I have heard that mice and other rodents will be attracted to the nice warm underbelly of a strawbale-perimeter under an RV. And then perhaps the snakes would love to be under there to eat the rodents. I like snakes but detest mice in the house! And it stinks when a snake poops under your house! And then there is the ongoing attempt to reduce the odds of burning up in a wildfire.
For additional insulation, I'd stack a wall of straw bales around the perimeter 3 courses high. Heck - you could even put a layer of bales up on the roof for additional insulation.
OTOH,it seems like getting rotting biomass into the soil could address a lot of issues.
Is there any source for biomass, like woodchips that aren't cedar,manure or brewers waste, something that will hold water while vegetation establishes?
If there is, the reasons for building a berm increase, as the hole to be filled with biomass could come from the construction of the berm itself.
I will have lots of time once I get the RV settled and before the tenants cattle arrive. Then we'll see how much physical labor I am in the mood for.
If you build a berm, covering the berm with plants just makes sense.
Siberian peashrubs can survive in Oklahoma's zones and high winds, plus it is know as a good hedge, windbreak, erosion controller, good source, nitrogen fixer etc, etc.
A pile of carbonous material, buried beneath soil, protected by burlap, planted in peashrubs and watered by greywater might solve your dust problem, and create a lot of value.
It might also be more work than you want.
The burlap as a geofabric makes reminds me of the idea of using burlap sacks and soil stabling plants to build a earth bag structure.
A wall of such sacks, planted with willow, alfalfa, peashrubs, etc, could be your windbreak.
Irrigation seems like it would be needed.
This would take lots of hand labor.
How do the IBC totes hold up to the sun?
A wall of IBC totes, stacked two high.
Set up as sub irrigated planters, azolle ponds or Kratky hydroponic tanks.
Huge thermal mass, windbreak, easy to grow in.
Potentially expensive, I get mine for 20 bucks, but they are NOT foodsafe.
This might work well if I can hook it up to the RV sewage line. I will search permies for links on setting this up. Thanks William.
Back to the black water.
How about a vermiculture filter?
An IBC tote filed with woodchips and worms, has proven to be an excellent substitute for a septic tank.
It should be insulated, and is often buried, with an overflow pipe to release the filtered water.
This might actually be preferable to the dry toilet, water infused with wormy goodness could really help your fertility.
These are not set into the ground, they sit on the ground? Do you also cut the IBC metal cage in half and keep it on the tote to support the tote? I wonder if the contents would get too hot in OK summers.
They are cut around the circumference to about 2 feet high, filled with a layer of up ended buckets, followed by potting mix and topped with pavers.
They function as huge planters that I can walk on, effectively adding about 26 square feet to my back porch.
denise ra wrote:These are not set into the ground, they sit on the ground? Do you also cut the IBC metal cage in half and keep it on the tote to support the tote? I wonder if the contents would get too hot in OK summers.
denise ra wrote:I went to the Vermicomposting Toilets website and I would like for this to work. They recommend insulating the worm bin and keeping the temperature range at 20-25 degrees Celcius. That is 68-77 degrees Fahrenheit. I would have to bury the IBC with the worms and air condition it in Oklahoma summers! I swear it's 100 all summer. Unless there were some way to use the well water from the windmill to cool the worm IBC?
William, why do you suggest the gravel less septic system over the vermicomposting greenfilter bed?
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