and Chris Kott expanded the thought and I will back it up further.
I also want to capture the waste heat in a bench or water to heat the shop in the winter.
Note that he is giving temperatures in Celsius. 1300 degrees = 2372 F, 1500 degrees = 2732 F.
2340 F is cone 10, common high-fired stoneware temperature. 2379 F is cone 12, common porcelain temperature. The Orton cone chart does not have anything to measure above 2530 F.
Lisa Orr wrote:Excited to learn that part of the J tube gets up to 2500! If we can move and collect that heat in the larger box kiln box/cylinder to achieve high temps and somehow combust all the smoke/carbon etc that would be amazing! Right now I am still thinking that we need to have several j tubes feeding one kiln to get the whole thing up to 2000-2400 but excited to learn what is possible.
Lisa in MA
Lisa Orr wrote:.
Someone tell me if this is the same effect as the RMH exit chamber tunnel that burns up the creosote that would stick in a regular stovepipe or chimney?
Or, where does the extra smoke get burned in a RMH? In the j tube? In the barrel bell or eventually in the chimney/bench/mass chamber?
t talianis wrote:Hey everyone,
I'm also in MA.... ceramist who took a break from clay in the past 5 years because of what it takes to mine, glaze, fire etc. But I MISS it. If there was a way to make an efficient RMH kiln, I would love to get in on it and do it. I built a downdraft gas kiln before but not a RMH. Trying to understand how to get it up to cone 6, even cone 04 with sticks. Thanks for starting this thread-- definitely into it!!!
Jennifer Pearson wrote:Not only are the temperature needed for a kiln crazy high, they also need to be fairly even and slow-changing on both heat-up and cool-down to reduce the chances of your piece cracking due to one part expanding/contracting faster than another. This is a situation where big is better than small, both because thermal mass is your friend and because it improves the surface area: volume ratio.
To minimize heat loss through the surface, how about surrounding the highest temperature oven (the kiln) with lower temperature ovens that can be fired up individually? These surrounding ovens could be used for lower-temperature functions, like a forge, annealer, low-fire kiln, or even a pizza oven. If you fill the central kiln with unfired pottery first, and then fire up the exterior ovens for a day or so before starting up the main oven it should help the pottery pre-heat before the main event. It will also reduce any interior temperature gradient due to losses from the surface by sheltering most of the surface from the (relatively cold) ambient air, surrounding it instead with other hot things.