Paul Ellsworth wrote:Thought I would share an interesting "square foot" garden experiment I did a few years ago, in which i smashed up an anount of burn char and put it one part of the beds and smashed up bagged charcoal in another, then turned both into rhe soil (which is excessively clayish to begin with. Sorta thought "meh" that year.... Skip forward a couple years of no gardenor even much useful composting or mulching/other soil improvers. Then restarted gardening post chemo and early recovery, and the what came next doggone surprised me... Those two areas continue to be rhe best in this particular garden
That said, I may be relocating this spring, and if so I plan to do even more experiments with a combination of this trick, trenching in some.straw bales, etc. Thoughts?
Phil Stevens wrote:William - I'm now using biochar at 25% (and sometimes even higher) in my potting mixes. It's been a game changer. I don't have to water as often, and seedlings get established more quickly. I don't have any wicking planters set up, so I can't give you any data points on that method, but I suspect that it would work.
echo minarosa wrote:
I'm having trouble finding anything near the quantity of biochar I could use. Well, to be more specific, I can't make it in my county due to local fire ordinance and I can't pay the huge transport costs for purchased char. None of the local places catering to garden inputs have it. One does have bone char but I'm avoiding that.
Greg Martin wrote:
John Suavecito wrote:Denise, there are many other threads in this forum on those topics.
Advice on Crushing Biochar
Denise Cares wrote:There's some very ingenious methods being used to crush biochar! Another question I have that I didn't see mentioned before is whether it's good to use softwood for making charcoal - pine and cedar? It seems that those woods don't leave behind much solid material for crushing when burned in my woodstove. Maybe hardwood is considered essential?