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PEP Badge: Oddball

BB oddball - sand badge
 
Posts: 79
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This is some heat duct I replaced and installed.  
 I needed to run heat duct to two bedrooms.  Added an 8inch T out of the furnace and ran 8inch up through the ceiling to another 8inch T.  For bedroom #1 I reduced it down to a 6inch duct to a vent I added in the baseboard.  For bedroom #2 I reduced it to a 6inch then to a 4inch flex duct that I could run under the joists to a vent I added in the floor.
 In my kitchen the old register needed replacing.  I removed the old 8x10 register and 8inch duct from the basement and replaced it with an insulated 8inch flex duct.  The new replacement register was 10x10 that I made into the 8x10 that I needed.  
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The parts
The parts
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T from the furnace
T from the furnace
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Through the ceiling
Through the ceiling
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Upper T
Upper T
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To bedroom #1
To bedroom #1
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Opening the baseboard
Opening the baseboard
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Bedroom #1 Finished
Bedroom #1 Finished
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To Bedroom #2
To Bedroom #2
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Opening Bedroom #2
Opening Bedroom #2
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Bedroom #2 Finished
Bedroom #2 Finished
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Old Kitchen duct
Old Kitchen duct
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Old kitchen register
Old kitchen register
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New kitchen duct
New kitchen duct
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New 10x10 register
New 10x10 register
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New made 8x10 installed
New made 8x10 installed
Staff note (gir bot) :

Kyle Knight approved this submission.

Staff note (gir bot) :

Someone approved this submission.
Note: Certified for 5 points

 
Jesse Lane
Posts: 79
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I had to tile a bathroom floor.  
The depth of the floor was 1.5 inches deep so I used Portland cement and concrete sand to raise it .75 inch. After it dried I laid the tile using thin set in a herring bone pattern.  Later I pointed it with type-s cement to match the other room as opposed to doing typical tile grouting.
The cement is still green in the finished picture.
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The start
The start
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The tile
The tile
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Screeding the Portland
Screeding the Portland
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Tiling
Tiling
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More tiling
More tiling
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The tile is laid
The tile is laid
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Pointing/Grouting
Pointing/Grouting
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Striking the joints
Striking the joints
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Finished
Finished
Staff note (gir bot) :

Kyle Knight approved this submission.

 
Posts: 69
Location: Central Ohio
17
kids rabbit urban food preservation medical herbs homestead
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I crocheted a disguise for my porch goose. If Otis or Otessa is from anywhere around the Ohio Valley they understand the cultural significance of dressed porch geese.
Seriously though, if this doesn't qualify I understand but I felt like it bridges some aspects of textiles (creating custom fit clothing from natural materials) and community (artwork/decoration for the neighborhood, cultural trends). It certainly feels "odd" just not sure if ball. I'd only ask for 0.5 point here given the piano factor, its more about the skills involved creating a woven piece of "art" or clothing.

This took me about 8 hours of crocheting with six colors of yarn.
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Beginning of the body of the suit
Beginning of the body of the suit
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Starting to take a fowl shape
Starting to take a fowl shape
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Wings complete, waiting to be sewn on, tail in progress, waddle attached
Wings complete, waiting to be sewn on, tail in progress, waddle attached
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Completed pieces waiting for sewing
Completed pieces waiting for sewing
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Finished fitting
Finished fitting
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Ta-da! She's a turkey
Ta-da! She's a turkey
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Finished outfit
Finished outfit
Staff note (gir bot) :

Someone approved this submission.
Note: I certify this badge bit complete and award 1 point.

 
pollinator
Posts: 331
177
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(This is my first oddball submission so I hope I've provided all the necessary details)

I've been wanting to make a fabric haybox for a long time. This should be very helpful for decoctions and dyebaths, yogurt making, and of course slow-cooking food.

Nothing new to make this apart from the thread.  The canvas is a cotton remnant from my mom's donated stash. All the filling is tiny unusable scraps of natural fabrics (mostly cotton, with some wool and linen). Loops are the only synthetic bits (upcycled lanyard).

Fully self-drafted to fit my medium sized pot in which we cook beans and grains.

The most time consuming part was sorting through piles of fabric scraps to identify and rip/cut up truly unsalvageable textile (and I do free quilting, so in order to qualify as "unsalvageable", a piece must really be minuscule or worn thin).  I estimate that 3 pounds of fiber that would otherwise have gone to a landfill were used. There's a reason textiles are so hard to recycle!

I've measured the temperature, and it can keep a liter of water in the "safe food zone" (above 60oC) for at least two hours (starting from boiling).

And it passes the "very cool" test from my teenagers.

Took about two and a half hours of work in many 10 minute increments

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Fabric remnant
Fabric remnant
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Upcycled lanyard bits
Upcycled lanyard bits
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Base shape
Base shape
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One of many piles of fabric scraps
One of many piles of fabric scraps
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Starting to fill and sew baffles
Starting to fill and sew baffles
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Fully constructed and testing for temperature
Fully constructed and testing for temperature
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With lid off, and pot nicely nestled in
With lid off, and pot nicely nestled in
Staff note (gir bot) :

Someone approved this submission.
Note: I certify this badge bit complete and award 2 points.

 
gardener
Posts: 415
Location: 6a; BSk; Suburbia; 0.35 acres
176
5
kids forest garden foraging bike medical herbs rocket stoves
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I have been working on a project that stacks functions:

1) I have been having a hard time gardening because of the number of vermin. After 2 summers at this house, located on the Wildlife-Urban interface, I have struggled to keep new sprouts from being eaten. I feel like my efforts to be a gardener have merely been transferred to feeding the vermin. Even my mint, alliums, and horseradish get eaten!!! I need a far better solution than trapping.

2) My kids yearn for a pet but I am definitely not interested in having an indoor pet. I just don't feel like an animal lives it's best life trapped indoors; I feel the same goes for us, humans. I'd like to facilitate teaching my kids the importance of having a routine and a responsibility to another living being. I observe how they interact with animals and I think they're ready for a pet.

3) I sometimes have butchering scraps that I'd prefer to give to an animal rather than bury.

After spending time at Wheaton Labs and taking notes of how the boots manage the cats on property plus the successful hunts that the cats there have, I made plans to replicate this system at my house.

This BB submission is for an insulated, outdoor cat house.

I used a combination of hard and soft wood scraps that I already had available to me. I also completed the fire rack with forethought that I would mount the cat house on top. You'll notice that the fire rack overhangs, intentionally. I will be taking temperature measurements of the interior of the cat house. If the cat house doesn't stay warm enough in the winter then the location of the cat house enables me to make a 6in hole through the stucco exterior wall that would lead to top shelf of my laundry room where I could then mount an indoor cat house. For now, this additional step may not be necessary.

I used wool tanning scraps that my friend gave me to staple into the interior of the cat house.

I mounted the cat house on top of the fire rack to give the cat protection from wildlife.

Now, I just need an outdoor cat =)
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Staff note (gir bot) :

Someone approved this submission.
Note: Great job! Certified for 1 Oddball point. Please next time note the amount of time it took you to do the project (specific to Oddball BBs).

 
gardener
Posts: 1322
741
8
hugelkultur monies foraging trees composting toilet cooking bike solar wood heat rocket stoves ungarbage
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So I've got a RMH.  It needs annual cleaning.  The most challenging part of that cleaning for me has been the heat exchange pipes going through the mass.  I have 3 clean out ports for this task, but still it's a challenge, esp. on the last segment where I've got a turn and tight working conditions.  I started thinking what I need is a new tool to help me with this, essentially a ball or plug of some sort that I can pull through to sweep the fly ash along in front of it to where I can more easily access it with the shop vac.  Seems like something I can make.

I went to the craft store looking for something about the right size and happened to notice a yarn "log".  This formed the basis.  I needed a way to securely pull it from both directions.  The last thing I want is for an attached cord to pull off when it's in the middle of the pipe leaving it stuck where I can't reach it.  I utilized a couple copper disks, drilled some holes in them and then fed two thick copper wires through the yarn log and disks, coiling the wire around at each end to both give me anchor points for the ropes and also secure the copper disks that will be too large to be pulled through the yarn logs.  Hopefully this makes sense.  In order to better secure the yarn from unraveling and compact it down to the right size for my pipes I busted out the handy man's secret weapon, duct tape.  Hey I'm working on a tool for ducts right?

I used a fish rod to feed the rope through and then pulled the sweep plug through.  It took a bit of trial and error to get the right amount of compaction with the tape for the whole thing to fit properly, but it worked quite well.  Still a messy job, but it was easier to clean out the ducts with this.

Time wise, this was pretty easy to make.  I'd say a half hour at most.  It may even be considered too insignificant to qualify for any points, but I wanted to share it anyway as others here might want to consider making such a thing for their RMHs.

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The two copper disks with holes drilled in and my spool of thick gauge copper wire.
The two copper disks with holes drilled in and my spool of thick gauge copper wire.
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The "clean" yarn log, parts, cutters, and forming pliers used.
The "clean" yarn log, parts, cutters, and forming pliers used.
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The tool with the duct tape wrapped around the middle and ropes attached to each end.
The tool with the duct tape wrapped around the middle and ropes attached to each end.
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A photo to better show one of the ends.
A photo to better show one of the ends.
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Fuzzy photo of the tool in action. It was pulled through the pipe sweeping a bunch of ash in front of it as it went.
Fuzzy photo of the tool in action. It was pulled through the pipe sweeping a bunch of ash in front of it as it went.
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A photo showing the tool after use. You can see how I had to use more duct tape to compress it down more to better fit the pipe. It's much dirtier now, thus the bag to store it.
A photo showing the tool after use. You can see how I had to use more duct tape to compress it down more to better fit the pipe. It's much dirtier now, thus the bag to store it.
Staff note (gir bot) :

Someone approved this submission.
Note: Certified for 1/2 point

 
David Huang
gardener
Posts: 1322
741
8
hugelkultur monies foraging trees composting toilet cooking bike solar wood heat rocket stoves ungarbage
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I use my bike a lot.  I like to make this functional use not just recreation.  Having a decent trailer I can hook up to my bike would be handy at times.  I had an old kids trailer I found at a yard sale decades ago, but it needed to be renovated for my use, plus I needed to fashion a way to hook it up to my bike.  This oddball bb submission is about that process.

In searching through my scrap parts I found a large heavy duty hasp and some old casters.  I used these to make the connecting hitch for the bike.  Initially I thought it might be handy to have the hinge part of the hasp still functional but after a recent run with a heavy load of logs I discovered that wasn't the best idea.  So I adjusted things to secure that down such that it can't pivot on that hinge section anymore and it works much better.

I took off all the fabric parts and fashioned a bottom board to the trailer.  I did paint the frame black to better match my bike, but can see that was a waste of time as it's rapidly being scratched off with use.  

The trailer was quite old and the tires it had were cracking with age and needed to be replaced.  I opted to do this with solid rubber tires so I won't need to ever worry about getting a flat on the trailer while carrying a load.  Since it's not intended to haul kids around I'm not too concerned that the ride in the trailer won't be as smooth with solid tires.  

If I deduct the time I spent farting around with things that didn't work, and figuring out how to go about this I probably only spent a couple hours on the project.
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The initial state of the trailer I was restoring.
The initial state of the trailer I was restoring.
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Breaking down the trailer to remove all the fabric and get a better sense of what I'm working with..
Breaking down the trailer to remove all the fabric and get a better sense of what I'm working with..
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The parts to make the connecting hitch for the bike. I'm measuring out where I need to drill holes.
The parts to make the connecting hitch for the bike. I'm measuring out where I need to drill holes.
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Drilling those holes.
Drilling those holes.
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The hitch on the bike with the trailer arm attached.
The hitch on the bike with the trailer arm attached.
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A photo that better shows the trailer attached.
A photo that better shows the trailer attached.
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The swivel around the attaching pin allows for a good wide range of pivot.
The swivel around the attaching pin allows for a good wide range of pivot.
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Painting the parts black.
Painting the parts black.
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Attaching the bottom board.
Attaching the bottom board.
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Close up photo to better show how it was attached.
Close up photo to better show how it was attached.
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Photo of the bike and trailer together.
Photo of the bike and trailer together.
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Removed the first of the old tires.
Removed the first of the old tires.
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Putting on a solid rubber tire is a bit different. First anchoring it with reusable zip strips.
Putting on a solid rubber tire is a bit different. First anchoring it with reusable zip strips.
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Then with screwdrivers to use as levers and more zip strips to hold progress I got it fully on.
Then with screwdrivers to use as levers and more zip strips to hold progress I got it fully on.
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Here is the trailer with both new solid rubber tires installed.
Here is the trailer with both new solid rubber tires installed.
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Photo to show the final adjustment to the hitch. The hasp was folded fully back and the screws now go through both plates so it holds rigid.
Photo to show the final adjustment to the hitch. The hasp was folded fully back and the screws now go through both plates so it holds rigid.
Staff note (gir bot) :

Someone approved this submission.
Note: Certified for 1 point

 
Jesse Lane
Posts: 79
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Jesse Lane wrote: I had to tile a bathroom floor.  
The depth of the floor was 1.5 inches deep so I used Portland cement and concrete sand to raise it .75 inch. After it dried I laid the tile using thin set in a herring bone pattern.  Later I pointed it with type-s cement to match the other room as opposed to doing typical tile grouting.
The cement is still green in the finished picture.



It took me 16 hours over three days to complete.
The above post was accepted but no points were given.  Was it because I failed to post the time it took?
Staff note (gir bot) :

Someone approved this submission.
Note: Nope, just a newer certifier.  Certified for 3 oddball points

 
David Huang
gardener
Posts: 1322
741
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hugelkultur monies foraging trees composting toilet cooking bike solar wood heat rocket stoves ungarbage
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It feels like this should already be a BB, likely in the foraging badge, but I don't see it, so I'm submitting this for consideration here as an Oddball.

Wild edible foods are great!  They take care of themselves, are generally very nutrient dense, and naturally find their place in polycultures.  You just have to go and harvest them at the right time...

... actually there can be a bit more involved.  Nutrient dense foods are commonly found in the wild.  However, calorie dense ones are more rare.  Lots of critters want these calorie dense foods too so they often have stronger layers of protection.  Nuts are a fine example of this.  Some nuts are worse than others.  There is already a BB for gathering hickory nuts.  However, my personal experience indicates this is the easiest part by far of actually having an edible food from them.  The real work is in shelling them to separate out the delicious, nutritious, and calorie dense nut meats.  Hickory nuts are like black walnuts in that the nut meat is interlocked in the shell, rarely coming out cleanly and easily.  The shell is also quite hard, dense, and resistant to cracking.

I've been gathering and shelling hickory nuts for a while now, but only just recently thought to submit the process as an oddball BB.  Previously I had done an oddball metalworking BB about the little contraption I made to initially crack the hard shells without making a huge mess, along with making a couple nutpicks specifically sized for hickory nuts.  

For this BB I'm doing the actual nut processing, starting with the uncracked nuts.  So I got out my tool and a hammer to do the initial shell cracking.  These all then go into a bowl for the real work of processing, that of pulling them open and getting  out the nut meats, hopefully without any shell fragments.  I really hate eating nuts and suddenly biting down on a shell bit so I take great care when doing this to separate them out.  I've found a massively useful tool for this is a good pair of wire cutters.  These let me get into tight spots on the shell to snip and crack away sections, opening up better access to the nut meat.  I probably use them more than I do the nut picks to be honest.

The batch of shagbark hickory nuts you see in the photos below took me roughly 3 hours to process, resulting in just over 1 cup of nutmeat.  If there is a faster way to do it I have yet to read about it.  That is if you really want the nutmeats.  I realize one could also just mash them all into a paste, shells and all, then mix with water, simmer, and let it settle to get a nut milk which extracts some of the calories and nutrients with much less time involved.  However, I like eating the actual nuts.  They are very tasty, just very labor intensive to get.  I don't believe anyone has developed a commercial way to process shagbark hickory nuts either.  The interlocking shells means it pretty much needs to be done by hand.  So if anyone ever offers to share their shelled hickory nuts with you, realize they are offering you a true gift of goodness and labor!
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The starting point, my nuts and the nutcracking device.
The starting point, my nuts and the nutcracking device.
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In this shot I have done the initial shell cracking. Now I've got the wire cutters and nut picks to start opening them up and separating out the nutmeat.
In this shot I have done the initial shell cracking. Now I've got the wire cutters and nut picks to start opening them up and separating out the nutmeat.
DSC07275.JPG
Partway through the process. The large bowl has the shell fragments, which I end up burning in my RMH. The smallest bowl has the nutmeats.
Partway through the process. The large bowl has the shell fragments, which I end up burning in my RMH. The smallest bowl has the nutmeats.
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This is what 3 hours of work results in, roughly 1 cup of hickory nutmeats. Delicious!
This is what 3 hours of work results in, roughly 1 cup of hickory nutmeats. Delicious!
Staff note (gir bot) :

Someone approved this submission.
Note: I certify for 1/2 point, not for lack of real effort and ingenuity, but based on the "pro factor" here, which is steep. A hand-crank nutcracker like this: https://nuttechnology.com/production/equipment/home-equipment-nutcrackers advertises 15 kg/hr. No idea if it extracts as efficiently, though, so kudos remain for the OP!

 
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Switching from electric heat to a rocket mass heater reduces your carbon footprint as much as parking 7 cars
http://woodheat.net
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