To till 1 foot and to mow at 1 foot is that root-to- soot ratio which concentrates organics in that 1 foot? Does the same thing work with lawns which get continually cut at 1 1/2 inches? Or the golf course "greens" which get cut to like 3/8 inch?
Doesn't nearly all organics come from "outside" a soil?
Gilbert Fritz wrote:One interesting way to grow organic matter for a plot is with azolla ferns in a pond. Azolla fixes nitrogen from the air, so you would be importing nitrogen and carbon. The pond will only benefit from removed nutrients, not suffer. And the azolla mat makes a good weed smothering mulch. Azolla is one of the fastest growing plants on earth under ideal conditions.
Gilbert Fritz wrote:I'm glad you liked my website! As always, when soil balancing comes up, I'd recommend Steve Solomon's book, The Intelligent Gardener. I disagree with him on some things, and his tone can sometimes be off putting, but it is the best book I've found yet for small scale growers looking to balance their soil.
Joseph Lofthouse wrote:I love tilling perennial beds. It's a great way of incorporating organic matter into the soil and of minimizing annual weeds and some grasses. I till my raspberry patch under in the fall (only works with fall bearing raspberries). I till asparagus, sunroots, chives, Egyptian onions, mints, etc... The perennials come back just fine after tilling. I rejuvenate the strawberry patch by tilling.
Dave Bross wrote:Here's the scenario here in north Florida. ...
Seems to me one of the biggest factors, that varies radically depending on where you are, is how much sun you get. The crops love and need the sun but it puts a quick end to any exposed organic material.