Dale Hodgins wrote:Good one.
Chris Kott wrote: Next we'll be reinventing the wheel.
I've done that in several cases where there was nothing to fix.
I enjoy the flurry and bluster of old fashioned maul splitting. I always use a full 360 rotation using the legs and back. Arms are just there to hold onto the handle. Quality equipment that is sized to fit the operator, rubber grippy gloves and a maul head that will not leave the handle, all contribute to safety.
The old tire thing works pretty well. Frozen wood often splits better than it would in warm weather. Quite often, energy is wasted when wood is lifted to a wiggly chopping block and then the first swing topples it. I have used a really solid scrap of 1 inch plywood which was frozen to concrete as my chopping block. A super solid backing like this causes all of the force to go into the chunk that is being split. The maul travels a little further and hits harder when the wood rests at ground level. KA BAM.
Splitting big wood just isn't a job for sissies. Get the best maul for your strength and stature and swing it like you're trying to win a prize at the fair. KA BAM !!!
The Darwin award for wood splitting should go to the Unicorn. This video has been around for several years and as of last month, the star still has four limbs. Enjoy ---
I've used this method on some large cuts myself. I find that when I'm splitting any wood, the splitting become immensely easier somehow as soon as the cambium has been cut into. I'm not sure why that is the case, exactly, but once I even cleave one of these outer crescents off, I can often get a full split happening down the middle. Sometimes it takes a few, but I often do not have to go around and around as you describe. I don't have huge hardwood though. Generally I've had to do this with really big gnarly spruce, or birch.
ith these rounds I start hitting them parallel to the edge of the round about 3 inches from the edge. The cuts resemble a hexagon or octagon depending on how large the rounds are. Usually by the second time around the planks begin splitting off leaving behind a core that splits in the traditional wedge shape.
Roberto pokachinni wrote:I find that when I'm splitting any wood, the splitting become immensely easier somehow as soon as the cambium has been cut into.
Generally I've had to do this with really big gnarly spruce, or birch.
I have used the zipper myself, though I never had a name for it. I sometimes forget to do this with the smaller wood as you mention with your method here:
zipper it. Run the chainsaw down the length of the logs to cut just through the bark.
This is a good idea with birch as it holds so much moisture.
If they are too small to bother splitting and I'm only going to stack them, the zipper lets the moisture out much better so the birch dries instead of rotting.
paul wheaton wrote:
Here is this contraption at amazon: https://amazon.com/dp/B01KKU8Z0Q
paul wheaton wrote:Over the years I have seen stuff about safer ways of chopping wood - but this is the first time I saw this contraption. Very interesting.
But of these sorts of contraptions, this appears to be the biggest seller at amazon:
I've found the kindling cracker that you reference above to be an absolutely outstanding tool. It has probably saved me at least three fingers at this point. Well worth the money!