thomas rubino wrote:Hi Dan;
When you are creating your post , down at the bottom left of the page is the attachment button. click it to attach photos. It will prompt you to upload a file (photo) after the first you click on add another attachment If your photos are on your computer it will automatically take you there. Photo size is important as well. Too large and they won't down load. I think it likes 900 x 700 ??? for a size but it will do larger slowly sometimes.
Your idea of covering the bricks around your feed tube.
If you bring that stone up even with the edge of the feed tube to cover the firebrick , then you are effectively raising the height of the feed tube. This could be allowed for in your build by shortening the feed tube, the thickness of your decorative stone.
If your feed tube becomes too tall, then it will try to become the riser. Not a good thing.
Average feed tube is 16" deep. if you shorten that to 14" and lay a 2" thick slab of soapstone on top of your bricks ... I would guess you would be looking at temps of 400-500 F at the bottom of your stone. I think granite would crack.
Silence is Golden
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Staci Kopcha wrote:Hi,
I am also learning about wood. Much of the free wood I have scavenged is pretty crappy. I supplement with pallet wood and some of the better wood. I think I may have to buy some (going for $120/half cord out here), or locate a load of pallets.
Dan Hatfield Ii wrote:
Anyhow. I live somewhere hot and pretty dry and you live somewhere cool and damp so it's a lot more important for you to have a good drying setup.
Perhaps ask your husband to build a small solar wood kiln rather than a woodshed.
Thanks
Dan
Staci Kopcha wrote:
Dan Hatfield Ii wrote:
Anyhow. I live somewhere hot and pretty dry and you live somewhere cool and damp so it's a lot more important for you to have a good drying setup.
Perhaps ask your husband to build a small solar wood kiln rather than a woodshed.
Thanks
Dan
Not sure what grows out your way except the cliche'd eucalyptus.
Staci
For all your Montana Masonry Heater parts (also known as) Rocket Mass heater parts.
Visit me at
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thomas rubino wrote:Hi Stacie;
Your now at a part of your build that I have never done.
Staci Kopcha wrote:
Questions:
- When do I transition to structural (straw) cob for the bench??
-How thick a layer of structural cob should there be, before the final finish layer. (that will be another can of worms!)
-In trying to mold/shape the bench and outer manifold (creative juices), can I just slap cob and rocks and go to town??
Thank you.
Silence is Golden
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Staci Kopcha wrote:
thomas rubino wrote:Hi Stacie;
Your now at a part of your build that I have never done.
Hi Thomas,
Directions seem a bit "fuzzy" at this point, even from what I have read/watched/tried to research. A bit disconcerting.
I am gone all weekend, but hope to get back to cobbing next week. Will just muddle forward.
Today I removed the top perlite layer that I added to the tower. Didn't notice any difference. I am thinking perhaps you were right with weather/pressure systems in terms of the difference in draft. It was only twice out of the more than a dozen fires I have done.
I think learning wood, etc. is key as well.
I will keep you posted.
Thank You!
For all your Montana Masonry Heater parts (also known as) Rocket Mass heater parts.
Visit me at
dragontechrmh.com Once you go brick you will never go back!
thomas rubino wrote:Hi Stacie;
Those are all symptoms of a not dry mass. My mass is larger than yours and it took almost 2 months of all day burning, before the pipe at the end of the run really started heating up.
I think you are having a less than bone dry wood issue.
Keep cobbing and keep BURNING! I promise it will get better!
Staci Kopcha wrote:
2) Fire: In tending the fire, it is VERY high maintenance and finicky. There are quite a few instances where the flames rise up out of the fuel feed and/or smoke. It seems to happen most with any bits of wood that are NOT round: Flat pieces of pallet wood and pieces of diced up wood rounds...regardless of the length of the piece.
I am VERY conscious of not over-stuffing the feed box and maintaining good airflow into the tunnel and through the tunnel.
Silence is Golden
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God of procrastination https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q1EoT9sedqY
Satamax Antone wrote:The solution to not having to babysit the fire, for ma; has been to build a batch.
Gerry Parent wrote:[ easier times are just around the corner!
Thank you for all your updates!
Staci Kopcha wrote:
Satamax Antone wrote:The solution to not having to babysit the fire, for ma; has been to build a batch.
I see definitely see the appeal in that! Perhaps once all is said and done, I will revisit the j-tube format.
Is it a modification that could be done to my current system, or does it demand another? Regardless, it is for the future.
I AM pleased that tonight my little RMH raised my entire house temp. to 71 degrees!! I have never set the heater thermostat that high, ever.
Worth a little babysitting, I suppose.
S.
God of procrastination https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q1EoT9sedqY
For all your Montana Masonry Heater parts (also known as) Rocket Mass heater parts.
Visit me at
dragontechrmh.com Once you go brick you will never go back!
Gerry Parent wrote:!
Silence is Golden
For all your RMH needs:
dragontechrmh.com
Gerry Parent wrote:How to Train your Dragon .... from being a Puff the Magic Dragon!
For all your Montana Masonry Heater parts (also known as) Rocket Mass heater parts.
Visit me at
dragontechrmh.com Once you go brick you will never go back!
thomas rubino wrote:Hi Stacie; Looking good ! Is it drafting better ?
For all your Montana Masonry Heater parts (also known as) Rocket Mass heater parts.
Visit me at
dragontechrmh.com Once you go brick you will never go back!
God of procrastination https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q1EoT9sedqY
For all your Montana Masonry Heater parts (also known as) Rocket Mass heater parts.
Visit me at
dragontechrmh.com Once you go brick you will never go back!
Satamax Antone wrote:Can't remember who. But someone said burn thé sticking out straw, before rendering.
Staci Kopcha wrote:
Satamax Antone wrote:Can't remember who. But someone said burn thé sticking out straw, before rendering.
I heard that as well. I will use the small propane torch and clean it up first.
Thanks!
Silence is Golden
For all your RMH needs:
dragontechrmh.com
thomas rubino wrote:Well if it is too rough with the straw finish then give it a smooth thin coat with no straw as sort of a primer and it will look better as well.
I would think that any sculpting , designing would be done before a finish coat.
I have no clue what is best used to finish / seal . I'm sure there will be others that have a done this who will chime in.
Silence is Golden
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Staci Kopcha wrote:
IS there a layer between straw cob and finish coat? A plaster "primer" so to speak?
Do designs, shapes, mosaics go into the final final layer??
Thank you!
Silence is Golden
For all your RMH needs:
dragontechrmh.com
Dan Hatfield Ii wrote:
I don't have any experience with clay plaster but I have a little owith lime plastering. I had a friend plaster my studio and he did a marvellous job. We were short on time so he plastered and I prepared the mix.
Screen the sand though aluminium window cloth/screen (i don't know what you call it) I'd screen the clay too through it..
Sorry, that's all I have. I believe clay in much easier to work with than lime. Lime dries quickly
Staci Kopcha wrote:
Hi Dan,
What was the mix you used? Sand, clay, lime? Did you use hay or horse manure?? Regular run of the mill garden lime?
Thanks!
please buy this thing and then I get a fat cut of the action:
Rocket Mass Heater Jamboree And Updates
https://permies.com/t/170234/Rocket-Mass-Heater-Jamboree-Updates
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