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What Mulberry varieties do best?

 
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My Pakistani mulberry for years has not flowered or had any fruit just leaves.

Does someone else grow a different variety with more success?? Soil is clay with wood chip mulch overlay on top on a wet slope that admittedly drys out a lot in the summer no irrigation. Do mulberry like it wet?

Zone 8a northwestern Washington grow zone. In a rainshadow.
 
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To set fruit, a female mulberry tree requires a nearby male tree. You might graft a male branch into the female tree.
 
Dalton Dycer
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Joseph Lofthouse wrote:To set fruit, a female mulberry tree requires a nearby male tree. You might graft a male branch into the female tree.



What varieties do you grow?
Do you have a male I could buy from you?
Also does the variety matter, like will an Indian mulberry cross with a Pakistani mulberry?
If someone else wants to send me a cutting off their male I can send postage. I’d really like to get a mulberry. I’ve eaten 100s dried from Turkey but never a fresh one locally cultivated!
 
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Female trees should still produce fruits, but without seeds if male flowers are not present.
I have Pakistani Mulberry that I planted in spring and it's growing quite well, taking into consideration hat it has large leaves that would indicate a plant that gas higher demand for water. I also planted Persian Mulberry that just loves my climate and grew 15 long branches from a single trunk.
I'm watering them twice a week 20 l per tree.
If your tree is not setting flowers it's possible you have some deficiency in the soil, boron?
 
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We started for our only Mulberry tree (female) about 50 cuttings and 40 survived.
It's a Turkish breed and has huge fruits (seedless because there is no male around)

If you got cuttings make sure you plant in their dormancy time and cover the pot with a clear plastic hood to keep the inside humidity high.
I usually leave 1 leaf on the top and strip all other nodes..
 
Dalton Dycer
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Cristobal Cristo wrote:Female trees should still produce fruits, …
If your tree is not setting flowers it's possible you have some deficiency in the soil, boron?



The soil is pretty terrible as of yet what plants could I use as green manure to get boron up. We have lots of dandelions which I know is usually an indication of low surface calcium.

I’m thinking I’ll pot the mulberry in a 30 gallon pot with nice mix of worm castings and cococoir and baby it for a while and see if that changes things.

Thanks for you input greatly appreciated.
 
Cristobal Cristo
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Dalton,

Is your tree a seedling, or it's grafted?
 
Dalton Dycer
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Cristobal Cristo wrote:Dalton,

Is your tree a seedling, or it's grafted?




Gosh I’d guess it was a cutting that they rooted. I bought as a 4” pot… now it’s about a 4’ wide 4’ tall bush that’s got lots of leaves. It was a little 1 leaf stick when I bought it which is what makes me think clone / cutting rather than seedling.
 
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Dalton Dycer wrote: The soil is pretty terrible as of yet what plants could I use as green manure to get boron up.



One of my personal favorites which is a jack of all trades, I would recommend getting some comfrey!

It will mine a lot of nutrients from the lower soil and bring them to the surface. You don't have to place it where you want to plant, you can place it somewhere where you won't disturb the roots and chop/drop it in your desired location.
 
Cristobal Cristo
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Dalton Dycer wrote:I’d guess it was a cutting that they rooted. I bought as a 4” pot



Was it from some reputable nursery or someone just rooted a branch from some tree without any warranty?
 
Dalton Dycer
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Was it from some reputable nursery or someone just rooted a branch from some tree without any warranty?

https://www.logees.com/pakistan-mulberry-bush-6inch.html

In I think 2019 I bought it for way less than $$60 lol 😂 boy have prices gone up. I think I paid $60
And got 6 of them it was a deal they were running. I’m not going to call them on it I’ve had it for long enough my STUN methods might be a little to harsh maybe a little more attention is needed lol less neglect.
 
Cristobal Cristo
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The one from the link is listed as Morus alba x rubra and mine from Burnt Ridge nursery is Morus macroura and still costs #30 for a 1/2" caliper tree that grows pretty well on my site. I wonder if these are the same species (just mislabeled).
Regarding your clay soil - most popular fruit trees prefer sandy loams and only few species may be happy in clay.
Maybe you could try to transplant it to a better spot in winter?
 
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Dalton Dycer wrote:
Gosh I’d guess it was a cutting that they rooted. I bought as a 4” pot… now it’s about a 4’ wide 4’ tall bush that’s got lots of leaves. It was a little 1 leaf stick when I bought it which is what makes me think clone / cutting rather than seedling.



Your mulberry isn't growing very fast if you got it in 2019. Does it get winter killed at all? My Pakistan mulberry bushes get killed above ground but put back 10 ft of growth every year. I haven't get any flower/fruit but use the abundance of leaves.

My dwarf everbearing mulberry doesn't produce either. Some year it developed catkins in the spring only to be killed by last frost.

Now I just let a couple female wild red mulberries mature. They are cold hardy, carefree and very prolific. The only problem is that the seedlings are sprouting everywhere and hard to get rid off.
 
Dalton Dycer
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May Lotito wrote:

Dalton Dycer wrote:
Gosh I’d guess it was a cutting that they rooted. I bought as a 4” pot… now it’s about a 4’ wide 4’ tall bush that’s got lots of leaves. It was a little 1 leaf stick when I bought it which is what makes me think clone / cutting rather than seedling.



Your mulberry isn't growing very fast if you got it in 2019. Does it get winter killed at all? My Pakistan mulberry bushes get killed above ground but put back 10 ft of growth every year. I haven't get any flower/fruit but use the abundance of leaves.

My dwarf everbearing mulberry doesn't produce either. Some year it developed catkins in the spring only to be killed by last frost.

Now I just let a couple female wild red mulberries mature. They are cold hardy, carefree and very prolific. The only problem is that the seedlings are sprouting everywhere and hard to get rid off.





Yes it dies every year and comes
Back not a tree
 
Cristobal Cristo
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Dalton Dycer wrote:Yes it dies every year and comes
Back not a tree



So it explains a bit more. What is the lowest temperature you recorded on your property?
I don't know if mulberries can grow fruits on the new growth that sprouted from the ground from the stressed tree (like Chicago Hardy fig).
 
Dalton Dycer
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Cristobal Cristo wrote:

Dalton Dycer wrote:Yes it dies every year and comes
Back not a tree



So it explains a bit more. What is the lowest temperature you recorded on your property?
quote]

In sequim last year we hit all time coldest temperatures for a solid week
At 18 degrees F which is nuts for here usually very temperate microclimate.

I am thinking I may need to build a greenhouse around it if what you’re saying is true about not fruiting on the new growth. Thanks for the tips

 
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May Lotito wrote:
My Pakistan mulberry bushes get killed above ground but put back 10 ft of growth every year. I haven't get any flower/fruit but use the abundance of leaves.

Now I just let a couple female wild red mulberries mature. They are cold hardy, carefree and very prolific. The only problem is that the seedlings are sprouting everywhere and hard to get rid off.



My plant and location need to be changed I’m thinking greenhouse for it I guess. Also if you need help getting rid of seedlings I’d pay postage lol I’m in sequim WA and always wanted to grow fruiting mulberries!
 
Dalton Dycer
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Cristobal Cristo wrote:The one from the link is listed as Morus alba x rubra and mine from Burnt Ridge nursery is Morus macroura and still costs #30 for a 1/2" caliper tree that grows pretty well on my site. I wonder if these are the same species (just mislabeled).
Regarding your clay soil - most popular fruit trees prefer sandy loams and only few species may be happy in clay.
Maybe you could try to transplant it to a better spot in winter?




I think that’s a great bet I got some 50 gallon pots I can mix a really good mix and it can stay there until
We get the forever homestead. And I’ll make a cover for it this winter see if less dies.

I’ve been planting all my Date pits and some even come up but none of those have survived our winters here either.
I want a high tunnel for these less than perfect for my climate plants.
 
Dalton Dycer
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See Hes wrote:We started for our only Mulberry tree (female) about 50 cuttings and 40 survived.
It's a Turkish breed and has huge fruits (seedless because there is no male around)

If you got cuttings make sure you plant in their dormancy time and cover the pot with a clear plastic hood to keep the inside humidity high.
I usually leave 1 leaf on the top and strip all other nodes..




Are you planning to cultivate to sell them? Curious because if you got a male and made some seedlings I think there’s a market for them. Just saying if you don’t already have a plate full. :)
If you do I’m
Interested I want to try different varieties see what’s best for my climate.
 
May Lotito
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Dalton Dycer wrote:

My plant and location need to be changed I’m thinking greenhouse for it I guess. Also if you need help getting rid of seedlings I’d pay postage lol I’m in sequim WA and always wanted to grow fruiting mulberries!



If you are able to find good fruiting mulberry trees in your neighborhood that would be the best. Mulberry roots easily from cuttings. The red mulberry is very weedy and hard to get rid of, so be cautious if you introduce it to your property. Since you have a green house, how about saving the precious space for other fruit trees like figs? If you still want the red mulberry by next spring, i can send some bare root saplings then.
 
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Most likely this is why.




 
Dalton Dycer
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My Pakistan mulberry I’m talking about.
779CE577-D600-4628-A8B5-0F212FD993FC.jpeg
[Thumbnail for 779CE577-D600-4628-A8B5-0F212FD993FC.jpeg]
 
Cristobal Cristo
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Dalton,

It looks exactly like the suckers that grew from the rootstock of my Pakistani mulberry. I removed them all, five days ago. The leaves of the Pakistani are much larger: 4x6".

Another possibility:
Leaves of my Persian mulberry (Morus  nigra) and entire tree form look similar to the tree from your picture. Maybe you actually have Persian that is less cold hardy and it dies to the ground?
 
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The dry grass around that tree suggests that it suffers from drought.
 
Dalton Dycer
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Joseph Lofthouse wrote:The dry grass around that tree suggests that it suffers from drought.



Yes quite legendary drought. Tonight is finally a sprinkle. Almost rain.
I don’t have a good way to water it so it goes long periods without water I usually haul a 5gallon up to water it. It’s got a foot of mulch and a ditch draining right above it. So I figured any rain would soak up the wood chip mulch like a sponge. How it looks right now is how it always looks. Kinda sad.
 
May Lotito
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Like others have said, your Pakistan mulberry doesn't look like mine. Is it possible the nursery mislabeled and sent you the wrong tree?

Here is my tree. I have picked over100 leaves so it looks kind of sparse.
20230823_070632.jpg
Mulberry bush with few branching and large leaves
Mulberry bush with few branching and large leaves
 
Dalton Dycer
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May Lotito wrote:Like others have said, your Pakistan mulberry doesn't look like mine. ……
Here is my tree. I have picked over100 leaves so it looks kind of sparse.



Wow mine has had no leaves picked off and looks way more sparse. But the main difference I see is, yours doesn’t appear to be planted on a drought stricken hill. When I can get irrigation to it I am hopeful it will look more like yours. 🤣😂 thank you for sharing that’s hilarious. I’ve never seen another mulberry so thank you 🙏

 
Dalton Dycer
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May Lotito wrote:Like others have said, your Pakistan mulberry doesn't look like mine.
Here is my tree.



I really want the Pakistan mulberry and I am beginning to think everyone is right about the mislabeled plant. If you have a rooted plant from a seedling that you’re about to dig up I’ll totally Venmo you postage for sending me that variety of genetics.
 
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webpagehttps://permies.com/t/80/111235/Growing-Mulberries-Naturally#1289750
This one is closest to the online picture of Pakistan mulberry. Maybe you can ask Steve about it.
 
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+1 for the red mulberries. They are very tough plants. The first year or two from seed they die back completely to the ground, but after that they have enough roots under them that they can grow fast enough to harden off some woody material before winter comes. My tallest ones are now approaching 3 feet tall and don't die back to the ground any more.

Also, the variety Illinois Everbearing have seemed to do pretty well for me. Minimal dieback every winter.

Someone mentioned leaf shapes looking different. I have heard that mulberries can go through several changes of leaf shape as the plants mature, generally staring off as mostly un-lobed leaves, become more lobed and having different numbers of lobes as time goes on.

 
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Dalton,,

I'm sorry for confusion. I was thinking that I planted my Persian mulberry where actually my Pakistani is and yesterday I confirmed to be wrong (nigra has large 4x6" leaves) . So your Pakistani looks exactly the same like mine.
Both of my trees are grafted from Burnt Ridge and because they grow well I'm going to plant more.
Also I have noticed that it's possible that various cultivars or even species may be labelled as "Pakistani", so the confusion continues. Years to bear for mulberries is usually listed as 1-3 so possibly next year I will b able to tell if I got fruits.
 
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I'll chime in because I really enjoy growing this particular tree.  I've only grown it in very hot (summer) environments (zone 8).  Usually 8b.  Triple digits are the norm in the summer where I have grown them and they have thrived and fruited.  I mention this because there are different types of zone 8 climates with regard the the upper limits of the temperature spectrum.  The zone is designated due to the lower limit of the spectrum.  I can't say for sure why your tree hasn't fruited because of the numerous potential causes.  The video video  earlier in this thread was interesting and cause for concern.  I just can't help but wonder if the summer heat is enough.  Again my response is simply a thought and possibility.  Fertilization also comes to mind, particularly Phosphorous (roots and fruits as they say).  I hope this helps.
 
Dalton Dycer
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al aric wrote:I'll chime in because I really enjoy growing this particular tree.  I've only grown it in very hot (summer) environments (zone 8).  Usually 8b.  Triple digits are the norm in the summer where I have grown them and they have thrived and fruited.  I mention this because there are different types of zone 8 climates with regard the the upper limits of the temperature spectrum.  The zone is designated due to the lower limit of the spectrum.  I can't say for sure why your tree hasn't fruited because of the numerous potential causes.  The video video  earlier in this thread was interesting and cause for concern.  I just can't help but wonder if the summer heat is enough.  Again my response is simply a thought and possibility.  Fertilization also comes to mind, particularly Phosphorous (roots and fruits as they say).  I hope this helps.




Al
Thank you for chiming in! In sequim we maybe get 20 days in the 100s a year usually not totally consecutive either. Plus it’s by the water so more humidity and wind. I’m on year at least 5 with this plant. I’ll give it phosphorus and see if your advice is “fruitful” 😂🤣 punny thanks
 
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