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Hoop house with metal roofing  RSS feed

 
Posts: 33
Location: Glasgow, KY zone 6b
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I have a crazy question. Has anyone ever known of a hoop house being built with a metal roof? I'm looking for cheap square footage for a little hay storage but mainly as a barn for my sheep.1 3/8" fencing top rail is easy to find from local suppliers. Obviously, the hoops would need to be closer together(2' centers maybe?) but I would really love to hear from someone who has done it.

We're in southcentral Kentucky where I've only seen 12" of snow twice in my life. So, when we do get a big snow it wouldn't be a big deal to go out and sweep it off. 
 
pollinator
Posts: 1947
Location: Toronto, Ontario
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Sounds like a quonset hut to me, except with those, the corrugated shell is the structural element, if I am not mistaken.

Interesting, though. Please let us know what you decide, and how you make out.

-CK
 
pollinator
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You mentioned pipe, but when you said metal roofing, my first thought was a wood skeleton so the metal panels can be screwed on.

To do this, cut 1/4 " or 3/8" plywood into 4" x 8ft strips. Double stack (but stagger the joints) and screw them together to get a suitable length. 20ft would be easy. Use 2 8ft and one 4ft (x2). If using 3/8" ply you would have a bendable board 3/4" thick x 20 ft long.

The nice part is all the avoided hardware and fasteners needed. Those boards can be screwed into a bottom band board of 2x6s. The metal panels screwed to the laminated plywood you made.
 
pollinator
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I'm not sure of your budget, but would these work?  We've used them successfully in the past:  https://www.versatube.com/building-kits/carports-shelters/stor_ports/
 
pollinator
Posts: 2021
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio,Price Hill 45205
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Wayne, that is a cool idea.
I've been noodling about  cutting strips of plywood or short lengths of 2x4 in arcs that would make up the circumference of a circle.

Your way  seems  easier.
I'm fond of hardboard, it has no glues,holds up amazingly well exposed to weather, is very flexible,and cheap.
It could actually be used instead of the metal roofing.

Another roof that might work is the normal plastic  sheeting, covered with used carpet,to protect the plastic from UV,hail and wind.
 
wayne fajkus
pollinator
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William, i first saw that technique about 20 years ago in a sunset book on greenhouses. Ive kept it in my mind palace.  Lol. Someday i will use it.
 
Jared Blankenship
Posts: 33
Location: Glasgow, KY zone 6b
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Here's the guy that I've talked to. He has no website and only uses facebook. https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100005560245229&lst=100004924170118%3A100005560245229%3A1519822119&sk=photos

The smallest building that he can get is 32'wide. a 32x72 or shorter is $2.75 per square foot just for the hoop kit and I provide the lumber for the walls. Larger that is $2.40 per sq ft. 32'x48'=1536'x$2.75 per sqft=$4224. Then I've still got to put it up and provide all of the lumber. Also, the replacement tarps are $.75 per sq ft right now, which is higher than #1 metal.

But his pictures will give you an idea of what I'm looking to build, I just need something closer to 20'x30'. I would like to have a metal roof so that it's pretty much worry free. I've seen it done with cattle panels but it wouldn't be large enough to suit my needs. My simple mind tells me that there's got to be a way of using top rail for hoops and screw the metal off to them.

Wayne-Thank you for the idea. I've seen this type of truss a long time ago and forgotten about them. I'll do some investigating and see what I come up with. 

 
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Location: Arkansas Ozarks zone 7 alluvial,black,deep loam/clay with few rocks, wonderful creek bottom!
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Jared Blankenship wrote:I have a crazy question. Has anyone ever known of a hoop house being built with a metal roof? I'm looking for cheap square footage for a little hay storage but mainly as a barn for my sheep.1 3/8" fencing top rail is easy to find from local suppliers. Obviously, the hoops would need to be closer together(2' centers maybe?) but I would really love to hear from someone who has done it.

We're in southcentral Kentucky where I've only seen 12" of snow twice in my life. So, when we do get a big snow it wouldn't be a big deal to go out and sweep it off. 



We used a tarped hoop for chickens...it worked great. 
The downside was the tarp won't last forever....and it was very hot inside, even with both ends open.

Friends at Havencroft Farm use them for shelters for a variety of livestock.
This picture I found at their facebook site looks like there is some tin involved. 

I think many of the shelters are tarped or a combination.
They work quite well.
Here's a link to the fb page https://www.facebook.com/Havencroft-Farm-1750335228593822/

EDIT...now I read above that you weren't interested in a hoop with cattle panels



 
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Hi Jared,

I will try to get pictures and post them. We have built two hoop house structures and put metal on them. We bought the hoop benders online. We have two hoop benders on that gives a 20 foot wide hoop and one that makes a 10 foot wide hoop. We first built a 48 foot by 20 foot wide hoop house that we covered with a billboard tarp. That worked okay but we had to replace the tarp after a storm with a new tarp. When we placed those hoops we actually put them in the ground with cement so we couldn't move them easily later. WE used metal fence rail for the hoops and for the three horizontal support rails that went the length of the hoop structure. Last summer we got a great deal on metal siding at our local auction. So we put metal siding the 20 by 48 hoop house. Since couldn't move the arches, it isn't as nice as it could have been as the arches aren't quite all the same height and we had to seal the overlap with some roofing tape but it still keeps the water and wind off much better than the tarps were doing.
We did not use wood at all. We used metal to metal screws that go through the sheet metal into the arches. The metal covered hoop structure did fine even wit h10 inches of snow on it. The hoops are four feet a part. If you were getting regular big snows you might want to go 2 foot apart on the hoops. We are in North Central Ohio.  We keep goats in this big hoop house during kidding season. We used to keep hay in it.

However, the first sheet metal structure we made is a 10 foot by 10 foot chicken coop. We used four hoops and sheet metal. We did not put any wood on the hoops to screw the sheet metal into exIcept on the ends of the arches where the door and window were put in.. We screwed the sheet metal directly into the metal fence rail hoops. It worked great and it makes a very nice strong structure. ONce we got the metal up it really stiffened the entire building up and it is very solid. We have been using this hoop house sheet metal chicken coop for several years now and I am very happy with it. I did set the base of the structure up on a 2"x8" board all the way around, but it is just sitting there. I did the normal building of the hoop house with a metal base that the hoops fasten into with the fence rail connectors that you buy at lowes or home depot. This hoop sheet metal chicken coop has never moved in the wind and has never had a problem shedding snow. It wouldn't even have any leaks if I hadn't reused the metal siding. Since it was reused the metal siding had holes in it from the screws and nails that had previously been in it. You can buy the metal to metal sheet metal screws at Lowes or Home Depot or Menards you just have to be careful and make sure you get the metal to metal ones and not the metal to wood ones. In the picture of the inside of the chicken coop I did use wood to put in roosts and wood to support the roosts.

I am going to build another hoop sheet metal building to make an additional goat house that also holds a round bale feeder this summer.  This will be a structure for the goats to be in in the winter when I can't use rotational grazing.  The tarps on hoop houses don't work well with goats unless you have the tarps above goat rubbing height.

You  don't have to use wood when putting metal on a metal hoop house.  The buildings work well and are pretty easy to put up.  

where the short ends of the metal overlap on the big 20x48 hoop house, we put a bead of silicone in between the metal and then we put the six inch wide butyl roofing tape over the seams. This stopped the leaks. On one side, I didn't put silicone between the metal and the we did still get some leaks. I am going to fix that this summer.

good luck and as I said I will try to get pictures.

Bonnie
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About ten years ago I bought a bender from a vendor on EBay, for producing a 20' diameter hoop. Using 3 pcs of the top rail you refer to. He had worked the arc of the bender out just right. I just took a look at it and, no he has no name on it. But I think he sent a cd with it, If you need that I can try to find it. I did mine 28' long, 2' OC and covered with corrugated polycarbonate. Wound up with more leaks than I wanted due to my bad lap system, so I overlaid 7/16 OSB on the top 1/3,  installed to the tubes with self tapping screws. Then I shingled the osb. So, almost exactly what you envision. The osb bends to this gentle arc fine, if laid lengthwise and staggered. Obviously would not conform if laid the opposite way. Still cheaper than ply, and fine if you cover. If you want to go metal like corrugated, you will have to lay lengthwise also, and you will get leaks unless you can obtain sheets the full length of your building. ( it is the end over end joints that will leak) You can lap the lengthwise joints enough to prevent leaks there. You may be able to get full length sheets from a real steel supplier, not big box.
BTW the link you sent is just a fabric building, there are tons of those online, such as Clear Span etc. Most of quality are to large for you though.
 
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Standard metal sheet wont bend well.  You will find that it will kink if bent to sharply, or splay wider in the middle if on a gentle curve.

Solution 1.  Cut it into short lengths.  Treat them like shingles with a 1 foot overlap.  I think you could get away with 4-6 foot lengths this way.  Test the idea with some old ratty roofing.  This will make for a somewhat drafty building.

Soluiton 2.  Lay it cross ways, so the ridges run the length of the the building.   This will collect snow.

Solution 3.  Run it at a shallow slope obliquely.  This will be a paint in the bum fitting pieces, but it the ridges run at a 10% grade, then in snow and light rain a lot of the water will run off one end where you can collect it.
 
Posts: 16
Location: SW Pennsylvania
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How about a bow roof instead?  http://thehomesteadingboards.com/forums/construction-and-diy-projects-1/a-bow-roof-cabin/
 
Sherwood Botsford
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Ban Dinh wrote:How about a bow roof instead?  http://thehomesteadingboards.com/forums/construction-and-diy-projects-1/a-bow-roof-cabin/



OP wants to use metal roofing.

I dislike shingles.

* petroleum product.

* Last only about 15-25 years.

* Not designed for vertical application.

 
Jared Blankenship
Posts: 33
Location: Glasgow, KY zone 6b
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Thanks everybody! I'm interested in the hoops for economic reasons. I think it would be the quickest, easiest, and most cost efficient method of framing a roof.
Bonnie and Michael, do you know what size you tubing is? I can buy 1 3/8" and 1 5/8" at a local supplier in two different wall thicknesses.
 
Bonnie Johnson
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Hi Jared,

For the buildings that we made, we used the chain link fence top rail that is 1 and 3/8 inch that we got at Lowe's or Home Depot whichever one had it cheaper.  You are supposed to be able to bend the heavier walled conduit that you can pick up in the electrical department, but then you need connectors. The chain link comes with one end smaller so you don't need a connector. The small end slips in to the other end of the fence rail.  We have had the bigger 20 x 48 building up for 7 years and the 10 ft by 10 ft chicken coop has been up for over 3 years. The bigger hoop house went through two billboard tarps and now one winter with metal (8 months with metal ).  The hoops bend really easy, I can bend them myself. I have also made a green 10 ft by 10 ft green house with the metal hoops. Even with the hoops attached to a metal base, I could move the green house around by hand. So when I was building the chicken coop, I was able to move it around by hand by myself to get it set up on the wooden base that I sat it on.

Goodluck!

Bonnie
 
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Location: 54 North BC Canada
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Bonnie Johnson
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I use these fittings for putting the hoops on the metal base and for making corners. 

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Blue-Hawk-Gray-Metal-Steel-Fence-Panel-Clamp-Set/4651615

I put a sheet metal screw in those extra round holes you see in the panel clamp. It makes a goo solid corner and it also holds the hoops on the base very nicely and for a very low price at $1.38.  

When I put the top and side bracing horizontal bars on, I often use hose clamp or I will use metal brackets/braces that you can buy in the building supply area.
 
R Jay
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Came across a picture of a hoop house, where instead of metal roofing, they used vinyl siding to cover the hoop.
Claimed it was cheaper in the long run compared to the cost of good-quality tarps, which had to be replaced
every couple years.

 
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