hand sewing knit or stretch fabric?

My sewing machine won't handle stretch fabric (it's 103 years old, it's set in its ways and I'm not going to try to change it), but I was thinking of maybe there's a hand sewing stitch that can handle knit or stretch fabric.  

Any ideas on how to find out if this is real or just a dream?

Jay Angler had some success on underwear here : https://permies.com/wiki/167224/pep-textiles/Sew-pair-panties-boxers-briefs#1466905 Apparently there is a link to a video somewhere on Permies! I'm still looking, with a view to making underwear like Jay.

Do you mean something other than the "stretch/herringbone" stitch?  
https://youmakeitsimple.com/2020/05/03/sewing-by-hand-most-important-stitches-to-know/

This is the stitch I used to complete my BB in homemade underwear here:
https://permies.com/wiki/167224/pep-textiles/Sew-pair-panties-boxers-briefs#1466905

Looking for videos I found the first part of this one for herringbone stitch:



She actually uses it for hemming, so the outer stitch is a bit small so as to be less visible.

This one shows the overlock stitch: what I would call blanket stitch which would be an alternative:



I suspect either of these would be OK for stretch fabrics. I think that you might get away with a back stitch as well - that has a natural give to it because of the overlap in the stitch.

Check out the Alabama Stitch Book, by Natalie Chanin

She has at least 4 books about sewing Jersey knit fabrics by hand. Each of the books have several great pattern and stitching techniques and embroidery ideas.

I'm thinking the blanket stitch won't give you a stretchy seam.

I second Ryan on the Alabama Chanin books. They suggest a lot of different stitches for sewing stretch knits. I just pulled my copy of the first book out and see that the basics she suggests are zig zag chain stitch. cross-stitch, or parallel whipstitch. The parallel whipstitch looks a lot like blanket stitch, but without catching the thread under the needle to give the line of thread at the fabric edge.

It depends how close fitted the garments are. It they're stretch fabric but loose so there's no need for the stitching to stretch, backstitch would work. Anything with minimal or negative ease would need a stretchable stitch for sure.

We have the same sewing machine. After my electric one broke prematurely I decided to go analog. But like you now, there's no fancy settings like zig zag, buttonhole, stretch stitch.

I have to do the fancy stuff by hand. I've sewn elastic on a couple pairs of panties with hand sewn fly stitch as shared above. It takes some time but it's not bad for small projects.

This week I'm going to finally sew some buttons and buttonholes on a dress I've been wearing pinned together, hah! I guess this is what they mean by slow fashion...

I often use a regular straight stitch on a sewing machine. I just stretch the fabric as I sew, so the stitch is looser and has give to it. I'm wearing shorts right now with a waistband hemmed like that.

r ranson wrote:My sewing machine won't handle stretch fabric (it's 103 years old, it's set in its ways and I'm not going to try to change it), but I was thinking of maybe there's a hand sewing stitch that can handle knit or stretch fabric.  

Any ideas on how to find out if this is real or just a dream?

I see here many suggestions for stitches with 'give' (or 'stretch'). But I'm not sure if that's the answer to your question ...

You say 'my sewing machine won't handle stretch fabric', to me that sounds like something goes wrong when you try sewing stretch fabrics with your old sewing machine. For example the thread breaks, or the needle breaks, ... If something like that is the case, my advice would be to try a special needle for stretch fabrics (with a somewhat blunt point).

Sometimes the sewing machine can't handle knit fabric because the fabric will sink into the hole of the plate or the bobbin thread won't loop around the needle resulting in skipped stitches. Using certain type of needle and threads makes a big difference, as well as manipulation like slightly stretching the fabric while sewing. Basically stable knits like cotton interlock and double knits can be handled like woven on a regular sewing machine. But maybe a treadle machine is really different, I don't know.

Chanin's book shows many hand stitches as part of the design feature. If you just want to make a basic tee shirt without any hand sewing stitches showing, then maybe you can try three different basics ones: back stitches for shoulders and side seams; slip or catch stitches for hems and french binding for neckline then stitch in the ditch. Pressing the knit fabric before hemming and after completion will make the shirt look more polished too.

The main reason why my machine won't handle stretch fabric because it predates that kind of fabric by almost 50 years.  Lots of small factors all build up to make it not work like how it has trouble catching the bobbin thread with any needle other than a sharp (I think they call them microtex over here).  May mentioned some of the other reasons.  There are ways to make it work but meh, it's like asking a horse to start laying eggs - not worth the bother.  Much easier to just hand stitch those garments.  If I could figure out a good stitch.  

I've done some back stitching with fabric that has some stretch, but I was wondering if this would make too stiff a seam for stretchier fabrics.  

I've had a little go at remaking an old long sleeved top made out of cotton jersey material into a pair of knickers inspired by jay's BB here.
I cheated and used the side seams on the top as the side seams on the knickers, and the waist hem as (upside down) the waist band! This means they are a little baggy, but not absurdly so. I used some strips cut from the arms to wrap the legholes and double fabric on the gusset. I didn't make as neat a job as Jay on the leghole edging and they are a little loose, but don't seem to ride up my bum cheeks like I was expecting so as a pair of knickers they are functional (which as a top it wasn't since the under arms were badly torn).
I did one leghole with herringbone stitch and the other with wrap stitch. Since I was sewing through so many layers of fabric, the wrap stitch wasn't as quick as you'd have thought, and I think the end effect of the herringbone is neater. I've only worn the knickers in anger one day and both legholes were equally stretchy and comfortable.
I couldn't be bothered to find some elastic to slip through the waistband, so I have used some of the seams off the old top, trimmed and sewn together to make a tie cord and slit two button holes at the front to insert it. The cord is a bit long, so I'll need to cut it once I've worn it a few times and worked out what length is least likely to get lost inside the waist.

As regards back stitch; it won't be as stretchy as some of the other stitches, however it is the stitch traditionally used on English smocks, so for limited stretch fabrics would be fine, or for the side seams on these type of knickers, I think.

Nancy Reading wrote:

I've had a little go at remaking an old long sleeved top made out of cotton jersey material into a pair of knickers inspired by jay's BB here.

I am honored that I inspired you! Yes, they're not the same as the store-bought with elastic and spandex, but I'm finding mine very comfortable to wear. I'm thinking it's that the fabric is thicker that helps with them not riding up.

I still feel this is an excellent "upcycling" project that can get people practicing hand sewing stitches, are comfy and useful, but since they aren't something we visibly wear, if the stitches aren't perfect, who cares!

r ranson wrote:My sewing machine won't handle stretch fabric (it's 103 years old, it's set in its ways and I'm not going to try to change it), but I was thinking of maybe there's a hand sewing stitch that can handle knit or stretch fabric.  

Any ideas on how to find out if this is real or just a dream?

So which stitch did you decide was best?