Bryant RedHawk wrote:I get plastic, food grade, 55 gal. barrels from a guy that works at a plant where they get acetic acid in them, once you rinse these out and do some modifications they work better than the steel ones I use.
The steel ones can have anything in them since you are going to burn them out before you set them up for composting. I drill 1/4 inch holes spaced 1 foot apart in all directions, this allows excess moisture to drain out.
I also use a flat black paint for the exterior once I have burned the barrel to get any contaminates gone, I also pressure wash the inside after the burn just for safety. You can paint the interior if you so desire, just be sure it is a "food safe" type paint so you don't add contaminates.
I try to make sure the materials for composting are fully wetted before I put them in. Once full, I put the lid on and shut the ring so the lid doesn't fall off as I roll it. I let a barrel sit for two days then start turning it once per day, the more sun you can get on the barrel, the better.
Bryant RedHawk wrote:If you are going to use plastic bags, be sure to leave the top open, those things make it really easy for a compost to go anaerobic which is a very bad thing.
It can be done though and the results can be pretty good. Just remember, air is our friend and lack of air is the enemy.
Bryant RedHawk wrote:Teas are meant to be sprayed as a folar feeding. This is great if you are treating diseases or infestations, but not the best overall use of your compost.
Extracts are meant to be poured on the soil. This will condition soil quickly, get the organisms where we want them and it will help them populate the roots of the plants faster.
To be continued.
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