• Post Reply Bookmark Topic Watch Topic
  • New Topic
permaculture forums growies critters building homesteading energy monies kitchen purity ungarbage community wilderness fiber arts art permaculture artisans regional education skip experiences global resources cider press projects digital market permies.com pie forums private forums all forums
this forum made possible by our volunteer staff, including ...
master stewards:
  • John F Dean
  • Carla Burke
  • Nancy Reading
  • r ranson
  • Pearl Sutton
  • Jay Angler
stewards:
  • Liv Smith
  • paul wheaton
  • Nicole Alderman
master gardeners:
  • Christopher Weeks
  • Timothy Norton
gardeners:
  • thomas rubino
  • Matt McSpadden
  • Eric Hanson

Safer ways of manually chopping wood

 
steward
Posts: 15477
Location: Northern WI (zone 4)
4826
7
hunting trees books food preservation solar woodworking
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
Thanks for the affirmation Roberto!  

I also saw something else in the video that I should have mentioned as well.  At the 1:10 point he gets the axe stuck in the end of a bigger split.  He lifts the axe and wood overhead and swings it down to use the momentum to split the wood on the axe head.  That is also quite dangerous if the split falls off of the axe head when it's above your head.  If I have that situation, I wouldn't hesitate to lift the axe and split together and drop them onto the splitting block, just don't put it over your head, foot or other soft target.

I like the idea of splitting a 6' circle of wood at the same time but I don't like hitting wood that is that low.  Maybe it's just because I'm too tall but I just prefer to have the wood higher off the ground.  
 
gardener
Posts: 3489
Location: Fraser River Headwaters, Zone3, Lat: 53N, Altitude 2750', Boreal/Temperate Rainforest-transition
689
hugelkultur forest garden fungi trees books food preservation bike solar woodworking
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
No worries, Mike.  I'm the 'basketball star' of my family at 5'5''.  Us hobbits and halflings got to do some stuff diff'rent.      I agree with you about stuff overhead.  The dude, is just all give 'er.  He's gonna hurt himself at some point, or... a get little wiser with a close call... or he's reading this and willing to consider it.  
 
Roberto pokachinni
gardener
Posts: 3489
Location: Fraser River Headwaters, Zone3, Lat: 53N, Altitude 2750', Boreal/Temperate Rainforest-transition
689
hugelkultur forest garden fungi trees books food preservation bike solar woodworking
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
I guy your size might want to build a 6 foot wide chopping block/table to do that method on.  At least with the table, it's easier to get it all into a cart, wheelbarrow, or truck.  
 
Posts: 103
Location: BC Canada Zone 5&6
8
hugelkultur forest garden fungi food preservation bee solar
  • Likes 1
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator

Dale Hodgins wrote:

Chris Kott wrote:  Next we'll be reinventing the wheel.

-CK

     Good one.

I've done that in several cases where there was nothing to fix.

I enjoy the flurry and bluster of old fashioned maul splitting. I always use a full 360 rotation using the legs and back. Arms are just there to hold onto the handle. Quality equipment that is sized to fit the operator, rubber grippy gloves and a maul head that will not leave the handle, all contribute to safety.

The old tire thing works pretty well. Frozen wood often splits better than it would in warm weather.  Quite often, energy is wasted when wood is lifted to a wiggly chopping block and then the first swing topples it.  I have used a really solid scrap of 1 inch plywood which was frozen to concrete as my chopping block. A super solid backing like this causes all of the force to go into the chunk that is being split. The maul travels a little further and hits harder when the wood rests at ground level. KA BAM.

Splitting big wood just isn't a job for sissies. Get the best maul for your strength and stature and swing it like you're trying to win a prize at the fair. KA BAM !!!

The Darwin award for wood splitting should go to the Unicorn.
This video has been around for several years and as of last month, the star still has four limbs. Enjoy ---  





We have been using the Unicorn for 4 years now. Here are my thoughts on it. You always have to remove the wheel and then install this device. It is low to the ground so you are constantly bending. It is easy to use but you are running your vehicle and creating gas fumes you want to be sure you install it on the opposite side and downwind from your muffler.

We are off grid and seniors. Not just because we have to think of our age and safety but ease of splitting not just big logs but also kindling.
We will be building and setting up a new way of doing things this year or next year the latest. Already have much to do this year. I will be sure to post photos and a video whenever we get to it.

My experience tells me the easiest will be the Ingmars klyv IV. It is a manual device that will not need fuel. We can set up a stand to put the logs on that will not need us bending.
We will have 2 tires sizes available that we could use to put on the stand and support the logs so we can simply turn the logs to keep splitting the logs to the desired cut.
2 tires sizes so one will support the larger logs and one to support smaller ones. This way wood does not fall over as you split it.
It is amazing how often a piece of wood when chopped or even as you go to chop will fall over. The stand and tires will save lots of time as well bending over.
As one person brought up, you also need a solid chopping block otherwise energy is wasted. So building a nice stand to work at I hope will allow more force of the hatchet or splitter to split the wood more efficiently.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MD0cp3g6O78

 
Posts: 59
4
  • Likes 1
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
I just buy cut and split wood . I gather fallen branches pine cones and break up brush for starting fires or adding to coals . We do cut down some trees and use the limb wood as well as a bunch of different tools for splitting the larger rounds depending if they are twisted and full of knots . from simple axes to wedges. I also have a large box stove in the garage that takes those huge chunks of knotted woods that I can't burn in my other stoves . I only use wood heat and have 3 stoves.
 
pollinator
Posts: 4958
1194
transportation duck trees rabbit tiny house chicken earthworks building woodworking
  • Likes 1
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
That inertia woodsplitter is pretty impressive, but then again so is an axe when the wood is perfectly straight, light and cut short. If a person really looks at the wood the guy is splitting, it is ideal wood. I would love to have all the left over pieces of wood the guy cannot split with that device for my woodstove.  I just wonder how that would work with knotted, crotched, gnarly elm? Would it be worth it to fabricate the machine on real world pieces of wood?

I am not saying it would be worth it, or not be worth it, I am not sure. And while I understand a person setting up a trial run for YouTube is going to use the best wood that they can, it is not a real world test.



 
Roberto pokachinni
gardener
Posts: 3489
Location: Fraser River Headwaters, Zone3, Lat: 53N, Altitude 2750', Boreal/Temperate Rainforest-transition
689
hugelkultur forest garden fungi trees books food preservation bike solar woodworking
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
I agree Travis.  Although with youtube, a person can choose to film say an hour of stuff and then set up to edit it to a 10 minute video, so it doesn't really stand to reason that there is any constraint on it because it's a youtube trial.  He could edit only splitting gnarly wood, or only straight short wood, but I think that guy is just spltting wood, not splitting hairs.   That said, like you, I would like to see the machine split something less than ideal.  I could split that stuff one handed with a hatchet.  I did see a guy with a similar machine split at least one gnalrly chunk.  It took a couple whacks.   I'll see if I can find it.  
 
Roberto pokachinni
gardener
Posts: 3489
Location: Fraser River Headwaters, Zone3, Lat: 53N, Altitude 2750', Boreal/Temperate Rainforest-transition
689
hugelkultur forest garden fungi trees books food preservation bike solar woodworking
  • Likes 1
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
 

The guy is still splitting weenie wood; probably 9 inches or so.  Half the length of the pine I split by hand.  Though it looks to be harder wood then the other guy was dealing with the working head of his system is also quite a bit lighter.
 
Travis Johnson
pollinator
Posts: 4958
1194
transportation duck trees rabbit tiny house chicken earthworks building woodworking
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
The last one looks a wee bit wimpier, but it also looks like it would be easier to build too. A trade off, but it depends on the person. Probably a good investment as my system now (which is an upside down woodsplitter) involves the consumption of fuel. These two machines do not require that.

Here, where hardwoods abound, firewood is ALWAYS hardwood, but who ever said I was conventional! In the last few years the wood industry has really changed in Maine and low grade paper is no longer produced so softwood prices went from $70 a cord roadside to $10 a cord. On the other hand hardwood went from $40 a cord to $70 roadside. Therefore I have switched over to burning softwood along with a few others. Eastern hemlock gives you almost the same BTU's as hardwood, but its bigger and a bear to split. Still I see little reason to burn hardwood for heat when it has so much value as pulpwood. However I must figure out a better way to split that gnarly wood, that is why I am questioned the wood of which he was splitting.

I talked with the Procurement Forester of a big paper mill here and he said that he does not look for that to change any time soon. The Federal Government just gave them 200 million to put in a new paper machine and its going to use...sadly...hardwood. They are putting in two biomass plants close by too, all in an effort to get the forest products industry cranking again, and everyone is excited about this but me. I have a lot of land tied up in forests, but biomass pays a landowner $1 a cord. To put that in perspective, that is $20 a truckload...and a lot of trees that took a long time to grow. No thanks, I'll burn the junk wood no one wants and sell my hardwood for the highest price.
 
Roberto pokachinni
gardener
Posts: 3489
Location: Fraser River Headwaters, Zone3, Lat: 53N, Altitude 2750', Boreal/Temperate Rainforest-transition
689
hugelkultur forest garden fungi trees books food preservation bike solar woodworking
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
Since part of the issue with your hemlock is it's larger size, you could cut it on a shorter rotation (smaller wood), thus make it a bit easier.  But I can relate.  Hemlock on the North Coast of B.C. where I grew up was our hard wood, besides birch-which was pretty rare.  And the hemlock was challenging for splitting.  My dad eventually built a hydraulic wood splitter, with a garbage truck piston powered by an old forestry pump engine into a wedge made up of two planer blades from a mill welded together.  The basic design was stolen from wimpy production line models.  Ours could go through anything.  Then and now, we mostly burn pine.  It's in abundance, dead from a beetle invasion.
 
Travis Johnson
pollinator
Posts: 4958
1194
transportation duck trees rabbit tiny house chicken earthworks building woodworking
  • Likes 1
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
Yeah I hear ya. I made the mistake a few years ago (1994) of going through a 30 acre stand and thinning out the hemlock pulp (12 inches in diameter or less) and leaving the logs to grow. That is why I have so much bigger stuff. I am going to use some of the bigger logs this year for a new barn; about 12,000 board feet which is quite a bit, but there is still a fai amount left. It has to go because I am clearing this 30 acre area for a new field.

Sadly I have a lot of hemlock on other spots as well, and now it is hard to even get rid of. A paper mill started taking it between Christmas and New Years and got swamped in that one week alone from loggers who had stock piled it just waiting for a place to sell it. Its now mid-March and they have not done that again!

I have a photo someplace of what a mismanaged forest looks like. This is old growth forest that is 100% hemlock and has never even been thinned out as you can tell. I wish I had thinned it out 3 years ago when the forest industry here was at its height and paying really well for wood. Now I got a mess.

 
                        
Posts: 5
  • Likes 1
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
I've been splitting Ash this season. The Emerald Ash Borer has ensured a steady supply in our area for the foreseeable future. We have a masonry heater that takes up to 22 inch logs. The Ash rounds are often too heavy to even lift off the ground at 22 inches long and 20+ inches across. I split them with a Fiskars X27. Really looking forward to trying the bungee/ratchet strap trick next time.

With these rounds I start hitting them parallel to the edge of the round about 3 inches from the edge. The cuts resemble a hexagon or octagon depending on how large the rounds are. Usually by the second time around the planks begin splitting off leaving behind a core that splits in the traditional wedge shape.

I usually use a tire for smaller (liftable) rounds. The key to efficient use of the tire technique is having the tire a step or two from where you're stacking. That wood needs to be lifted anyway, might as well make the splitting easier.

To get a tire rig setup just right, determine exactly how high you need to raise a round off the ground so your (favorite) maul hits the round just past perpendicular to the ground. I initially built mine for 18 inch long logs so it's too high for the 22 inch logs I'm splitting now.

Once the Ash runs out (splits easy) I may change my mind on the 22 inch logs...

Last I checked you can get the X27 at Walmart and Amazon. If you've never tried one, it's the cats meow. I have an 8 pound maul from Council tool that is sitting idle thanks to this little plastic wonder.
 
Roberto pokachinni
gardener
Posts: 3489
Location: Fraser River Headwaters, Zone3, Lat: 53N, Altitude 2750', Boreal/Temperate Rainforest-transition
689
hugelkultur forest garden fungi trees books food preservation bike solar woodworking
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
Hey George.

ith these rounds I start hitting them parallel to the edge of the round about 3 inches from the edge. The cuts resemble a hexagon or octagon depending on how large the rounds are. Usually by the second time around the planks begin splitting off leaving behind a core that splits in the traditional wedge shape.

 I've used this method on some large cuts myself.  I find that when I'm splitting any wood, the splitting become immensely easier somehow as soon as the cambium has been cut into.  I'm not sure why that is the case, exactly, but once I even cleave one of these outer crescents off, I can often get a full split happening down the middle.  Sometimes it takes a few, but I often do not have to go around and around as you describe.  I don't have huge hardwood though.  Generally I've had to do this with really big gnarly spruce, or birch.  
 
Roberto pokachinni
gardener
Posts: 3489
Location: Fraser River Headwaters, Zone3, Lat: 53N, Altitude 2750', Boreal/Temperate Rainforest-transition
689
hugelkultur forest garden fungi trees books food preservation bike solar woodworking
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
and Hey George, Welcome to Permies.  Thanks for posting. :
 
Mike Haasl
steward
Posts: 15477
Location: Northern WI (zone 4)
4826
7
hunting trees books food preservation solar woodworking
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator

Roberto pokachinni wrote:I find that when I'm splitting any wood, the splitting become immensely easier somehow as soon as the cambium has been cut into.

Generally I've had to do this with really big gnarly spruce, or birch.  



I have this with white/paper birch all the time.  One thing I do as soon as I fell a birch is to zipper it.  Run the chainsaw down the length of the logs to cut just through the bark.  Then I cut them into firewood length pieces.  If I'm splitting them I line the axe cut with the bark zipper and they split much easier.  If they are too small to bother splitting and I'm only going to stack them, the zipper lets the moisture out much better so the birch dries instead of rotting.  
 
Roberto pokachinni
gardener
Posts: 3489
Location: Fraser River Headwaters, Zone3, Lat: 53N, Altitude 2750', Boreal/Temperate Rainforest-transition
689
hugelkultur forest garden fungi trees books food preservation bike solar woodworking
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator

zipper it.  Run the chainsaw down the length of the logs to cut just through the bark.  

I have used the zipper myself, though I never had a name for it.  I sometimes forget to do this with the smaller wood as you mention with your method here:

If they are too small to bother splitting and I'm only going to stack them, the zipper lets the moisture out much better so the birch dries instead of rotting.  

 This is a good idea with birch as it holds so much moisture.
 
author and steward
Posts: 51883
Location: missoula, montana (zone 4)
hugelkultur trees chicken wofati bee woodworking
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator


Here is this contraption at amazon:  https://amazon.com/dp/B01KKU8Z0Q

 
paul wheaton
author and steward
Posts: 51883
Location: missoula, montana (zone 4)
hugelkultur trees chicken wofati bee woodworking
  • Likes 2
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator

paul wheaton wrote:



Here is this contraption at amazon:  https://amazon.com/dp/B01KKU8Z0Q



I have been using this contraption a LOT.  This is, by far, better than any of the other contraptions we have here.  Today I noticed that they have a slightly larger one.   I put it in my wishlist and hope to buy it by next winter.

http://amzn.to/2lRJ67I


 
Posts: 523
Location: SW PA USA zone 6a altitude 1188ft Grafter, veggie gardener
23
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
I used a Chopper 2 axe for twenty years. When I google the term I come with Chopper 1's. The one had a wooden handle the two was solid black plastic the same dimension of a wood handle. I heated my house for 20 years using that axe/maul. And, it looked it. The plastic handle was peeled apart, but was still tough enough to work. I had Red Oak, maple, and my favorite Black Cherry. I cut and split an elm once and I agree that's tough work.

The chopper looks like an axe. sorta. There's not really an edge. There's two wedges along side the wedge edge. They keep the chopper from getting wedged into the log. Over the years I also learned to chop off the sides of the log. An advantage of this is what you get from the centers is bark free, read but free wood. If you want to take wood into your attached garage, you want the bark free centers.
 
Mike Haasl
steward
Posts: 15477
Location: Northern WI (zone 4)
4826
7
hunting trees books food preservation solar woodworking
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
I still love my Fiskars X27.  I'm not sure if it's safer but it makes splitting wood so much easier and faster.  The handle is indestructable and makes the head so light you don't even have to slide your hand forward to raise the axe back up for the next swing.

Fiskars X27

Here's a video of a guy trying to break it on a maple.  Skip to the 5 minute mark.  Skip to the 19 minute mark for the shotgun test.

 
Posts: 672
Location: cache county idaho
102
4
duck forest garden fish fungi trees food preservation bee woodworking
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
I like to set the knotty, tough pieces aside and wait until it's about -10 F (about -23 C).  Everything just pops pretty easily then.  After watching the video with the weight you lift and drop on the splitting wedge, I'm tempted to rig a big weight that will ride on my
on my fence driver.  Seems like it would give you a lot more control, and if you put about 15 or 20 lbs on it, it should work well.

Some pieces though are just tough.  Maybe they are good candidates for huggle culture, turn the challenge into an apportunity.  

I had a friend that had a house built.  Part of the contract was that they would leave the bucked wood from the trees on site for him.  When he moved in, he thought the pile looked kind of small.  When he started splitting it, he realized that everything in his pile was a knot or branch.  He marvelled to me how a bunch of trees with 30 feet of clear trunk somehow became a relatively small pile of chunks that all had big knots or  crotches in them.  

Years ago I had the misfortune to try to split some rounds that were about 4 feet across and about 3 feet thick.  They were so full of water that when you hit them with the hammer water just oozed out and the wood formed around the head.  we wore ourselves out and never split one.  They were so heavy that it took couple of guys could roll them onto their side for splitting.  Looking back, the obvious answer should have been to cut them so they are only half the thickness.  In that case, maybe levering them off the ground so they could dry out for a year or two.
 
Travis Johnson
pollinator
Posts: 4958
1194
transportation duck trees rabbit tiny house chicken earthworks building woodworking
  • Likes 1
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
I am moving in a different direction with my firewood now, kind of taking a cue from European's and their firewood, and going with firewood chunkers.

The problem is, firewood chunkers can only take a smallish tree at 4 inches in diameter or so. That means I need about 500 trees a year to heat my home. There are plenty of sources of saplings in terms of per-commercial thinning and along the edges of my fields, but wow that is a lot of individual trees to deal with. So I came up with a 100% mechanized plan.

1. Cut the saplings down with a homemade feller-buncher, loading onto my log trailer and hauling them to a deck.

2. Chunking the firewood up with a homemade machine. That will chunk the trees directly into my dump trailer so I can dump it into my firewood shed.

I have got the first part done, making a homemade feller-buncher. That will speed up the felling and loading of trees. Now I have to build the firewood chunker.

DSCN0011.JPG
[Thumbnail for DSCN0011.JPG]
DSCN0009.JPG
[Thumbnail for DSCN0009.JPG]
DSCN0013.JPG
[Thumbnail for DSCN0013.JPG]
 
Posts: 150
Location: Newfoundland, Canada
3
solar woodworking
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
I've been using iron wedge and mallet. That Anaconda thing is the same idea but much better.
 
Posts: 24
Location: Peacham, VT
3
duck forest garden trees
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator

paul wheaton wrote:Over the years I have seen stuff about safer ways of chopping wood - but this is the first time I saw this contraption.  Very interesting.



But of these sorts of contraptions, this appears to be the biggest seller at amazon:



https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KKU8Z0Q

I've found the kindling cracker that you reference above to be an absolutely outstanding tool. It has probably saved me at least three fingers at this point. Well worth the money!




 
Posts: 1
Location: Sweden
wood heat woodworking
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
I also bought the Kindling Cracker XL. Never felt convertible with make kindling's by hand, so bought them a the local hardware store.. until I came across the Kindling Cracker. Really love the product.
 
pollinator
Posts: 161
Location: north west Michigan
68
7
duck fish tiny house books chicken composting toilet bike bee solar rocket stoves
  • Likes 1
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
Has anyone tried the 'Splitz all' two handed slide hammer? It looks like it would be nice especially with a bungee setup. They are pricey, but may be worth it in the long run.

 
paul wheaton
author and steward
Posts: 51883
Location: missoula, montana (zone 4)
hugelkultur trees chicken wofati bee woodworking
  • Likes 2
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
This thing was something like $140.  I bought it at about $120 - and it is worth every penny.   And now it is $80



https://amzn.to/352G45l

 
pollinator
Posts: 3847
Location: Marmora, Ontario
591
4
hugelkultur dog forest garden fungi trees rabbit urban wofati cooking bee homestead
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
For ease of use, I can't really argue, Paul. I can see it being especially easy and safe to use with children just picking up useful adult duties.

But I think it's a solution geared towards your specific needs, which is why you've found it useful. Questions remain in my mind about the limits of it's usefulness. Aside from the fact that you need relatively straight, narrow lumber, and the gif appears to show the device being used to split quartered logs into kindling, I wonder how well it does on whole logs, and how large those whole logs can be before they jam between the upper ring and the wedge.

I certainly don't see anyone splitting even a normal face cord with this, let alone a bush cord, let alone what is required for any reasonable winter, but only because it appears geared towards kindling. But if you're coppicing or harvesting your logs at a smaller diameter, I suppose this would allow you to stack whole cut rounds indoors, without having to split them first.

But maybe I'm wrong. Did you ever get the larger version, Paul? And how do you use it? What size, dimension, and quantity of wood do you split?

-CK
 
paul wheaton
author and steward
Posts: 51883
Location: missoula, montana (zone 4)
hugelkultur trees chicken wofati bee woodworking
  • Likes 3
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
The link is for the larger version.  And now that we have the larger version, the original seems silly.

Yes, wood must be in a size that will fit in the ring.  So, that's gonna be maul action.

But we have put some knotty stuff through the kindling cracker.   Far safer than anything else I've used.

All I am saying is that it has become a favorite tool here.
 
pollinator
Posts: 217
Location: Western central Illinois, Zone 6a
121
3
hunting trees solar wood heat rocket stoves ungarbage
  • Likes 2
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
I think I'm going to get or make one of those. Splitting down wood to RMH size with an axe or hatchet gets tiresome when I'm the only one doing it, and this is something I would feel much better having my wife or children use. I can split to "regular" firewood size with the axe and stack it for drying. Anyone in my family can use this to bring it down to size to feed the heater. I like it.
 
paul wheaton
author and steward
Posts: 51883
Location: missoula, montana (zone 4)
hugelkultur trees chicken wofati bee woodworking
  • Likes 1
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator

Caleb Mayfield wrote:I think I'm going to get or make one of those. Splitting down wood to RMH size with an axe or hatchet gets tiresome when I'm the only one doing it, and this is something I would feel much better having my wife or children use. I can split to "regular" firewood size with the axe and stack it for drying. Anyone in my family can use this to bring it down to size to feed the heater. I like it.



https://permies.com/wiki/112272/PEP-BB-metalworking-sand-kindling

 
Caleb Mayfield
pollinator
Posts: 217
Location: Western central Illinois, Zone 6a
121
3
hunting trees solar wood heat rocket stoves ungarbage
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator

paul wheaton wrote:

Caleb Mayfield wrote:I think I'm going to get or make one of those. Splitting down wood to RMH size with an axe or hatchet gets tiresome when I'm the only one doing it, and this is something I would feel much better having my wife or children use. I can split to "regular" firewood size with the axe and stack it for drying. Anyone in my family can use this to bring it down to size to feed the heater. I like it.



https://permies.com/wiki/112272/PEP-BB-metalworking-sand-kindling



The Blacksmith in me says this can be forged from a single piece of metal. And now I have another project on my list. And now I have two versions floating in my head. Now look what you've done Paul. HA!
 
Posts: 195
Location: Southwest Washington 98612
40
2
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
I split short sections of cut limbs for my very small pot-belly stove. Using and axe or maul is tricky, and overkill. I wonder if any of you have used something like this: Or do you have other ideas? Thank you
 
Posts: 20
4
2
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
As a 65-year-old female with very little upper body strength, I have found that the easiest way to split wood is simply put the log/s in a tire or smaller containing thing to keep them from falling over, and then choke up on the ax handle, so you get the benefit of the weight of the blade/head without struggling to lift it high enough.  I have even used a metal lift-the-dog's-bowl-off-the-floor to hold the wood, putting a log inside where the dog's bowl would go.

 
She laughed at how small it was, and now it is even smaller. Poor tiny ad:
A rocket mass heater is the most sustainable way to heat a conventional home
http://woodheat.net
reply
    Bookmark Topic Watch Topic
  • New Topic