I am simply not very familiar with a lot of the tractor tools and am trying to get my head around what I would need to approach a fresh field.
Bryant RedHawk wrote:hau Stephen, There is a special seed drill, called a No-Till Seed Drill that has been designed to go through the mulch layer for proper seed depth. Keep in mind that you can till but that should be adding more organic material, not just prepping the seed bed.
When you do till in organic material you want to follow that with an application of microorganisms including the fungi. For a farmer it becomes important to know how much fungi to put into the microorganism ratio, I usually keep it simple and shoot for a 50/50 bacteria to fungi, the other organisms will almost automatically end up at around 10% of the total compost tea you make to spray on the soil. The good thing is that once you just use a crimp roller and NTSD (no-till seed drill) you are already keeping your soil biology in place and the cover mulch keeps the organisms multiplying.
I'm on here as much as possible so if you have questions, please don't hesitate to ask them.
Bryant RedHawk wrote:
This thing will drill a hole as deep as you can push the main pipe down into the soil very quickly. Once you have the hole drilled turn on the 1/4 inch valve to suck your compost tea down into the hole and out into the surrounding soil, leave this valve on as you withdraw the pipe, shutting it off just before you remove the water injector from the hole. Move 5 feet and repeat, do this until you have the area you are treating completely covered.
The main reason we want to do this is so that we don't have to concern ourselves with rotating what we plant in any particular spot.
Susan Hutson wrote:you are saying, and you imply it in other areas that crop rotation for the home garden is a thing of the past. But, because there is always a but, crop rotation is advocated because of the Great Irish Potato Famine ad failure of the people not using crop rotation.
Ryan Hobbs wrote:I made a very long post about my experience with daikon. It did not load correctly so I am going to rewrite a summary. This is a response to the part about brassicas having greater affinity for bacteria.
Due to experiences growing daikon for several years, I believe they prefer fungal dominated soils. My reason is because the minowase cultivar which I have mostly grown has done the best when fungal dominated compost (all of my compost is fungal dominated) and mychorizae fungi were added. The daikon reached rediculous sizes, fully double their typical size. Mustard, cabbages, and kale did not do as well. My hypothesis is that daikon growing in Gifu prefecture (the south of which was called Mino Province in the Warring States period) was naturally selected to grow in that area for probably the last thousand years. Gifu Prefecture is heavily forested, and very wet, mountainous terrain. Its soils are naturally dominated by woody debris which favor fungal dominence. I think, therefore, that Minowase daikon are suited to fungal dominated soils.
Bryant RedHawk wrote:
There are two commercial types of seed drill, the standard one has shorter drill tubes and is meant for "fluffy seed beds", the No-Till- seed drill has fairly thick drill tubes and is heavier overall, the tube ends are sharper also so they will cut through any flat material.
Ben Waimata wrote:Thanks. A few years back I tried the scalp-cut approach (3 times about 4-5 days apart) and sowed wheat, but didn't work well enough to harvest grain. It was good enough fora fodder crop though. I tried again with millet last summer, the millet did grow but was seriously suppressed by competition. There must be a way to suit this farm, I will continue to experiment.
What does "you may have to wait for just prior to green out" mean sorry?
Mike Barkley wrote:Dr. Redhawk, once of these soil threads mentioned that you use meat & bones for compost but you do not use not roadkill. Why not? Is there a biological reason or is it something else? Like, who really wants to mess with roadkill?