• Post Reply Bookmark Topic Watch Topic
  • New Topic
permaculture forums growies critters building homesteading energy monies kitchen purity ungarbage community wilderness fiber arts art permaculture artisans regional education skip experiences global resources cider press projects digital market permies.com pie forums private forums all forums
this forum made possible by our volunteer staff, including ...
master stewards:
  • Carla Burke
  • John F Dean
  • Timothy Norton
  • Nancy Reading
  • r ranson
  • Jay Angler
  • Pearl Sutton
stewards:
  • paul wheaton
  • Tereza Okava
  • Andrés Bernal
master gardeners:
  • Christopher Weeks
gardeners:
  • Jeremy VanGelder
  • M Ljin
  • Matt McSpadden

Beautiful beginnings

 
gardener
Posts: 1896
Location: N. California
904
2
hugelkultur kids cat dog fungi trees books chicken cooking medical herbs ungarbage
  • Likes 9
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
I'm starting seeds, and I love it. Deciding what to grow, finding the seeds in catalogs, or at the store. Soaking, planting, waiting for them to emerge from the soil. It's such a wonderful experience every time.
I'm blessed to live in an amazing climate where I can garden year round. I have a garden full of winter veggies right now, and I love it.  I could probably plant all my seeds in the garden at the right time, and they would grow. I have read Paul and others believe this is the best way to do it.  I understand the reasons, and I do that method for a lot of my veggies.
That being said I enjoy starting a lot of my veggies in January in doors.  I just love getting an early start. Growing way more than I would ever want to grow myself, and giving away the extra to friends and family.  It fills my heart with joy to see my little greenhouse full of baby veggies waiting to grow.
 
gardener
Posts: 1876
Location: Japan, zone 9a/b, annual rainfall 2550mm, avg temp 1.5-32 C
956
2
kids home care trees cooking bike woodworking ungarbage
  • Likes 3
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
Similar experience here, I'm still trying to figure out how to make the most out of my little seed starting greenhouse. It's definitely been helpful for filling in gaps that open up as I harvest vegetables like carrots.

I tend to have too many starts of one thing and not enough of another. And some things just don't germinate for me.

I'm still very much a beginner trying a little bit of everything with mixed results.

My two beds of broadcast polyculture greens are growing up. I think they're going to take off as soon as the sun angle comes up a little more. Right now they're all about 2 inches or less and all nibbled on by snails... But growing anyway.
 
pollinator
Posts: 3915
Location: Kent, UK - Zone 8
721
books composting toilet bee rocket stoves wood heat homestead
  • Likes 9
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
We put surplus plants out by our honesty box for selling eggs. No such thing as "too many" plants :P

We have depended pretty heavily on our greenhouse for seed starting over the past few years. Some stuff does well directly planted, but over the past few years a lot of new germinating stuff just gets eaten. We have rabbit proofed our veggie area over the last year, so I am hoping we will have more success direct planting this year.
 
steward & manure connoisseur
Posts: 4508
Location: South of Capricorn
2482
dog rabbit urban cooking writing homestead ungarbage
  • Likes 8
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator

Jen Fulkerson wrote:I could probably plant all my seeds in the garden at the right time, and they would grow....
That being said.....


I am in a similar environment and also start nearly all my seeds in flats. Just last week I planted seeds in the ground for the first time in ages (except for beans and pumpkins)-- I think when you can go year round, it's so much easier to start in flats so you can rip one thing out and pop something else in. Also when you're constantly going, things that take longer to start may get "lost"-- I know chard is one of these plants I'm constantly losing-- three months later I'll find a plant and say, what, how did you get there, having entirely forgotten I planted there. (I journal inconsistently, what can I say.).
Still, I put in Summer Round 2 last week- early start on fall greens, more beans. Some cilantro to start under the corn, which should be done in the next month. It's such great fun.

(also, just a note, those dark sunflowers on the cover of Baker Creek.... I've got a yard full of them and they are 100% fabulous.)
WhatsApp-Image-2022-01-03-at-16.19.25.jpeg
dark sunflower
dark sunflower
 
gardener
Posts: 2564
Location: Ladakh, Indian Himalayas at 10,500 feet, zone 5
890
trees food preservation solar greening the desert
  • Likes 3
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
Ahhh, it's way too early to start seeds here now, except to stratify. But I'm getting itchy fingers!

Just to entertain myself in mid-winter, I'll post some seedlings from last year. I started these in March and April, in re-used yogurt cups and tetrapaks, starting on the square meter of heated floor in my living room. As they germinate, I move them to a sunny window for the daytime and back to the heated floor for night. As the greenhouse warms up, I move them to the greenhouse and back, and eventually into the greenhouse full-time until it's time to plant out. I learned that I sowed too early, and should start later next time.

For plants that can be pricked out and separated into more cups, like tomatoes, I sow six per cup. Or for teeny seeds like petunias or portulaca, it's a pinch in each. For cucurbits, it's just 2 seeds per 1-liter tetrapak, to be thinned to one. I number the pots and keep notes in a word document that stays open on my laptop.

2021-03-30-seedlings-in-yogurt-cups-in-window.jpg
Seedlings in a sunny window for the day
Seedlings in a sunny window for the day
2021-04-16-seedlings-out-in-greenhouse-for-daytime.jpg
Seedlings sunning in the greenhouse during the day
Seedlings sunning in the greenhouse during the day
2021-04-27-cucurbit-seedlings-in-tetrapaks.jpg
Squash and melons sown in tetrapaks that can be torn off for planting out
Squash and melons sown in tetrapaks that can be torn off for planting out
Screenshot-of-seedling-notes.png
Notes about numbered seeding pots
Notes about numbered seeding pots
 
Posts: 85
Location: Southwestern NM
42
forest garden chicken greening the desert
  • Likes 2
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
Ha! I got the bug,  too. It's technically too cold and too early to plant things out here, but we have wonky weather and plenty of false springs in which things might be grown, so I'm going for it.

I think it's true that planting things out at the right time works wonders and makes healthy, easy plants, but here in the high desert I run up against a lot of problems getting seeds to germinate in the garden. Mostly, once the night temps are warm enough, the sun is already too harsh for the seedlings.  And trying to keep the soil consistently moist enough for germination is difficult. It dries out in a flash.

I'm working on improving my soil, but it's a long process.  I'm also working on getting more shade, which is key here. I hope that one day, I'll be able to just plant everything in the ground.  (Or better yet, have mostly perennials.) In the meantime, I was wondering if my fellow permies had any seed-starting tricks. This year, I'm planting into a mixture of coco coir, worm castings, and perlite. Also doing an informal experiment where half the seedlings are in a mixture that has a bit of Espoma Biotone mixed in (because I love that stuff and have seen some good results with it on seedlings before). Also, I decided to plant an alfalfa seedling with each plant. I think the nitrogen fixing ability won't be present right away, but if nothing else, I can just plant them out together and have instant companions.  This is one of those "why not" experiments, but not sure if it'll do any good or possible harm.  Has anyone else ever tried it?  I'm assuming the alfalfa will do best with the Biotone acting as an innoculant.
 
Jen Fulkerson
gardener
Posts: 1896
Location: N. California
904
2
hugelkultur kids cat dog fungi trees books chicken cooking medical herbs ungarbage
  • Likes 2
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
Trish, I'd love to help you, but I'm still in the figuring it out stage myself. You have an interesting experiment going there, I look forward to hearing how it goes.
I did learn last year as soon as the seedlings get a set of true leaves they need to be fed. I try to transplant them into a bigger pot with a good organic compost mixed with some of the seed starting mix. I also tried to give them a diluted compost tea once a week. Of course this didn't always happen.  Last year I was very pleased with the results for most of my seedlings. I was at the end of the hardening off, just about to plan my beautiful veggies in the garden, and my chickens got out, and devoured the lot.  I had to buy everything that couldn't be directly seeded.  You just never know.  
I planted some squash seeds at the same time I planted the squash and zucchini plants because it was one we really liked, and can't get at the store.  I couldn't believe it, but those seeds were up and producing in a month. It was amazing. I don't start my squash inside anymore.  
One of the best things about gardening is I'm always learning something new. Good luck, and happy gardening.
 
Posts: 2
  • Likes 3
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
It's still chilly here, snow/sleet forecast for tonight...but I *think* I have all my seeds ordered for the new season, and it's tough sitting on my hands, waiting to start them
 
pollinator
Posts: 1195
Location: Boston, Massachusetts
525
6
urban books building solar rocket stoves ungarbage
  • Likes 1
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
Here is a link to a local (to me... in New England) printmaker's website, and a particular work that I am reminded of this time of year, titled "Seed Catalogues Arrive in January"
J. Ann Eldridge - printmaker
 
Jen Fulkerson
gardener
Posts: 1896
Location: N. California
904
2
hugelkultur kids cat dog fungi trees books chicken cooking medical herbs ungarbage
  • Likes 3
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
Like I said earlier I'm still learning, well when it comes to gardening I'm always learning, but let's say I'm in the early stages when it comes to starting seeds indoors.  I realized I should have put tomatoes, peppers and eggplant in a tray to start together.  Not mixed a large variety of seeds at the same time. Now I have cucumber that I will probably have to restart. I think I left the heat mat under the seeds to long for some seeds waiting for the peppers. So some are long and spindly.  Some I will restart inside, and a few I will just wait and plant in the garden.  I realized I should be writing down what works and what doesn't. I always think I'm going to remember, but I often forget. I will write down some seed starting notes for myself, so I don't keep making the same mistakes.
I also got a new grow light. The one I have is great, 3 goose neck lights with a timer that turns it on and off. The way things are growing I was thinking it's just not enough light, especially for 2 trays of seedlings.  I found one I could afford.  I doesn't have a stand, or a timer, but is so much more light. I'm pretty sure I have a timer around, and if not they aren't expensive, and I can build a frame for the light out of scrap lumber.  I think it's going to help a lot.  
 
pollinator
Posts: 239
Location: North Central Kentucky
63
dog trees chicken cooking sheep
  • Likes 2
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
I just started some leeks, marigolds, and perennial flowers just to scratch the itch til I start my veggie seeds in March.
 
Rebecca Norman
gardener
Posts: 2564
Location: Ladakh, Indian Himalayas at 10,500 feet, zone 5
890
trees food preservation solar greening the desert
  • Likes 1
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator

Trish Doherty wrote:Mostly, once the night temps are warm enough, the sun is already too harsh for the seedlings.  And trying to keep the soil consistently moist enough for germination is difficult. It dries out in a flash.



Trish, when direct seeding, I've found that scattering light mulch over the soil helps the seeds stay damp enough to germinate. of course not enough much to shade the seeds when they come up, just a scattering of something straw-like, usually in my case old stems and bits. but not whole leaves, even dried up ones, because they'd shade the germinating seeds.

About direct seeding versus transplanting: last summer I started one tetrapak each of winter squash, with two seeds in each. I started them in April and transplanted out in May when it was warm enough. At the same time I planted out, I also direct seeded some.

The Lofthouse Maxima that was started indoors produced 5 large mature squash for a total of over 20 kg, like 50 lb. Plus one or two smaller immature ones that I had to take in before first frost. The kabocha produced 4 mature and two immature squash before frost, but they were all under 2 kg each.

The 5 direct seeded Lofthouse Maximas produced only one mature and one immature squash each, and all but one of those were much smaller than the 5 fruits on the single transplanted vine.

So I've very happy to continue starting the winter squash inside 3 or 4 weeks before they can be planted out. I plant them in one-liter tetrapaks, filled with half sand and half compost, rinsed by draining through with fresh water a couple of times. At planting out time, I dig a hole deep enough, then stand the tetrapak in the hole and carefully tear away the tetrapak. I haven't lost a single plant I've transplanted this way. Usually both seeds have germinated and then survive transplanting so I have to thin later.
 
Trish Doherty
Posts: 85
Location: Southwestern NM
42
forest garden chicken greening the desert
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator



Trish, when direct seeding, I've found that scattering light mulch over the soil helps the seeds stay damp enough to germinate. of course not enough much to shade the seeds when they come up, just a scattering of something straw-like, usually in my case old stems and bits. but not whole leaves, even dried up ones, because they'd shade the germinating seeds.

About direct seeding versus transplanting: last summer I started one tetrapak each of winter squash, with two seeds in each. I started them in April and transplanted out in May when it was warm enough. At the same time I planted out, I also direct seeded some.

The Lofthouse Maxima that was started indoors produced 5 large mature squash for a total of over 20 kg, like 50 lb. Plus one or two smaller immature ones that I had to take in before first frost. The kabocha produced 4 mature and two immature squash before frost, but they were all under 2 kg each.

The 5 direct seeded Lofthouse Maximas produced only one mature and one immature squash each, and all but one of those were much smaller than the 5 fruits on the single transplanted vine.

So I've very happy to continue starting the winter squash inside 3 or 4 weeks before they can be planted out. I plant them in one-liter tetrapaks, filled with half sand and half compost, rinsed by draining through with fresh water a couple of times. At planting out time, I dig a hole deep enough, then stand the tetrapak in the hole and carefully tear away the tetrapak. I haven't lost a single plant I've transplanted this way. Usually both seeds have germinated and then survive transplanting so I have to thin later.



Hey,  Rebecca! That's quite a difference and sounds definitely worthwhile to start the squash inside.  Oddly enough, squash is one of the few things I've had luck with seeding directly.  I will try your trick with the mulch and see if I can get it just right for my area.  Honestly, I think most seedlings would be happy for a little shade, here.  We're at 6000 ft elevation and the sun gets really intense here, so I'm always trying to get more shade into my garden. We also have really drying winds, so maybe some mulch will help shield seedlings from that a little.

I'm sure I'll continue starting things inside, even if I master the art of outdoor seed starting.  Carrying for those green little babies gets my soul through winter.  :)
 
gardener
Posts: 5430
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio,Price Hill 45205
1118
forest garden trees urban
  • Likes 1
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
I am enamored of the technique and technology of starting my own plants more than the act itself, but I've decided that that's OK.

I will be winter sowing some squash, since the melons I wintersowed last year turned out to be delicious butternut squash!
I think I planted two two hole,  but I'm not sure.
Either way I got a yield from plants I basically ignored.
With better fertilization and watering, I hope to get  more.

I am designing sub irrigation trays for the containers, so they won't suffer from my lack of focus.
That's what happened to a lot of my winter sown plants last year.

I will be growing sweet potatoe greens/slips.
I'm seeking out less sweet varieties because I don't like pie for dinner.
Any excess of slips will become food for people and rabbits.

My basement dwelling pepper plant is pale but surviving.
It's under constant light, I didn't bother to put it on a timer.
It gets sub irrigated but not fertilized.

There are garlic and onions growing with the houseplants,  but only as a deterrent for fungus gnats.
I'm not sure if it works, but it doesn't seem to hurt.

I want to start seeds like a normal person but my space is mess, and clearing up space for seed starting always brings other priorities to the surface.
This makes winter sowing attractive.
Plus, I can't stop thinking of new methods and devices.
Clearing a table for starts makes me thinking "wouldn't a set of shelves be better? What about a cabinet, to keep them warm and moist? I could repurpose a refrigerator! Should it have a fan?
Should it just be for germinate,  or also a grow box? Has anyone done this before?
They have? Oh its the "recreational growers" , they're highly motivated and knowledgeable!"
And down the rabbit hole I go.

I'll get my setup done eventually, and I'll have fun doing it but this year it'll be more wintersowing,plus a few "houseplants"

 
Does this tiny ad smell okay to you?
A book about better recipes for green living
https://greenlivingbook.com/
reply
    Bookmark Topic Watch Topic
  • New Topic