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Western Montana gardener and botanist in zone 6a according to 2012 zone update.
Gardening on lakebed sediments with 7 inch silty clay loam topsoil, 7 inch clay accumulation layer underneath, have added sand in places.
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Standing on the shoulders of giants. Giants with dirt under their nails
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A build too cool to miss:Mike's GreenhouseA great example:Joseph's Garden
All the soil info you'll ever need:
Redhawk's excellent soil-building series
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Western Montana gardener and botanist in zone 6a according to 2012 zone update.
Gardening on lakebed sediments with 7 inch silty clay loam topsoil, 7 inch clay accumulation layer underneath, have added sand in places.
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"Hundreds of years from now it will not matter what my bank account was, the sort of house I lived in or the type of car I drove... But the world may be different because I did something so bafflingly crazy that it becomes a tourist destination"
Mike Jay wrote:A relatively unheard of N fixer that I planted this spring and am liking so far is northern bayberry. It's a shrub that has waxy berries. The height is pretty variable according to the nursery at 3-8'. One really nice feature is that it's semi-evergreen. It's a deciduous shrub with larger leaves (kind of like an oak) and they turn burgundy in the fall and hang on until spring when the new growth appears. I'm using it as part of a screen from the road so that I have some privacy in the spring. The berries are good for the birds and you can make candles from them. One other name for it is "candleberry".
Standing on the shoulders of giants. Giants with dirt under their nails
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Iterations are fine, we don't have to be perfect
Trace Oswald if you use them in guilds around your fruit trees and don't manage them heavily, in a couple years you won't be able to harvest your fruit without a suit of armor. [/quote wrote:
Do they spread by suckering? Our two year old Sea Buckthorns are nicely formed with 1 main leader. How do they respond to a major pruning? Do the send up suckers all around them?
Trace Oswald wrote:I grow autumn Olive, sea berry, and siberian pea shrub. On my land, sea berry spreads like wild fire and it's thorns are "impressive". If you want to harvest any of your trees, my recommendation would be to use sea berry as part of a living fence or as a clump in a chicken area that you don't venture into. I really like the berries and the chickens love them but if you use them in guilds around your fruit trees and don't manage them heavily, in a couple years you won't be able to harvest your fruit without a suit of armor. If you grow them as a hedge, you can keep them from spreading by mowing or a barrier and harvest berries from the edges.
Tj Jefferson wrote:...they plant two trees in a hole, one is a nurse plant.
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A build too cool to miss:Mike's GreenhouseA great example:Joseph's Garden
All the soil info you'll ever need:
Redhawk's excellent soil-building series
Iterations are fine, we don't have to be perfect
2
my male seaberry got split by the snow last winter so i cut it. sent up probably 20 new shoots in a 5ft. circle from the stump. i mowed all but the strongest 1 and that one is already 2ft tall. if you like autumn olive minus the invasiveness , goumi is a good option. much easier to control and flavor is similar. I've been growing comfrey around the base of my goumi and they both are growing well together. like A.O , goumi are easy to grow from cuttings.S Bengi wrote:My male seaberry root suckers popped up at distances 5x the height of plant. And I don't even think I pruned the plant. At 1st I thought they were seedlings, until I tried to transplant one and saw that the 'cluster of seedlings' were all attached and as I followed it root growing at the woodchip-soil interface I found even more. And the other end of the root terminated at the male seaberry plant. And that left me a bit sad.
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Do you know what they use as a nurse plant?
Standing on the shoulders of giants. Giants with dirt under their nails
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