Denis Huel wrote:By the time the transplants recover from being planted the seedlings have caught up and both ripen tomatoes at the same time.
ronie dee wrote:I direct seed open pollinated tomatoes Brandywine, Mortgage Lifter and cherry tomatoes. I plant them the summer and fall one year and they produce the next year. I am in NW MO so I think there is 150+ frost free days. Cherry tomatoes might be best for your short season.
Joseph Lofthouse wrote:William: The volunteer from my brother's garden was called D5 in my cold/frost trials (Right Down Joseph's Alley). I might have written something like "Possibly descended from Celebrity" on the label of the seeds I sent. I don't think that it's represented in the 2015 landrace seeds.
For me to get tomatoes at 35 days after transplant, the plants have to have flowered and set fruit in the greenhouse. Some of my plants last year were flowering in the greenhouse after the 4th leaf node.
Here's what Solanum habrochaites looked like this fall after the snow melted off it. Also posting a photo of what the rest of the garden looked like... This was about 10 weeks after the other tomatoes started getting damaged/killed by cold weather. This same plant survived a number of snow storms and frosts in the spring.
Wynne Kelch wrote:I'm a total amateur, but I want to suggest to you Matt's Wild Cherry, a solanum lycopersicum. It's 60 DTM and has voluntarily sustained itself here for six years despite neglect. Granted, I'm in VA, but I read it was bred in ME. Not sure how productive you'd consider it--prolific and delicious, but fussy to de-stem.
ronie dee wrote:I don't plant the cherry tomatoes on the same property as the Brandy Wine and the Mortgage Lifters. I don't know for sure if the Brandy and Mortgage do any interbreeding but I don't think they do. I fear that the cherry might interbreed and I wouldn't really know it happened for generations (plant generations).
Sometimes the summer planted tomato seeds germinate the same year that they are planted - these are doomed. Some seeds germinate early in the spring - these have all died in frosts. I want these to survive, just have had not been able to give enough care to allow them to survive. I always get some tomato plants that manage to germinate at the right time of spring, to survive. These plants are always stockier better looking plants than plants that are started inside and transplanted out. I see some local growers start tomatoes in 5 gallon buckets and set these whole buckets in the ground outside, when danger has passed - these always have larger tomato plants and sooner tomatoes than my direct seeded plants.
LeRoy Martinez wrote:Interesting thread on tomatoes
I enjoy reading all these articles but it's too disciplined for me.
My name should have been Hap Hazard because that's the way I garden.
I'm in SW Montana and last fall I was talking to my son who lives about 40 miles
away and he told me they started eating tomatoes the 15 th of June last year.
That got me digging for details from him and it turned out he took a couple of
tomato plants inside his house when cold weather hit. (Fall of 2015)
He said they kinda went dormant but they kept them watered enough to keep
them alive and when the plants "clock" went off they woke up started life all
So then I brought 3 plants that were about 3 foot tall into my shop last fall and
I kept them going and picked tomatoes Christmas day. There's one tomato left &
It's got a few days left to ripen and I'm thinking I'll wait and pick it in February.
That plant has a new yellow blossom on it as well. Tomatoes are small but good.
The last 3 or 4 years my coffee crew members and I have discussed my big south
windows and maybe tomatoes could almost be grown year around in there?
So on October 11th and again on October 26 of 2016 I started 10 tomatoes from seed
and I gave one plant to my son and one to my grandson. Now I have 8 plants left and
they are about 19 inches tall. They seem to be doing well with the combination of
2 - 12" X 12" LED gro lights and window sunshine. Perfectly straight with no gangly
reaching for the sun. They are just starting to get some blossoms started or maybe
it's my wishful imagination seeing things.
Some background: They are planted in dirt and I have added amendments like rock dust,
Bio-Char etc. They are on wheeled carts so they can be rotated to follow the sun,
(when I think of it).
Joseph Lofthouse wrote:
In my garden, I think that birds scavenge heavily for seeds that are laying on top of the ground. So I have the feeling that incorporating seeds into the soil in the fall is more likely to preserve them till spring than leaving the fruits above ground.
I'm a huge proponent of the idea of selecting for growing conditions... If a gardener wants to grow in pots, I feel like they should plant/save seeds from plants that have been grown in pots for generations. If they want to grow on black plastic, I feel like they should plant/save seeds from plants that were grown on black plastic. So in this case, I feel like the best way to select for direct seeded tomatoes, is to plant a wide variety of tomatoes, save seeds from anything that succeeds, or almost succeeds, and replant year after year until the population reliably produces fruit when direct seeded. The first two years that I planted muskmelons, I harvested green fruits. Finally in the third year, I was harvesting lots of ripe fruits.
Pamela Smith wrote:Well besides the obvious that has been said, planting early varieties, shorter grow periods. The average early varieties are around 75 days but as mentioned if one looks around there are seeds that take 45-60 days. One needs to also take into account warmth of the soil. If you want to plant seeds directly into the soil you need to know the soil is warm enough for germination. So frost free is not enough. You will need to warm the soil and keep the soil warm. A black plastic sheet on the place you want to plant the seeds to warm the soil up and then leave it on after you plant the seeds until they start sprouting. Just be sure the soil does not dry out. Good luck.
William Schlegel wrote:S. Cornelius mulleri ?x peruvianum
William Schlegel wrote:Both siblings side by side for scale and slightly different leaf shapes
Andrew Barney wrote:
So considering the goal of this project is direct seeding, are these tray sown seeds for comparison, insurance, or separate screening for cold soil emergence and/or frost tolerance independent from the direct seeding goal?