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Critique my mobile coop

 
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Location: Ohio
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Seeking constructive criticism and any suggestions for improvement on this mobile coop and run.

Housing is for 11 total layer chickens comprised of 10 hens and 1 suspected rooster.

I'm in Northeast Ohio, hot summers here are into the 90-95F range. I believe we're USDA zone 6a so we get below zero but not too bad.

Design Summary

Run dimensions: 8x10x5.5 (ft)
Coop dimensions: 4x8x4 (ft)

Built up from a square 4x4 frame.

The coop is raised off the ground level frame by about 2ft.

Roof is simple shed-style roof with a pitch of approximately 3:1 using semi-transparent corrugated poly sheets on 24" OC supports.

Run is wrapped in 2x4 welded wire. Run access door is covered in 1/2in hardware cloth.

Coop framing is done with 2x4 for the 4 vertical posts, primary horizontal members and floor framing is in 2x3. Roofing frame is all 1.75x1.5in (2x4 ripped in half). The goal was to reduce weight in the top to prevent it from being very top heavy.

Run framing is entirely 1.75x1.5in.

Concerns/Questions
Should I open up the top of the sides (the triangular portion) to increase ventilation?

Planned Improvements
Convert to external nesting boxes

Run a 10" bedding retainment board full width of coop and raise exit door and ramp up above it. This is all about better supporting deep bedding.

Replace single horizontal roosting bar with ladder-style roost bars.

Wrap bottom 2-3ft of run with 1/2" hardware cloth.

Replace tarp with more poly roof panels, either fully transparent or semi-transparent.

Side windows for additional ventilation in the summer, I'm thinking the size would be 12x12in or 12x16in.

Move the wheels back so they are beyond the rear of the frame to improve mobility.
Side view looks like this now -l---o-l but I would change it to look like this -l----l-o
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rocket scientist
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Hi Sean;
Looks really good already!
Here is what I have noticed.
I would put larger wheels on the back, it looks like it would skid instead of roll if the ground is sloped.
I would add a diagonal brace on each lower corner to stiffen them up.
I have heard you want 1/4" hardware cloth to keep out weasels.

Great job!
 
Sean Kibler
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thomas rubino wrote:Hi Shawn;
Looks really good already!
Here is what I have noticed.
I would put larger wheels on the back, it looks like it would skid instead of roll if the ground is sloped.
I would add a diagonal brace on each lower corner to stiffen them up.
I have heard you want 1/4" hardware cloth to keep out weasels.

Great job!



Thanks for the feedback Thomas!

I do have plans to improve the wheels because that has been an issue given my property is all sloped with some terracing. I had ultimately planned on using retractable wheels and the current configuration is intended to be temporary. I recently discovered an old YouTube video of someone that used trailer jacks retrofit with pneumatic tires and I am considering trying that. Alternatively I may just move the wheels back so they sit closer to or beyond the edge of the main frame.

All that said I am pushing the limit of this wheel configuration and am thinking of at least adding two more wheels for stability and durability (one on the inside of each side).

More bracing will be added, very good call. I had some in the front and removed them while iterating on the trailer tongue.

Is 1/4" recommended over 1/2" or are you saying just something smaller than the 2x4in welded wire?

Given the gaps I'll have if I keep a fixed wheel system in place I wouldn't bother going 1/4in over 1/2" but maybe there's an argument if I switch to a retractable wheel system where the frame can rest fully in contact with the ground.

Thanks again for the feedback it is greatly appreciated!
 
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I would remove those angled boards and the front board directly beneath the roof entirely and replace them with hardware cloth.  Ventilation is the most important criteria for keeping chickens healthy in my experience.  1 sq ft of ventilation per bird is the usual recommendation.  More is better as long as you have a draft free place for them to roost, and it looks like you do.
 
pollinator
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Weasels can fit through a gap that is a little smaller than 1”. So 1/2” wire should keep them out, but 1/4” is certainly more secure. We just had a member post here in the chickens forum about multiple chickens being killed in one night by a weasel, so it’s nothing to sniff at.

From a heat perspective, the translucent roof will heat up the coop during the summer and there is little ventilation to let it escape. Adding windows up near the roof line will help greatly with that.
 
master pollinator
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In homesteading, something is always needing to be fixed. The item always on the back burner is replacing the pneumatic tires on my garden cart. I suggest that you use hard tires for your tractor... if you want it to move.
 
thomas rubino
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Well, Sean, I raise pigs, not chickens.
But I recently read here at Permies that weasels can crawl through a 1/2" gap!
They decimated a flock in no time.
I will see if I can locate that post and share it with you.


Here we go)   https://permies.com/t/202580/Weasel-Killed-Chickens
After reading that thread it seems 1/2"  hardware cloth is enough to keep out most critters.
 
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I echo the use of hardware cloth. In fact i recommend that it extend below the bottom boards to leave sharp edges to deter predators digging under the sides. If your tractor doesn't sit flat on the ground (and even if it does) predators will definitely go under.
 
Rusticator
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My primary coop is not mobile, but I did go with 1/2" hardware cloth. We've not had any of the local weasels get in - but quite a few snakes have. While the black snakes don't seem to like things that peck at them, they truly adore the eggs, and we killed one with 4 big lumps in its middle!

And I'll second Joylynn's advice on the tires. That was the first thing to go on my wagon, and I think that's the reason hubby stopped moving our chicken tractor around. Inflatable tires suck, for things like this, because not only do they inevitably blow out at the worst possible time (we can just chalk that up to Murphy's Law!), but when the tire is on necessarily movable livestock living quarters, changing that tire can become a challenge. I'd advise the fattest, largest diameter solid tires you can get your hands on, for this job.

I'll agree 100% with those who've mentioned the increased ventilation, as well. That's a year-round need.

I LOVE the clear corrugated roof (with the extra ventilation assumed), because it will increase both the warmth for the birds comfort, and light, for extended egg production, at least until the snow builds. If you keep it cleared off snow, it will make all the difference in the world, in naturally extending your laying seasons.
 
Sean Kibler
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Thank you all for the feedback so far, I will replace the front and side trim panels with hardware cloth as soon as possible.

Interestingly, just a few days ago a mink farm a few hours away from me was broken into and tens of thousands of mink were let loose. Reports were made that there were so many mink getting run over on the highway that snow plows were used to clear the roadways.

I will keep the solid tires in mind when I change my tire configuration.

I do have a mix of 1/4in and 1/2in hardware cloth so maybe I'll make mixed strategical use of both. I've already used 1/2in to close the gaps of the roof overhang.

I will leave this lesson learned for anyone who comes by that is building a mobile coop like this. Waterers with the nipple are a pretty crucial choice for the coop. The waterers that have the trough ring with open access to the water have to be level which means at a minimum you'll be forced to hang the waterer and even then water will be spilled. I found that even with just 11 birds I was refilling the 4qt size daily and almost all of that was being spilled into the coop. I don't need to tell any of you the problems with this but for anyone who comes along new to chicken keeping this will cause numerous problems not the least of which will be health problems due to wet living conditions and wet freezing chickens in the winter.

I invested in a heated waterer with the nipples, trained the chickens on it within a  couple of days while maintaining access to the other waterer. Even once they all learned to use the nipples I noticed I can now go a week without having to top off their water in a 2 gallon capacity waterer.
 
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Looks like their roosting perch is a flat 2x4? I'd replace that with a tree limb a couple inches around. Much better for their feet.
 
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Hi Sean,

I live in North Central Ohio....Knox County the most southeast corner.  I don't know about predators in your area,, but at my farm, the raccoons would be under you bottom frame of the coop in no time.  I have had raccoons going after my chickens in broad daylight.  But at night, they will go under the chicken tractor in no time.  

I have an amusing story from when I lived in Arkansas over 10 years ago. I had a very nice chicken tractor/mobile coo with nesting boxes. We had just moved there. I heard a ruckus at at night, went out in my nightgown saw that the raccoons had managed to find a spot under the 2 x 4 frame where they could dig a little and get in the mobile coop. The had killed a couple of chickens and had stuffed one of them in the hole they had come in through so they (the raccoons ) could not get back out easily.  There were two raccoons in there. All I could do because we didn't even have everything unpacked was open the lid of the chicken tractor and hope the freaking raccoons left. While the raccoons and chickens just glared at me standing there in my night gown and barefooted helplessness.  Didn't even have a BB gun.....

My chicken tractors here in Ohio are much better in there next generation or so. I have fold-able wings made from wire shelving.  You know the stuff that is white that you make shelves out of that you can buy at home depot or lowes.  For some reason, the predators have not figured out how to go under the shelving to go under the frame of my chicken tractors.  I have a very uneven yard with lots of low spots and what not that could let a enterprising predator get in the tractor, but since i put my wire shelving foldable wings on my chicken tractor, I have had no problems.  I fold up the front wire shelving and hold it in place with a bungee cord when I move my chicken tractor.    That is for my 5 foot by 10 foot tractor.  

I am getting ready to build a 10 foot by 10 foot tractor that will function in one of my rotational grazing pastures for my goats.  It will have wings. I think the predators go up to the edge of the tractor and try to dig in but find that they are standing on the wire and give up.  I have no proof but live chickens. Also I use rabbit wire or hardware cloth, not chicken wire.

Since I have a lot of problems with raccoons and now foxes, I have had to come up with a way to make a chicken tractor work.  I am a little worried about the black bears that are moving into Ohio.  I am not sure my chicken tractor can handle a black bear.  People are seeing Black bears near my area.  

The fold-able wings will stop most pedators and for some reason, it helps stop me from running over chicks....

good luck,

hope this helps.
 
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Good evening, Sean.

For your wheels, how about a pivoting wheel?
Something like what the "crazy bavarian gardener" has on his chicken tractor.


Crazy Bavarian Gardener chicken tractor wheel design
 
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1/2" hardware cloth is much cheaper and is plenty sufficient for your needs.  If you want to save some money & weight, I'd only use it on the lower half.  The welded wire is large enough to keep out things that might get up there- hawks/etc.  The 1/2" hardware cloth will keep out smaller critters and also keep raccoons from reaching in to grab and kill your chickens.

I definitely agree with having larger wheels to make it easier to move.  Looks like they are on fixed axles.  Is that a gap I see in the back?  That would be a problem.

Love the overall setup.  I've been using a smaller chicken tractor in my backyard for 5 years now and it has worked quite well.  Understand that you will need to park the structure in winter due to wet/snow/icy ground.  I add clear plastic sheeting around most of the structure (particularly the windward sides) and hold it in place with furring strips.  It is then easy to remove in the spring when you want to start moving again.  Be sure to leave ventilation areas with the plastic- the idea is to protect against water/wind.  Your chickens can handle dry cold conditions.

If you are also a gardener, then understand that section of grass will be destroyed where you park, so turn that lemon into lemonade.  I add a bunch of fall leaves into the area.  Is provides some amount of insulation, but also combines with the chicken poo and scratching to break down into an excellent garden supplement in the spring.
 
Cujo Liva
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james keller wrote:I echo the use of hardware cloth. In fact i recommend that it extend below the bottom boards to leave sharp edges to deter predators digging under the sides. If your tractor doesn't sit flat on the ground (and even if it does) predators will definitely go under.



I'm afraid I've never seen a decent design of a chicken tractor that also has any form of fenced skirt.  With a fixed coop/run setup, you can have a skirt that extends down into the ground or on the surface around it to prevent digging.  That is a trade-off to have a mobile setup.  I'm in the same general region as the OP and have 5 years experience with a similar setup.  Digging hasn't been a problem here.  The only loss I've had was a hawk attack when they were free ranging in my backyard.

 
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I think its a pretty good build and most of the improvements you listed would be a good idea. I do worry about the translucent roof allowing it to get too hot in summer though. Definitely need more ventilation, and that can be tricky if you have winter to deal with, but I dont remember where you said you are at. Also, not sure if the ladder style roost is necessary. They will probably all just fight for a spot on the top rung anyway. I have 2 at the same level and they fight for a spot on the same one…

Here’s our mobile coop. 4x8 and designed to be pushed the yard. Works really well for 8-10 birds in summer but was a horrible design for our winters. Had to make some emergency modifications in the middle of winter the last few years but we have a new Woods Fresh Air coop now. Can’t find good pictures of it from summer but here it is “winterized”. Will still use the mobile coop in spring but done trying to get through winters with it.
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I'll second the idea of a ladder roosting area. If you happen to have large tree branches, that'll help, but a flat space is wonderful for the birds to keep their toes warm!.

Yes, ventilation near the top in the triangular section.
You're getting excellent advice on that!

I'd probably ask local chicken keepers about the nest-boxes, though. Down here (Coastal Texas 9a) we have to worry about heat and chicken tolerances. Those offset nest-boxes tend to turn into mini-ovens in the summer heat, down here. I know right now you're probably dealing with hens who are sleeping and pooping in them, as hens are contrary critters.

Hardware cloth is a staple in poultry yards because it's so useful at keeping out-things out and in-things in. Snakes shouldn't be as big a concern this time of year, but the other predators will be working double-time to make up for it. You know better what your specific situation is, so you should do as you think best in protective measures. There comes a time when yo have to decide about the value versus the cost. It'll be different for everyone and in every situation.

It's sad to hear about that fiasco at the mink farm. I hope you don't have any visitors from that.

You have built a wonderful coop! It's attractive and has enough space to keep your birds happy and healthy. I love the appearance, and know the design will only improve as you tweak it.  
 
Sean Kibler
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Jeremiah Pedro wrote:Good evening, Sean.

For your wheels, how about a pivoting wheel?
Something like what the "crazy bavarian gardener" has on his chicken tractor.


Crazy Bavarian Gardener chicken tractor wheel design



Jeremiah,

I had seen that video during my planning! My initial plan was to copy that design or do something based on it. The fixed wheels were one of a few compromises I made to ensure that I got the coop done before the weather turned. Also, I did lose one bird to an unknown predator and that caused me to expedite my timeline of getting them sleeping in a closed space off the ground.

In the meantime I discovered someone on YouTube who used trailer jacks retrofitted with large rubber tires and I'm really liking the benefits of that even though it'll be much more expensive than the Crazy Bavarian Gardener's design.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OBfMV-5aGXY



Love the overall setup.  I've been using a smaller chicken tractor in my backyard for 5 years now and it has worked quite well.  Understand that you will need to park the structure in winter due to wet/snow/icy ground.  I add clear plastic sheeting around most of the structure (particularly the windward sides) and hold it in place with furring strips.  It is then easy to remove in the spring when you want to start moving again.  Be sure to leave ventilation areas with the plastic- the idea is to protect against water/wind.  Your chickens can handle dry cold conditions.



Cujo,

I am planning on making use of them for ground clearing! Stack those functions! I do have some plastic sheeting and plenty of tarps so I'll be sure to give them some wind protection. Thank you for all of your feedback!


I live in North Central Ohio....Knox County the most southeast corner.  I don't know about predators in your area,, but at my farm, the raccoons would be under you bottom frame of the coop in no time.  I have had raccoons going after my chickens in broad daylight.  But at night, they will go under the chicken tractor in no time.  



Bonnie,

Nice to know of a semi-local permie! I'm in Canton (Jackson Township). I have a red fox that dens nearby, racoons out the wazoo, the usual aerial predators and the biggest coyote I've ever seen. In fact a friend who is an avid hunter told me he thinks what I saw as a giant coyote is actually crossed with a dog. Either way, it would make short work of my flock.

I really like your idea with the shelf wings! I will keep that in mind as an improvement for next year. I'm willing to take my chances for now. I work from home and can keep an eye on the chickens. I do plan on at least making sure the frame makes contact with the ground all the way around so that larger predators will be forced to dig under and hopefully I'd be able to catch them if it were during the day. If they get in at night then they still have to get passed the locks or chew a hole through the door. If they do that they've earned a meal.

Thanks for the tips!


I think its a pretty good build and most of the improvements you listed would be a good idea. I do worry about the translucent roof allowing it to get too hot in summer though. Definitely need more ventilation, and that can be tricky if you have winter to deal with, but I dont remember where you said you are at. Also, not sure if the ladder style roost is necessary. They will probably all just fight for a spot on the top rung anyway. I have 2 at the same level and they fight for a spot on the same one…



Brody,

I had the same concern about the semi-transparent roofing causing the interior to get too hot in the summer. I figured I would just use a tarp or fabricate a secondary roof that can be easily removed to block the sun out during the hottest months. I'm in Northeast Ohio so it gets warm here but not like in the south, I believe our average temps are mid to high 80s. Scorchers here are in the 90s. I have decent shade options as well.

What were the troubles with your mobile coop for winter use?

Thanks for your feedback!


I'd probably ask local chicken keepers about the nest-boxes, though. Down here (Coastal Texas 9a) we have to worry about heat and chicken tolerances. Those offset nest-boxes tend to turn into mini-ovens in the summer heat, down here. I know right now you're probably dealing with hens who are sleeping and pooping in them, as hens are contrary critters.



Kristine,

Thank you for all of your advice! I have some friend that farm so even if they don't know they'll know others to ask for advice about the external nesting boxes.

I'm not sure if I'm going to do the external nesting boxes this year or wait until next year. If I leave them on the interior I'm hoping once I install dividers and make that shelf a real nesting box they'll stop pooping in there. I plan on doing one or the other very soon since they are sleeping there and I don't want them to get too used to that.
 
Brody Ekberg
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Sean Kibler wrote:

Brody,

I had the same concern about the semi-transparent roofing causing the interior to get too hot in the summer. I figured I would just use a tarp or fabricate a secondary roof that can be easily removed to block the sun out during the hottest months. I'm in Northeast Ohio so it gets warm here but not like in the south, I believe our average temps are mid to high 80s. Scorchers here are in the 90s. I have decent shade options as well.

What were the troubles with your mobile coop for winter use?

Thanks for your feedback!



Yea, a tarp would probably be good enough. I rig up a tarp like an awning off the side of the mobile coop when we get 90s here. They dont handle wind well but otherwise are very convenient.

The mobile coop would have been tolerable in winter if I build the roof to fit better (it opens like a clamshell), had a taller roof (more headspace for chicken and room for ventilation) and more ventilation. It is about 4’ tall (inside) in the back and 2’ tall in the front. The nest boxes are in the front and the roosts are in the back, only about 1’ off the ground so the chickens have some head space above them. The majority of windows are back by the roosts which is great for summertime. But in winter it makes for drafty roosts. They were getting frostbite in the coop our first winter so i blocked off the windows and it actually made it worse because then there was moisture buildup. So then I had to cut extra vents as high up above their heads as possible mid winter. That helped but there were still just too many things I had to “rig up” temporarily for winter that I decided, for me and the chickens, do dedicate that to warm weather use, brooding and/or quarantining and build a Woods Fresh Air coop as their more permanent winter housing.

It is nice in summer though to be able to push the coop around every month or two to get the chickens to fresh ground. Open yard in spring and under trees in the heat of summer. I use 4’ tall plastic snow fencing (can see in one of my previous pictures) to make paddocks for them and it works great.

 
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Hi Sean,
That sounds and looks like a pretty cool coop. People have already suggested adding the vents at the top, which I would have suggested as well.

One idea that I absolutely loved about my mobile coop was the floor. I did not make it solid. I made it out of 1/2" hardware cloth. I have seen some made from slats. I wish I had made it out of 1" hardware cloth because sometimes the poop and feathers would get stuck, but most of it just fell out on the ground. This means I did not have to clean the floor very often. I did not have to worry about water spilling as it went on the ground, and it added a lot of ventilation to the coop as well. When I moved the coop there was a well fertilized spot left behind. I moved my coop every couple of days.
 
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Location: Iron River MI zone 3b
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Matt McSpadden wrote:Hi Sean,

One idea that I absolutely loved about my mobile coop was the floor. I did not make it solid. I made it out of 1/2" hardware cloth. I have seen some made from slats. I wish I had made it out of 1" hardware cloth because sometimes the poop and feathers would get stuck, but most of it just fell out on the ground. This means I did not have to clean the floor very often. I did not have to worry about water spilling as it went on the ground, and it added a lot of ventilation to the coop as well. When I moved the coop there was a well fertilized spot left behind. I moved my coop every couple of days.



I actually did the same with my mobile coop. But by the time the chickens were laying eggs they were also laying poops far too big to fit through 1/2” holes. Plus winter was coming, so I put cardboard over the hardware cloth and buried it in bedding. Never removed the cardboard since.

Beware if you do the same thing but use 1” wite mesh, the chickens could damage their toes and feet walking on it and weasels can easily fit through 1” spaces.
 
Matt McSpadden
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Location: Central Maine (Zone 5a)
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Beware if you do the same thing but use 1” wite mesh, the chickens could damage their toes and feet walking on it and weasels can easily fit through 1” spaces.



In my case, I had it surrounded by an electric fence that seemed to keep away all land predators (had a hawk land inside once).
 
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