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evan's ant village log

 
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Day 79 (part 2 of 2)

It was crazy hot this afternoon, and it's only supposed to get hotter over the weekend. Instead of having our hands-on session in the hottest part of the day, we went on a trip to go swimming in the river. It was great to chill out and observe the lushness of a riparian ecosystem.

This evening, we had a hands-on session up on the lab. A mulch crew gathered up manure-rich hay and delivered it to Jesse's plot so he can make some compost. A planting crew put some seaberry and honeyberry bushes in the ground on both mine and Jesse's plot. And everyone else helped to cut, haul, and limb small trees for the fence around Hamelot. Thanks everyone for all the awesome help!
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the lovely river
the lovely river
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honeyberry
honeyberry
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ham ham Hamelot
ham ham Hamelot
 
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Yes, thanks Evan. And, re: Julia's comment, thanks for 'bring us along' so comprehensively, especially with your wonderful notes.

Julia also made the PV1 come alive for me with her amazing notes from each speaker. Still grateful to her for that.... and now to you. (Among, of course, all the other spectacular 'sharers' on Permies ;)
 
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Hi Evan,
Here is a quick edited video of your tour of your site at Ant Village



Edited by moderator to embed video
 
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It was interesting to see your acre, Evan. Now it's easier for me to visualize what you're trying to do.
 
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One thing the video tour made me think is that one of the downsides to the ant village challenge is that you need to do things in a hurry. That means you really can't take the time to observe a lot, so you might miss some things or misallocate stuff in the name of expediency. It might take a few years of observation to really get to know your land. Thankfully it doesn't seem like you'll be doing much of anything that wouldn't be able to be undone.
 
evan l pierce
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Day 80 (part 1 of 2)

Today's topic of the permaculture design course was Water. Jeremy started off the discussion with some of what water does for us. Water fosters life processes, can be used to develop productive food systems, and to develop hydraulic means of energy production.

97% of the water on Earth is saltwater. Of the 3% remaining freshwater, 75% is frozen as ice or snow, 13.5% is deep (800+ meters deep) groundwater, 11% is shallow (less than 800 meters deep,) groundwater, 0.3% is in lakes and ponds, 0.06% is in the soil, 0.035% is in the atmosphere, and 0.03% is in rivers.

Aquifers are deep groundwater, the deep storage basins of the earth's freshwater supply. Aquifers can't be recharged effectively and so are a relatively finite and precious resource. The water table is where our wells usually draw from, the shallow groundwater, and it can be recharged.

Water wants to take the shortest route downhill, following gravity and running perpendicular to contour lines. But as permies we want to keep water on our land for as long as possible.

Forests recycle about 74% of the water passing through. Evaporation rates are extremely low in a fully shaded canopy, the roots of trees are highly efficient at capturing and storing water, and the layers of deep leaf litter and natural hugels act like a massive sponge that holds water and releases it very slowly. Water coheres to itself, and adheres to other surfaces, making biological storage, and thereby life itself, possible.

There are several ways to store water in ponds, and understanding the landscape is key to determining which methods to use. A saddle is the area between two ridges, and if you have such a landform, you can build a saddle dam. A ridgepoint dam is built on a descending ridgeline. A keypoint is the place in a landscape where a slope meets flatter land, or where the land goes from convex to concave. Keypoint dams often offer the greatest catchment for the least work, and once established can be easily used to irrigate slopes lower down. Contour dams are built on contour where the slope is 8 degrees or less. A barrier dam is built across running water, like a stream or river, and needs a fish ladder. A check dam is built across swales or channels. A gabion is a kind of dam constructed of stacked stone or a stone-filled wire cage. And a turkey nest is a kind of donut-shaped dam that can be built on flat land and is mainly for storage rather than catchment.

Ponds can be sited to reflect sunlight, causing a sort of double-sun effect, and if placed uphill can be used to passively gravity-feed water downhill. When building a pond, first dig down a bit both where the pond will be and also where the dam will be. You're looking for soil with a clay content of at least 30%. A model can be built and tested using the materials you plan to use for the actual pond. Plan your spill ways to be able to deal with maximum rainfall and overflow. Ponds can be aligned long ways to the prevailing winds to increase aeration and to reduce evaporation. By the time the wind reaches the middle of a long pond, the air is saturated and so you lose less water to evaporation. Keep the pond shaded to reduce evaporation as well. Use rocks along the edges to hold heat and provide habitat, and be sure to seed the banks to minimize erosion and evaporative losses, and to take advantage of this saturated soil for growing.

A dam should be slightly crowned on the crest, like a road, so that water doesn't pool there and wash the dam away. Freeboard is the distance between the top of the dam and the top of the water in the pond, and your freeboard should be at least 3 ft. The key of a dam is a compacted, impervious layer tied into a clay layer underneath. The key runs through the core of a dam. A pipe, like Sepp's monks mentioned a few posts back, can be used to drain water out of a pond. A spillway designed to handle overflow should be located off to the side of, rather than through, the dam, and should be low enough to maintain your 3 ft freeboard. Spillways can divert overflow to swales or other elements of the system.

Water can be siphoned into or out of ponds, and roads can be used to catch and divert rainwater into ponds. Islands can give ducks sanctuary from predators. Too much nitrogen or fertilization in ponds can cause eutrophication. The more edges a pond has, the more opportunity for production, habitat, and filtration.

Ponds can be sealed a number of ways. Gleying is the process of using animal manure to create a soppy, anaerobic layer 6 to 9 inches deep. Ducks, cattle, and especially pigs can be used to seal ponds this way. Clay, especially Bentonite clay, is great for sealing ponds. An excavator with an articulating bucket, like a giant fist, can grind, vibrate, and pound the bottom of a pond to compact and seal it. Explosives have also been used to seal ponds.

Understanding contour is important to siting ponds, dams, and other water features. An a-frame level can be used to find contour.

There are many effective ways to acquire water besides simple wells. Rainwater catchment systems can be built with first-flush diverters so that the water collected has less debris in it. Airwells are large stacks or piles of rocks; the outer rocks are in the sun and heat up, while the inner rocks are shaded and stay cool, so condensation forms on the inner rocks and causes moisture to collect. Fog collectors are like giant nets drained to gutters that trap and store the moisture of fog and mist. Humus wells utilize deep-rooted trees to catch water.

Greywater can be diverted from showers, laundry, and sinks, and reused in the landscape. It can be sent to mulch basins around woody species that filter the water while using it to produce fruit, into artificial wetlands where species like cattail efficiently convert the contained nutrients to soil, into mycofiltration systems with fungi that bind up or break down toxins, or any combination of the above. Ultimately, once biologically filtered, it can re-enter your productive water systems.

Other water systems include chinampas, (highly productive garden systems that maximize edge,) curb cuts, (an urban technique for collecting street run-off,) wicking beds, (a garden irrigation system where water is added down low, causing plants to grow deeper roots,) ollas, (a similar irrigation method where a sub-surface pot is filled with water that is seeped into the soil lower down to encourage deep root growth,) drip irrigation, (a method of irrigation that attempts to minimize water use,) and aquaponics, (intensive hydroponic systems that grow plants and fish together in symbiosis.)

Cyanobacteria are a highly prolific and successful nitrogen-fixing form of aquatic life that can be used to increase fertility in, for example, rice paddies.

Riparian buffers are densely vegetated strips of land along rivers and streams that can protect waterways from pollution and also shade the water to prevent evaporative losses.

Natural swimming pools use plants to clean and filter water rather than toxic chemicals like chlorine. They can be used for food production as well as swimming.

Microhydro systems utilize flowing or falling water to generate electricity or run machines. A ram pump is a device that uses the water hammer effect to develop pressure that lifts a portion of the input water to a higher elevation than it started. A trompe is a water-powered gas compressor.

Howard gave us a few formulas:

Spillway lengths should be equal in meters to the square of the catchment area in hectares.

Rainwater harvested from a solid surface (gallons) = (catchment area in sq. ft.) x (max inches of rainfall) x (conversion factor 0.623) -Or- 1 inch of rainfall on 1 sq. ft. surface = approximately 0.6 gallons

A water tank at 10 meters high gives 1 BAR of pressure, (which is the typical water pressure in cities.)

Other things to consider when building a dam include: Clay should be packed on the inner and pond-side of the dam, as well as the bottom of the pond, but leave the ground uphill of the pond natural to store water in the soil uphill. Try not to site ponds or dams on rock, sand, or gravel, as these materials are too-well-draining. A dam slope should be at least 2:1, but 5:1 is better. Don't plant trees or plants with deep roots on a dam.

The cheapest way to store water is in the soil. The next cheapest is to store it in ponds/dams. And storing it in tanks is expensive.

For water security, utilize as many different sources as possible: rainwater, wells, springs, ponds, soakage, condensation, and greywater.

To summarize the permaculture approach to water, we want water to take the longest path, over the most distance, over the most time, traveling as slowly as possible, with the most passive friction, rubbing up against as many living things as possible.
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Jeremy on water
Jeremy on water
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some dams
some dams
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alder maybe?
alder maybe?
 
evan l pierce
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Day 80 (part 2 of 2)

The hands-on session today was up at Jesse's ant plot, and we learned about building an a-frame level and finding contours. Jesse already has a decent amount of experience with permaculture design, so it was great to have him teaching this important technique. Thanks Jesse!

Seeing the contours of Jesse's plot flagged out had me reconsidering how I've been going about my own design. I'm not sure I will take the time to find all the contours of my entire plot, (some of the stuff I've built or am in the process of building is kind of in the way, and a lot of my plans involve changing contours or deliberately building things like giant hugels oriented catywompus to them,) but it seems like valuable information, and I think I may at least map out the contours of Avalon before undertaking any serious earthworks there.
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a-frame levels
a-frame levels
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contours flagged
contours flagged
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a black and gold beetle
a black and gold beetle
 
evan l pierce
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Day 81

Today was a day off from the PDC, and lots of folks went into Missoula to see the market and whatnot. Yesterday evening Devin helped me get the fence around Hamelot ham-proofed. And today Heather, Curtis, and I went and picked up Sir Chops from Abe's farm and got him situated in Hamelot. Abe has a pretty sweet little farm on the edge of Missoula and I'm looking forward to learning about butchering from him tomorrow. Sir Chops is a wily little guy, and I didn't get a very good picture of him yet, but he seems to be enjoying his stay here so far. He has lots of water to drink and splash in and even some dumpster-dived organic yogurts to eat, so hopefully he won't even feel the need to try to escape, but if he does try, I think the fence will hold. I guess we'll see in the morning.
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Abe's farm
Abe's farm
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slop for Sir Chops
slop for Sir Chops
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Sir Chops in Hamelot after dusk
Sir Chops in Hamelot after dusk
 
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crossing my fingers that your pen holds. I liked that the video explained how that fence was put together! helps a lot!
 
evan l pierce
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Day 82 (part 1 of 2)

Sir Chops is right at home in Hamelot, with plenty of shade, water, and occasional slop. He's already put in some work fertilizing and rooting and digging and spilling his water to make a wallow. Nice job, Sir Chops, keep up the good work!

Haven't heard from Abe, but to be honest, I'm relieved that we won't be slaughtering and butchering Sir Chops just yet. There's still plenty of work for him to do in Hamelot, and I think it's better for him to have some time to relax and de-stress from being moved.

The fence seems to be holding so far.
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tail a wagging
tail a wagging
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Sir Chops in Hamelot
Sir Chops in Hamelot
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pennycress
pennycress
 
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