New Build First Generation Batchbox 6" Double Brick Bell

thomas rubino wrote:Hey Julian, Thank you.
Riser is 36"

Funny how the mind can play tricks, maybe it's the superwool that got me.

Day six;
Today I removed the block-out and installed the clean-out door.
I installed an "N"  type temp probe in the riser.
I had installed a "K" type in Shorty last year, and it did not last the season before failing.
The N type is designed to function in a zero oxygen environment, the K type was not.
Gerry made steady progress today stacking bricks, by quitting time we were one layer short from the top of the riser!
Tomorrow we will switch to using firebricks for the inner skin.

Day seven;
Today we started using firebricks on the inner bell.
Gerry now has 22 layers of the outer skin almost completed.
Tomorrow, we will fit a 4" bypass pipe through both skins, it will be wrapped in superwool to seal where it passes through the inner and outer skins.
A  four inch 90 will attach to the chimney pipe. It will utilize the same style of bypass that we installed on Shorty core.
Soon we will be welding up T-bars to support the firebrick roof, and the clay bricks above that.

Very soon now a new Dragon will be seen in Sanders county

Are the firebricks too wide to lay the flat way or is there another reason Gerry's placing them on the narrow side?

Hi Mike;
Firebricks are larger than the clay bricks)  9" x 4.5" x 2.5" vs. 8" x 4" x 2 1/4",   laying them flat would supply more mass, the overhang inside is not a problem.
After looking over my firebrick supply, we decided that there might not be enough on hand.
Rather than adding a trip to Missoula for more firebricks, I chose to have Gerry stand them on edge.
With #6000+ of bricks, the Studio Dragon is a big girl already.
She will surpass Shop Dragon and Shorty Core in heat retention.

Day eight
Today we got the bypass pipe installed through both skins.
We have the firebrick inner skin at final height.
The outer skin is over 25 layers, quickly approaching 6' tall.
I got the Tee-bar angle iron, roof supports cut, welded, and temporarily sitting in place.
My brick stash is gone, and we are down to the last 50 bricks or so.
I expect I'll be making a run into Sandpoint to buy another 40-50 clay bricks to finish the second roof.
So far, I have used #300 of the #600 of sand that I bought a few days ago,  and we are into my last bag of Lincoln 60 fireclay.
If I'm running out of materials it must mean the job is nearly complete!
I expect a first flight in the next few days.

There is a place in Spokane too. Thats where Mud and I got my fire bricks. Might be closer to you than Missoula.

thomas rubino wrote:Hi Mike;
Firebricks are larger than the clay bricks)  9" x 4.5" x 2.5" vs. 8" x 4" x 2 1/4",   laying them flat would supply more mass, the overhang inside is not a problem.
After looking over my firebrick supply, we decided that there might not be enough on hand.
Rather than adding a trip to Missoula for more firebricks, I chose to have Gerry stand them on edge.
With #6000+ of bricks, the Studio Dragon is a big girl already.
She will surpass Shop Dragon and Shorty Core in heat retention.

Looking beautiful!!! Thanks for all the great info shared. <3 I bet Liz is gonna love it!

thomas rubino wrote:Day seven;
Today we started using firebricks on the inner bell.
Gerry now has 22 layers of the outer skin almost completed.
Tomorrow, we will fit a 4" bypass pipe through both skins, it will be wrapped in superwool to seal where it passes through the inner and outer skins.
A  four inch 90 will attach to the chimney pipe. It will utilize the same style of bypass that we installed on Shorty core.
Soon we will be welding up T-bars to support the firebrick roof, and the clay bricks above that.

Very soon now a new Dragon will be seen in Sanders county

Thanks Opal
In Spokane you went to White Block or Mutual materials.
Missoula is slightly closer and a much more scenic drive.

Thomas, sorry to say, I'd think it would be best to mention some possibly negative constructions.
As it looks like, the bypass valve is placed higher than the riser's top. Which means thermal stress will be higher on the metal, this won't melt or anything, but the steel plate could warp.

And, the support for the bell ceiling is used upside down, in my opinion. The double flange is hanging down now, so this will be in the highest heat what the riser can deliver. But, perhaps it won't sag because of the doubled flange. There's also another effect though, the gas stream along the ceiling could be hampered, due to the highly irregular surface. This isn't mentioned before, although I've seen it in a number of occasions where the ceiling wasn't reasonably smooth, both the front and rear walls lagged behind in warming up. The heater in the cabin has the same construction, I know that, but there's an entirely different core in there, not blasting up vertically.

Just to let you know, that's all.

Hi Peter;
Thank you for the suggestions.
Gerry and I have been waiting for any comments from you on how we were doing.

The bypass gate itself will be cast iron protected with superwool.

The roof supports are currently just sitting there and can easily be flipped.
In the past I have only seen them with the smooth side up.
We will flip them this morning after wrapping.

thomas rubino wrote:The roof supports are currently just sitting there and can easily be flipped.
In the past I have only seen them with the smooth side up.
We will flip them this morning after wrapping.

Best to leave out the wrapping altogether, only thin superwool or ceramic paper between any steel and brick surfaces. This will simplify the build quite a bit, I've found out. The upright flange of the T will be out of the highest heat and as such will be protected. Wrapping in superwool means moisture could be trapped, causing rust. All bare steel will be coated with a nice thin layer of tar, especially in the running-in period, corrosion won't be an issue this way.