shorty core replacing bbr with sidewinder

Minor curing burns sound like a safe plan.

Cerbu Ulea wrote:I am sure the design is good , the tests to run the heater I look forward to. Newish town for me here, hardly know anyone. It is quite solid ,bent from a single piece of cut pipe , except the the small piece above the inlet , that could indeed fall if the tape fails. Should l just make small curing burns and monitor the temperatures, or just wait to weld it myself?

I'd say this is the perfect opportunity to get to know the local welder and introduce him (and others) to masonry heaters.  
Also, you know that you can operate the shorty core for testing purposes without a door right?
Light that baby up and let her roar!

ty, I hope this days I finish bell's wall and fire it lightly

a dry stack to count the bricks, I need another 50 pieces

first fire , no door yet , just some twigs
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/oUbld59fH6c
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/VVWQw5yeahA

I mounted the old  door , just had to cut the ash door and reuse it as cleaning hatch, the rest of the frame did fit quite good on the airframe, without obstructing the air slits

Looks like you have a good draught, lots of small fires should see your stove running flat out in no time.

Cerbu;
Nice first fire, but I do have a question.
After watching your video, I noticed that the airframe's upper air outlet is positioned to face the floor.
I can not see the side outlets.
Did you modify his design?

I  made it close to this file , which is his file for 150 , mine being 160 I made them a bit wider, I do not have a air shutter flaps for after the burn yet

Ok, it is larger than I  am used to.
Are the side outlets also oversized?

the outer frame sizes are 36 width   by 45 cm high, the square pipe is 5/5 cm , the 4/6 cm that was planed for the frame  I made L angle used as  T profile to hold roofs splits

my roof is not mortared yet, just fire splits resting on t bars with superwool , I want to replace two splits with a piece of ceramic glass to take a short peek , see if flames came out from the exit port, what temperature is at roof's level?

With my Shorty, the top of the bell runs around 500°F or 260°C
Mine is a 6" with the riser pointed towards the front wall.

I got the glass out, nothing to see there at least with small burns, pitch black ; added another sheet of superwool on top . Here is the exit, barely noticeable steam
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/LvE0BgEENX0

Half filed the fire box , the darn tv was on ; https://www.youtube.com/shorts/VtTaDkdyoG0
steam is coming out https://www.youtube.com/shorts/9w1r--0epXk

Difficult to say from my arm chair but, are you sure that is steam?

there where 2 degrees C  , It was transparent to white , I just think it is steam as I increased the fuel and the bell finishes drying , tomorrow will be 2 thirds full. I will record in silence to listen if the roar is good. Please tell me if a k probe inserted at the chimney's vertical start is good, or where else to measure , there is no pipe exposed, all flue is in-wall bricks

Cerbu Ulea wrote:there where 2 degrees C  , It was transparent to white , I just think it is steam as I increased the fuel and the bell finishes drying , tomorrow will be 2 thirds full. I will record in silence to listen if the roar is good.

This amount of visable  water vapor is quite normal while drying a masonry heater, given the low temperature outside. Keep in mind, fuel in the firebox loaded not higher than the port. And a bit away from the rear wall, this will give the best results. To my eye, the fuel could be more compact. The roar of a Shorty core is not as loud as compared to a first-generation batchrocket, although it's still very much there.

Cerbu Ulea wrote:Please tell me if a k probe inserted at the chimney's vertical start is good, or where else to measure , there is no pipe exposed, all flue is in-wall bricks

A k-thermocoupler in the start of vertical is good, normally I use a pen thermometer and place it at eye level though the chimney's wall. If you have a digital 2-channel thermometer, another one high in the bell is also a good indication.

you mean that ? https://www.amazon.in/Digital-type-thermometer-degree-Celsius/dp/B07DZLH1VH
I already have  one, I can shove it right now in the old unused flue damper , I do not close it anymore , you said closing the intake in the airframe it's better, a brick does it for now

LE: 40.2 C , the intake is closed hours ago, in full fire will be of interest what it will show

is there the roar you know? https://www.youtube.com/shorts/KF6lO16Ve1I
the smoke /steam is low https://www.youtube.com/shorts/64-sAlZ1mkw , gas temperature in the open damper around 50 C, the bell heats fine, the terracotta wall reached about 40 C(i did not install outside control yet, left the bypass fixed a thin crack open)

LE: the end of the burn temperatures , it was already warm from the days before https://www.youtube.com/shorts/H6zZ81-n59E , I think it requires the second  skin, splits are prepared

Cerbu Ulea wrote:is there the roar you know? https://www.youtube.com/shorts/KF6lO16Ve1I
the smoke /steam is low https://www.youtube.com/shorts/64-sAlZ1mkw , gas temperature in the open damper around 50 C, the bell heats fine, the terracotta wall reached about 40 C(i did not install outside control yet, left the bypass fixed a thin crack open)

It's a low rumbling, could be louder, I'd think. Gas temperature in the chimney could be higher, 58 ºC is the bare minimum to avoid condensation. Steam from the chimney is (mostly) absent, which means the heater is getting dry now. The system clearly works, congratulations!

Cerbu Ulea wrote:LE: the end of the burn temperatures , it was already warm from the days before https://www.youtube.com/shorts/H6zZ81-n59E , I think it requires the second  skin, splits are prepared

The outside of the heater is reaching 70 ºC and more, a second skin is required, in my opinion. Maybe not even splits, I would go for full bricks. What are the outside temperatures in a normal winter, where you live?

before I moved here 3+ years ago there where real winters, with heavy snow , ice on the lakes up to a foot thick , mostly below freezing 4 month , with lowest of -25 C, so it is possible , but I doubt it , last years the winters got mild little snow , 0 deg C to +5 , only small freezing gusts .
I am very glad with this core you designed , thanks a lot

biggest load yet, little to no steam
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/4B-0u1zGoXM
one fire a day for now at between 2 and 10 degrees C, this load's heat I think will last 36 hours, welder coming in a couple of weeks

I have an experiment going in my shorty, I  used some old petroleum coals with spruce on top , they are for other types of stoves , they do not burn the right way but they still give off heat, after the spruce burned I left the inlet mid way , and hours later the egg coals are alive

I got  a cheapish 100 euros  welding machine , entry level, it has both rod and wire ( mma and mig ) ; next week I'll try welding the frame , with the 1mm wire what value of amps should I set?

Most welders have a chart that gives recommendations for wire speed and amps for the thickness of the metal your working with.
Other than that, watching some videos and experimenting on a scrap piece will teach you lots.