torx screw that some lawyer at Cuisinart made them include to make it less likely that people would open it.

5.  On back, remove the many other Phillips screws, which the engineers at Cuisinart added to keep all that thin sheet metal aligned nicely.  You DON'T have to remove the two which hold the plastic vent cover in the middle, just above the Torx screw.  The back should now unhook from the bottom and come off neatly.  All is well so far, and you should not have had to dip far into your store of patience.

6.  On the bottom of the oven, remove the visible screws holding the large side-and-top sheet metal piece to the bottom.  

7.  There plastic pieces with feet and handles; one side has 3 visible screws, which can be removed.  On the other side, there's one visible screw, and two which are under the feet; you can pry the feet out easily via their center hole, then remove all 3 screws.  Remove the plastic parts.

8.  With the long-reach screwdriver (MAGNETIZED - so you don't drop the screws deep inside!) and flashlight, locate and remove 8 screws holding the big sheet-metal piece to the front panel.  This is Challenging Part #1, but it's not too bad; I found holding the flashlight against the screwdriver handle gave me good sight to find the screws.  There are 2 on the far left, 4 on top edge, 2 on right.  Note that you DON'T need to remove any screws which aren't near the sheet metal cover; you're not trying to remove the front panel - just free the whole sheet-metal wrap-around piece.

9.  Put on your gloves, and get ready for Challenge #2:  Grab upper-back corners of the big sheet-metal piece and work it backward to get it free of the tension clips holding it along lower front edges.  Be aware that it bends easily, but it's not fatal if it does; just harder to get holes aligned when you are re-assembling.  In an ideal world, you should be able to gently it work back and out and remove it without much damage.  Set aside carefully, where it won't get bent, and you can shuck your gloves.

10.  Now, you're at the heart of the job - actually replacing the switch!  Challenge #3 awaits:  removing the knob.  There are a couple of little plastic expansion tabs which hold the knob on the shaft, and you can push on them while pulling on the knob and it should release.  In my case, my switch was totally jammed, and I could only reach one tab, but I used the duct-taped (non-marring) pliers to pull-wiggle the knob while pushing one tab, and it released without breaking.   I see that it's not end of world if the tabs break; just means your knob will be loose, which happens to a lot of men.

11.  Once knob is off, remove two screws from underneath knob and the switch will come out.  Hallelujah!

12.  Bring your new switch up next to the old one, and use long-nose pliers to pull off all of the NON-SOLDERED quick-connects, one at a time, and transfer them to the new switch.  Just when you think you're home free, you'll now find that the sadistic manufacturing engineers at Cuisinart added a 'safety feature' by SOLDERING the power wires to the switch with what seemed like high-temp solder.  My little pencil iron didn't even come close to melting it, and I didn't feel like digging out my giant straight iron from the garage.  Fortuitously, right there in 'electric' toolbox where a bunch of .25" female quick-connects, so I just cut the wires close to the old connector and crimped 'em into the new connectors, then slid them on to the appropriate pins.  If you've got a big soldering iron handy, you should be able to free the connectors, and hopefully clean 'em up enough to slide on to the new switch.  

13.  At this point, it's mainly the old "Assembly is the reverse of removal" biz:  re-attach switch to front panel, and replace knob.  

14.  Put gloves back on.  Place easily-deformed sheet-metal cover over, make sure the tension clips are fully aligned on both side, and tap into place to seat.    Now you're ready for The Final Challenge:  Replacing the 8 long-reach screws.  Because I'd somewhat mangled the big sheet- metal piece, I had to us the small pick align the holes on the right and left sides; I put the pick in one hole to hold it while I put screw in the other.  The 4 tops screws went easily.  Again, magnetized screwdriver makes it MUCH easier.

15.  After that, it's all cake.  Just re-attach all screws to bottom of sheet metal pieces, then the plastic handle-feet pieces, pressing rubber feet back in after screws are in.  Re-attach back with the dozens of screws they felt it needed - recommend starting all of them a turn or two before tightening any of them, so the covers all align.  Finally, just put the Stupid Torx Screw back in, with a satisfied sigh.

16.  Clean the oven of the 10,000 fingerprints and any spilled blood; hopefully you avoided that turn of events, as well as the blackened cheese that was all over when I was done.  And, as my departed father used to say, "The job's not done until all the tools are away".  Then, enjoy a beer and some reheated pizza in the nice appliance you just saved from the landfill!

I spent about 3.5 hours on the whole thing, but now could re-do in under an hour (I'm sure I will need to, since new switch likely to melt in a year, too).  Hopefully, this guide helps you avoid some of my issues, like not knowing about the hidden screws under the rubber feet on ONE SIDE, not knowing how to release the knob at first, mangling my sheet-metal, cutting myself in 3 places, getting baked crap everywhere, and general learn-as-you-go delays.  I was not pleased that Cuisinart made this effort SO difficult, and requiring of special tools; seemed like they very much did not want this to a DIY project.

Best of luck to you all and KEEP FIXING INSTEAD OF REBUYING!!  

Hi so did anyone have luck with the 12pin 8sel?

Hello, do you have the link where you got the part? I already looked everywhere including ebay and I can't find the part 11 pins 7 positions

Glad I ran into this THread on the toa-60    gonna take housing off....short the door switch wires..but do like the option of tin snipping a hole

stripping wires for wire nut..you need that trigger stripper...don't have one

so won't put the 8 screws back towards from  since the clips will suffice  on holding it in  but all other screws will be returned to their holes


WML.....


Thanks for the posts Ya'll

I just took the outer housing off my Cuisinart TOA-60. It was confusing to me too until I saw the eight screws right behind the front panel (looking in from the back of the unit). I used a long (13.5 inch) phillips screwdriver (magnet head to keep screws from dropping) and removed all eight screws. Then (with gloves on due to sharp edges) I firmly wriggled up and down while pulling the case cover back away from the front panel and it finally came loose and OFF the unit. Didn't have to bend anything. It comes off straight back as it should. Those clips on the sides of it are just clips and release if you keep pulling. Now everything is open for access to the components.
Hope this is helpful. wb.

I created a drawing from Zach’s post. He is 100% correct when he says jumpering the rear switch will fix the unit. Jumper “B” “3” & “4” from the rear switch and the unit will work from either/both timers.
Note- the wired you will be jumping together are the soldiered wires on the actual switch.
Also- I didn’t add color wired because the color wires in my unit are different from Zach’s.

Big thanks to everyone who posted here. I have a TOA-60 that had the function selector switch fail just after 3 years and outside the warranty period. Google directed me to Ebay and a replacement switch for $10 & change. This was the only website that had any useful information on the details of disassembly and reassembly. I especially appreciated the explanation on how to remove the knob. It only took me a little over an hour to do the job. Cuisinart continues to sell this oven and this switch is frequently the thing that fails from what I have read on multiple sites online. Planned obsolescence at its finest.

Hi Tom,

Welcome to Permies!  

My thanks to those that preceded me.  I never could have gotten this far without your information and pictures.

My unit was a later model with the microprocessor control.  This replaced the problematic rotary switch.  Much of the rest of the unit is the same.

I found using a thin piece of wood and a pry bar or claw part of a hammer made the side removal from the clips easy.  Note the tape is to protect the sharp edges from cutting my fingers.  The picture shows the pry bar position and the second picture the clips.  I always do better when I can see what I am working with.

Finally the door switch seems to be a consistent problem.  I added a picture of the numbers on the side of the switch in that helps.

My problem is a noisy fan.  I thought it was the top cooling fan.  There is a small computer cooling fan on the side of the plastic housing that holds the display and processor.  It appears to be scraping the housing.  Upon disassembly of the oven, the fan noise went away.  Now, when reassembling, I will have to see what tweeks the housing, causing the noise.

I consider myself mechanically inclined, having worked for ten years restoring antique coin operated games like pinball machines and horse race games.  This machine was difficult, what with hidden and far reaching screws, strong clips, and sharp edges.  I strongly believe we should fix broken things.  However in this instance, I suggest caution.

Michael

Michael: Welcome to permies! LOVELY first post!!  :D

I strongly believe we should fix broken things.  

Yes.  A lot of us here think that. check our ungarbage category https://permies.com/c/ungarbage
we always like people who can fix things (and take good pictures of it all!!)
Hope to see you around more :D

Here is the repair video -  

English:
I had the same problem with my oven and air fryer Cuisinart TOA-60. I took it to the technician, who disassembled it and disconnected the wires from the function switch, but he couldn't find the replacement part. So, I brought it home and got the new switch (FZ31-9E with 11 pins and 7 steps). The problem now is that I don't know how to connect the wires. I asked the technician, and he doesn't remember. Does anyone know where I can find the wiring diagram for this function switch? Or good photos that show how it should be connected?

Spanish:
Tuve ese mismo problema con mi horno y freidor de aire Cuisinart TOA-60, lo llevé con el tecnico quien los desarmó y desconecto los cables del interruptor de funciones pero no pudo conseguir el repuesto, asi que me lo traje a casa, consegué el interruptor nuevo (FZ31-9E de 11 pines y 7 pasos). El problema ahora es que no se cómo conectar los cables, pregunté al técnico y no se recuerda. Alguien sabe donde puedo conseguir el diagrama de coneccion de ese interruptor de funciones? o buenas fotos donde pueda saber como va conectado