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Mike Jay wrote:Hi Kristina, sounds like a fun journey! So you have $100K for land and another $100K for a house?
I debated buying land and building a house but the struggle to rent or live in a camper while building turned me off. So we ended up getting an existing house with the improvements and land we could live with. Then we remodeled the house while living in it.
Building codes in your area may greatly affect what you can do yourself and how onerous the inspections and permits will be.
Some home improvement retailers (Menards comes to mind) will sell you a whole house, all you have to do is put it together. Other options are manufactured homes (not mobile homes) where you get a foundation put in and they assemble the house. Options for natural building materials would be limited.
Building a house is not hard but it takes lots of learning and experience. One option could be to build a very tiny house as practice in a summer. Then live in that for a while until you build your "forever" home. Any mistakes you make would be cheaper and you'd learn a lot. Plus you could use the same well, septic and power services for both houses.
Some places need to be wild
SKIP books, get 'em while they're hot!!! Skills to Inherit Property
Come join me at the 2024 SKIP event at Wheaton Labs
Some places need to be wild
Eric Hanson wrote:Hi Kristina,
From what I understand, you have 100k to spend on the house itself. I built my house about 15 years ago and I am thoroughly happy I did. I can try to pass on some thoughts/help for you that you can heed or ignore as you wish.
My home is not a cookie cutter house as I had specific criteria, such as southern exposure and good natural lighting. My wife and I bought a simple piece of architecture software program and drew up a basic floor plan. Unfortunately we could not figure out how to incorporate our second floor.
Our solution was to take our proto-plan to an architect. He looked at our plan, listened to our concerns and then returned with his own “corrected” version of our floor plan and it was indeed much better. It was about 85% the same as what we gave him, but much improved. This cost us $1200 and this was by far the best money we spent. The takeaway is to as much as possible, plan in advance! The more you can plan, the better you can control costs.
Secondly, check with multiple contractors unless you are really sold on one in particular. Further, check on work in progress. I spotted several problems during construction and got them fixed easily (I actually checked on the progress almost daily).
Thirdly, define how much you want the contractor to do. For instance, do you want the contractor to put in a yard or will you do this yourself? Do you own a tractor or plan on owning one soon? At times (many actually) I wished that I owned my tractor during construction.
Fourthly, keep some money in the bank. There will be cost overruns. For instance, I got a quote for my house, but connecting my house to the water line was $3500! This was not included in the construction cost and I did reduce it by trenching and assembling my own water line. I had a similar issue with electricity.
Finally, despite all your detailed planning and hard work, expect the unexpected and sadly this will likely cost money.
These are just a few thoughts and if you have any more specific questions, please don’t hesitate to ask.
Good luck!
Eric
Kathleen Sanderson wrote:What about an Amish-built structure on pier blocks for temporary housing? Those aren't terribly expensive and can be finished out with modern utilities to be just like a tiny house. When your 'real' house is finished, use the cabin for a guest house or a studio or something.
Old houses, as you already know, are a crapshoot. I looked at a bunch here in Kentucky a couple of years ago when I was house-hunting. All had something wrong with them, usually something major. The best place I looked at (and the most expensive) was on the side of a hill that was so steep that from the edge of the narrow yard you could literally drop something and it would hit the edge of the road fifty feet below. Difficult parking, no place for a garden. It was on a couple of acres (I was looking mostly at places with a minimum of two acres) but most of the land was heavily wooded and extremely steep. Nice big two story house, but the land had issues. Another place was a nice one-story on two acres -- needed some updating, but looked pretty livable as it was. But there was a sinkhole forming under one corner of the house. I don't know if those can be filled in and stabilized or not, so I passed on that! Another place had six acres with mature fruit and nut trees and a couple of barns, but one section of the house had a big hole in the floor where it had rotted out, and the driveway was both in need of fixing (probably blasting -- exposed bedrock humps) and a title search since it was probably on someone else's land. Other places I looked at had serious foundation issues, or needed to be completely removed and a new house built. I should mention that my budget -- the houses I was looking at -- were in the range of $40,000 to $80,000, and I looked at places with two up to thirty acres of land.
The place we ended up with is in south-central Kentucky, so we are out of the really steep 'hills and hollers' to the east (beautiful country unless you are claustrophobic, but rocky and steep, harder to find suitable land for gardening). We've got 2.68 acres -- I'm 62, have a bad back, and am full-time caregiver for my severely mentally handicapped youngest daughter. I'd love to have more land, but realistically wouldn't be able to do much of anything with it. There's a small pond on the property; we are surrounded on three sides by a cow pasture which has three other ponds in it (and isn't mine, but we get the views). We have two usable barns, a double dog kennel, a chicken coop, and a couple of other small sheds. The house....well, I suppose for what we paid for this property, I could have found a small house in town that didn't need a whole lot done to it. But we would have been in town. First thing we had to do was get all the plumbing under the house fixed -- it had frozen and was broken all over the place. Also the bathtub had a big hole rusted in it around the drain, so that got replaced. And at the same time the well pump needed replaced, and the pressure tank (which was the smallest one I'd ever seen). So there went $2200 bucks right out the window. The house had new subflooring, but no flooring on the ground level (the finished attic and stairs had new berber style carpet). So I bought some vinyl flooring on sale before we left Oregon and brought that with us (another $2000 even on sale). It's turned out to be more difficult to install than I'd been told it would be and it still isn't finished, so we still have subfloor in part of the house (and boxes of flooring in one corner of the dining room). The electrical ALL needs to be replaced -- guestimate on that is around $5000. I've got part of that saved up, hope to get it done before winter. No heat in the house -- I bought a propane wall-mount heater, and just need to get that installed and get a propane tank out here and filled. We went through last winter on electric space heaters, but I don't want to do that again. The kitchen was a bare room, no cabinets or anything. I've put in two Hoosier cabinets, a couple of dressers, and a couple of portable kitchen islands, along with one big sink cabinet, and the kitchen is good until I can afford to get it done right (and if that never happens, it works fine the way it is). The last major thing that needs to be done is replace some of the windows. The roof is nearly-new metal (though why anyone would put a black roof on a house in this climate is beyond me). The foundation has a hole in it for access to the plumbing, but is solid otherwise. So my $46,000 house is going to cost closer to $60-65,000 by the time all the work is done. Most of the others we looked at would have either not met our needs as well as this location, or would have cost a lot more to fix. The place needs some new paint, too, and a few other minor odds and ends. But I guess all of that was to say that, Yes, an old house can be a pain to fix. But I think it's worth considering, even if you'll need to hire the work done, one thing at a time.
SKIP books, get 'em while they're hot!!! Skills to Inherit Property
Come join me at the 2024 SKIP event at Wheaton Labs
Mike Jay wrote:Yet another consideration is the things you get with a used house that don't count towards the list price. Fences, barns, outbuildings, septic systems, wells, gardens, orchards, ponds and the like seem to not count towards the asking price of houses these days. So you'll save a lot of money and time if that infrastructure is already on a property.
If I ever remodel a house again, I'll start by stripping out the drywall and insulation and starting from there. I dinked around with this current house, trying to work with the existing finishes and it took much longer.
"Study books and observe nature; if they do not agree, throw away the books." ~ William A. Albrecht
A build too cool to miss:Mike's GreenhouseA great example:Joseph's Garden
All the soil info you'll ever need:
Redhawk's excellent soil-building series
Kathleen Sanderson wrote:I have done some building, and honestly, if my back wasn't so bad now, I would have probably chosen to get bare land and build a new house. Because you are right, you avoid some of the problems that come with an old house! But with all the factors considered -- limited budget and NOT wanting to go with a mortgage (our place is paid for and work is being done as I can afford to); bad back limiting the amount of the work I'd be able to do myself; and needing a place to live right away since we were moving across the country...I could have lived in a tent if it was just me AND if I was physically able to do the building myself, but with my daughter it would have been rough. Here, at least, we've had better shelter than a tent, and the basic utilities (once we got the water pipes fixed). You just have to make a pros and cons list with all of your factors on it, and then decide.
But, you aren't necessarily going to avoid problems by building a new house, either. Anyone who has built a house, or had one built, will tell you that it always takes longer than expected, costs more than expected, and there are almost always things that will need to be fixed after you think it's all done. So it isn't quite as black and white as it may initially appear.
There is also the factor of recycling an older home, and the better materials and craftsmanship that may have gone into an older home (not always, but often).
My hobby for most of my life has been designing houses; given the budget and reliable helpers, I would gladly build a new house! But sometimes you have to go the other direction.
Mike Jay wrote:Yet another consideration is the things you get with a used house that don't count towards the list price. Fences, barns, outbuildings, septic systems, wells, gardens, orchards, ponds and the like seem to not count towards the asking price of houses these days. So you'll save a lot of money and time if that infrastructure is already on a property.
If I ever remodel a house again, I'll start by stripping out the drywall and insulation and starting from there. I dinked around with this current house, trying to work with the existing finishes and it took much longer.
James Freyr wrote:Hey Kristina! I’m not sure exactly what to recommend because there are so many types and visual styles of homes out there, but I think double-wide and modular homes are great for ease and speed of assembly with minimal time from start to moving in. There are all kinds of kit homes that vary in what sort of shell is assembled and then left to finish inside. I built a home last year (and part of this year) and have a thread about it here https://permies.com/t/89510/James-log-cabin-build if you’re interested in seeing what I did. It was a log cabin kit, and I did as much as I could to save money. My wife and I managed to stay real close to budget, but it took twice as long as we thought. Labor in hiring roofers, plumbers, electricians, window & door installers, floor and tile guys, cabinet installers, painters, trim carpenters etc. adds up in a hurry. These are trades and crafts, and each person will be earning somewhere between $25/hr and $100/hr, depending on age/experience and the market they work in. Each one of those that a homeowner feels they can do themselves is essentially paying themselves in savings. There may be saving in money, but if a homeowner lacks a crew of friends to help with a part, the expense will be in the longer time it takes to complete the task.
You may discover that some rural counties, if you are looking for rural land, may not have certain, or any, building codes. I discovered this starting my home build, going to city hall at the county, will all my paperwork and my contractor beside me and he had his proof of active license, and I'm feeling good about getting my permit. We walked up to the clerk, I introduced myself and informed him I need a building permit, he asked where I was building and after I answered he said "you don't need one". My contractor and I looked at each other with quite the facial expressions of astonishment. He told us a long winded story of how building permits came up for vote in an election some years back and the voters elected to do away with them. I did have to have an electrical permit and inspection (that's federal, and unavoidable if you want grid power, and may be necessary for solar but I'm not qualified to answer that) and I had to get a permit for a septic installation. No other permits or inspections were needed or done. If you have some specific questions about building, I’m happy to try and answer them.
Trace Oswald wrote:I'll just throw this out there because I am having a house built right now. Every builder in this area will tell you that with material prices what they are right now, plan on spending $125-$150 per square foot to have your house built if you have someone do it for you. This is for a conventional stick-built house.
Some places need to be wild
Eric Hanson wrote:Kristina,
First off, I am pleased I could help you with my earlier post.
But more to the point, when I built my house, there was a lot of talk about building a house for $85-$100/ft. But after I spoke with a number of contractors, I found those numbers to be meaningless. You could build a very simple shelter structure for under $50/ft, but this would have no windows, flooring, etc.
Ultimately you want a house to fit you. Things like granite countertops can raise the $/ft drastically. Maybe this is worth it to you, or maybe not. In my house, every single part of the house could have made better, but ultimately the act of building a house was an act of compromise. Since you don’t have unlimited funds, you will have to make these compromises for yourself.
Incidentally, although every aspect of my house was a compromise. I have no regrets and I love the finished product, imperfections and all.
Best of luck to you,
Eric
Some places need to be wild
Eric Hanson wrote:Kristina,
I like that you want natural light. If I could recommend, I would try to emphasize southern living lighting/windows. The reason is that southern windows will let in lots of natural sunlight in the winter when the weather is cold and the sun is low. In the summer the sun will be high and not let in direct sunlight during the heat of the day.
Eric
Some places need to be wild
Eric Hanson wrote:Kristina,
When we were planning our kitchen, our quote for the house allocated just a bit over $12k for the whole kitchen. We came within pennies of our budget, but my wife wanted granite countertops. Sadly, the price for the granite countertops alone was $12k. Obviously we went with much cheaper countertops.
Eric
Kathleen Sanderson wrote:Somewhere I've seen a website that compared countertop materials for how easy they were to maintain. That's something else to consider, in addition to cost -- if I recall correctly, surprisingly, one of the less expensive countertop materials was also the easiest to maintain. For anyone like me (housework isn't my favorite thing to do) that could be an important consideration. And if you get rich later and can afford to get one of the more expensive materials, go for it. I do, however, recommend getting the best cabinets you can afford. Well-built cabinets (plywood, not particle-board) can last a life-time, only needing fresh paint once in a while to keep them looking nice. But they are a pain to replace.
Kristina Black wrote:
Kathleen Sanderson wrote:Somewhere I've seen a website that compared countertop materials for how easy they were to maintain. That's something else to consider, in addition to cost -- if I recall correctly, surprisingly, one of the less expensive countertop materials was also the easiest to maintain. For anyone like me (housework isn't my favorite thing to do) that could be an important consideration. And if you get rich later and can afford to get one of the more expensive materials, go for it. I do, however, recommend getting the best cabinets you can afford. Well-built cabinets (plywood, not particle-board) can last a life-time, only needing fresh paint once in a while to keep them looking nice. But they are a pain to replace.
That's a great point! Perhaps if cabinets are costly in the beginning, it would make sense to have less of them in the beginning, and add more later instead of replacing them or having lots of them from the get to?
Kathleen Sanderson wrote:
Kristina Black wrote:
Kathleen Sanderson wrote:Somewhere I've seen a website that compared countertop materials for how easy they were to maintain. That's something else to consider, in addition to cost -- if I recall correctly, surprisingly, one of the less expensive countertop materials was also the easiest to maintain. For anyone like me (housework isn't my favorite thing to do) that could be an important consideration. And if you get rich later and can afford to get one of the more expensive materials, go for it. I do, however, recommend getting the best cabinets you can afford. Well-built cabinets (plywood, not particle-board) can last a life-time, only needing fresh paint once in a while to keep them looking nice. But they are a pain to replace.
That's a great point! Perhaps if cabinets are costly in the beginning, it would make sense to have less of them in the beginning, and add more later instead of replacing them or having lots of them from the get to?
I think that makes sense. I mentioned above that this house had a blank slate with no cabinets in the kitchen at all. I got a sink cabinet (on clearance at Lowe's). My oldest daughter picked up a section of countertop (formica type) at a yard sale, with a sink in it already, that just fit the extra-wide sink cabinet. So that all went into place, along with a used (over-sized) frig. I filled in with other Craigslist and FB Marketplace finds -- a couple of antique Hoosier cabinets, a dresser with bookshelves on top, and two portable kitchen islands as well as a dresser I already had. I have more than enough shelf and drawer space for everything (especially since I've been de-cluttering a lot). I do also have a big metal cabinet -- formerly a filing cabinet, it has doors that lift up -- in the enclosed back porch that holds canned goods, and the small freezer is also on the porch. Now I can add cabinets when I can afford them, and once the cabinets are all in place (with temporary plywood countertops, probably), I'll finish it off with a regular countertop. You don't have to do everything the 'standard' way. Improvise, make it work!
Kristina Black wrote:
Kathleen Sanderson wrote:
Kristina Black wrote:
Kathleen Sanderson wrote:Somewhere I've seen a website that compared countertop materials for how easy they were to maintain. That's something else to consider, in addition to cost -- if I recall correctly, surprisingly, one of the less expensive countertop materials was also the easiest to maintain. For anyone like me (housework isn't my favorite thing to do) that could be an important consideration. And if you get rich later and can afford to get one of the more expensive materials, go for it. I do, however, recommend getting the best cabinets you can afford. Well-built cabinets (plywood, not particle-board) can last a life-time, only needing fresh paint once in a while to keep them looking nice. But they are a pain to replace.
That's a great point! Perhaps if cabinets are costly in the beginning, it would make sense to have less of them in the beginning, and add more later instead of replacing them or having lots of them from the get to?
I think that makes sense. I mentioned above that this house had a blank slate with no cabinets in the kitchen at all. I got a sink cabinet (on clearance at Lowe's). My oldest daughter picked up a section of countertop (formica type) at a yard sale, with a sink in it already, that just fit the extra-wide sink cabinet. So that all went into place, along with a used (over-sized) frig. I filled in with other Craigslist and FB Marketplace finds -- a couple of antique Hoosier cabinets, a dresser with bookshelves on top, and two portable kitchen islands as well as a dresser I already had. I have more than enough shelf and drawer space for everything (especially since I've been de-cluttering a lot). I do also have a big metal cabinet -- formerly a filing cabinet, it has doors that lift up -- in the enclosed back porch that holds canned goods, and the small freezer is also on the porch. Now I can add cabinets when I can afford them, and once the cabinets are all in place (with temporary plywood countertops, probably), I'll finish it off with a regular countertop. You don't have to do everything the 'standard' way. Improvise, make it work!
That was very smart of you to do, and I can only imagine how much money you have saved! It's easy to make it all look good with the proper placement of the shelves, paint, and decorations. I want to minimize costs as much as possible, too, for things that won't be necessary in the beginning.
Teri Reed wrote:Hi Kristina,
Just finished my barn home in central VA on 11 acres, 2 of which is a stocked spring fed pond, 7 acres hay pasture and the rest trees. My landlord raised my rent during the build so my builder built me a tiny house (250 sq ft) to live in during the build. It is hooked up to the house power and septic. Complete blast to live there during the build! And had the bonus to 'get to know' the property. Moved in April and now I rent the tiny house on Airbnb. The house is small (around 1300sq ft) but has an attached, insulated greenhouse which offers heat and natural filtration - in addition to fresh fruits/veggies year round! Also adds another almost 200 sq feet to the house. Because I designed the house, I wanted the attached greenhouse and an outdoor shower added in the build.
Huge savings on kitchen and bath, all cabinets/shelves are made of left over lumber from the build - stained or cut a different pattern.
I believe you can do it, don't ever give up on your dream. Do your research. I interviewed all subcontractors and was responsible to hire them as well as my contractor. I brought the builder in from out of state because I did not want a cookie cutter home.
Beware, nothing can prepare you for the psychological/financial/emotional roll coaster ride due to a variety of reasons (weather, equipment failure etc) but it is definitely worth it.
Have fun and best of builds to you!
Teri Reed wrote:You have to do your homework. The county I built in, the regs stated that a structure 255sq ft or over must be anchored and needed all sorts of additional permits. As a result, we only did 250 sq ft on the tiny house. The shell for the tiny house was approx. 11k - not including fixtures/hot water heater/sink/frig/hookups etc. Still under 17k for everything. I think the silver lining was the rural community and super friendly building inspector who could see the structures were solidly built and not thrown together. Got all lumber for the finishing touches from a local mill, stayed away from big box stores as much as possible. For the house, craigslist was my friend - got a beautiful 1930s concrete laundry sink for the kitchen, etsy has some great finds too.
Many builders turned me down because they only build Mcmansions. To keep my cost down, I purchased all fixtures - the mark-up from the contractors is eye-popping and would have put me over budget. I found awesome artistic, unique sinks, faucets, lights on etsy (my chandeliers in the kitchen are handmade stained glass from Turkey) so much cheaper than Home depot/Lowes.
Attached greenhouse is not that more expensive - when the foundation is poured, have them pour that as well with a slope wherever you want the floor drain. I bought the windows/sliding glass door and the roofing material for the greenhouse that was seperate (approx 2k)
Without a very lengthy note, it can be done with research. I went 8k over budget on the house and incorporated alot of expenses from the tiny house into the house construction loan (running septic/electric lines etc)
Some places need to be wild
Eric Hanson wrote:Kristina,
Sorry it has taken me so long to get to you.
Since I last posted you have had a lot of good advice. It may be difficult to shuffle all of this information around, but it is all solid advice.
For my part, I am glad that you have an appreciation for Southern light. I find that this makes the house so much more livable in the winter.
Best of luck and please keep us updated.
Eric
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