Does the fabric I'm looking for exist?

Help, Permies people! Here is my dilemma:

I’ve always hated shopping for things like clothes, but lately, I’ve been getting angry, too. I don’t like the way the fashion game is played. It seems every loose strand plucked at reveals a new toxin or evil, all so people can look good. So, I’m out.

But what, then, to wear, beyond rags as my old clothes deteriorate? Now, I’m quite stubborn and determined to win this stand-off, and luckily for me, on the homestead nobody cares. But I also have to work in society, albeit out-of-doors, and my business partner is starting to eye my work outfits askance- if they aren’t sagging in defeat, they are ripped or stained. Or more likely, all three.

I don’t know how to sew beyond simple repairs like hemming or fixing buttons, but it doesn’t seem that manufacturers out there fit my particular bill, so down the do-it-myself rabbit hole I go.

I’m looking for help with two things:  Tips on any gently-used clothing sellers or bulk fabric manufacturers that sell who specialize in fabrics that are:

- US based, from start to finish
- Ethically, sustainably and naturally sourced
- Toxin-free in both final product and process

And number two, for those illustrious few of you lucky enough to work with such textiles, what fabric types might I be describing here?

- High performance for outdoor use (my job is 8-12 hours in a varied mountain climate:Spring, Summer & Fall)
- Provides both protection from heat and sun, brambles and insects.
- Quick-dry (as I am often partly immersed in water), and neither clingy (bugs will bite through) nor easily snagged (brambles!)


Does what I am looking for, exist?

Linen makes a great next-to-the-skin layer for wicking sweat and body odors. 100% wool is semi-water repellant. Cotton is cheap and, while not as great as linen, makes a good loose layer for keeping cool in the summer. I don't know how to source any of this locally unless you're making it yourself, but that doesn't appear to be your goal. Just looking for 100% natural fabrics when you shop will move your needle in the right direction. I know it's frustrating wanting to find a product that is 100% in line with your philosophy, but making better and better choices helps too.

You can also check out the Textiles PEP badge to build up your mending skills: https://permies.com/wiki/101129/pep-textiles/PEP-Badge-Textiles. A lot of it centers around mending what you have.

Yes, this fabric exists! Tanned hides and leather..

I feel there are sustainable clothing manufacturers.

There are manufacturers who make clothing out of natural fabrics that are ecologically and socially responsible.

When I was working and needed to maintain a certain style I would shop the thrift stores in the better parts of town or ones that were sponsored by an organization.

I now just shop in my closet.

I also just like to wear skirts and t-shirts.

T-shirts can be bought that are 100% cotton though I am not sure those manufacturers are sustainable.

If I wanted to find a sustainable clothing manufacturer I would ask my friends who also want the same kind of clothing.

Since I don't really shop for clothes I don't know the brand names of those manufacturers.

Seems there would be folks on the forum that know.

This thread from the similar Threads below might offer some information:

https://permies.com/t/151232/ungarbage/Sustainably-sources-work-clothes

Rio Rose wrote:
- High performance for outdoor use (my job is 8-12 hours in a varied mountain climate:Spring, Summer & Fall)
- Provides both protection from heat and sun, brambles and insects.
- Quick-dry (as I am often partly immersed in water), and neither clingy (bugs will bite through) nor easily snagged (brambles!)

Buckskin (naturally tanned, not some chromium-tanned abomination) seems to fit the bill, for the two last points at least. You'd need to get something from another material to protect you against the rain. As for getting buckskin... I have no idea, unless you have the time and interest to make it yourself. But there's got to be people who sell it, no?

I agree that a naturally tanned leather product would be your best bet at preventing snags, and covering other requirements in your list. I think  these clothing items might be a bit pricey to invest in, but the investment would likely be worth it as the item would be able to serve it's purpose for many years.  But cool in the summer? Not.

I have looked at prices for clothing that fits this bill, all natural, locally made, etc. and they aren't as cheap as what is available en masse. It's BECAUSE of the specifics of things like local and organic that raise the price.  "Specialty" clothing isn't inexpensive but it does exist.

Have you tried thrift stores? The shopping process takes more time in these, but you can find wonderful rewards. Often "on the cheap" as it were.

Shy of growing your own, spinning the threads or yarn, butchering the animal you raised and tanning yourself, then making the garments needed, I'm not sure there is an easier way to find them, and being sure they fit. However, I'm finding that 100% wool can be warm or cool. Linen and silk wick moisture away from the skin.

I hope you will keep us apprised of the rest of this story as you journey along it!

Thank you all for the replies. It sounds like buckskin or thrift stores are the predominant Permie solution to my dilemma.

Alas! While I will explore the powers of buckskin more in future for the more brambly or bug-infested spots, I doubt the constant wetting and drying would make for a comfortable material (stiff once dry?).  I also feel like it would rip far more easily (lose structural integrity) if going from wet to dry to wet to dry many times in a single use. And as one poster mentioned, it's hard to believe it would be a comfortable material in blazing heat. Please correct me if you think I am off.

Thrift stores....are wonderful and certainly save me from the horror of the shiny and new, but it's mostly the same garbage I'm trying to get away from. Even second hand shopping puts a snarl on my face.

Those of you who suggested wool, silk, linen and cotton, (or hemp???) that's probably where I'm headed, to try and source assorted materials/blends in bulk from folks who make it sustainably...and then learn to sew it, and see how it performs for my needs. Whelp! If anyone knows these sort of folks, please speak up.

Something tells me my work partner might not want to be seen with me for the next year or so. Mirrors...would also help me not appear such a ragamuffin. But I'm not buying one!!! Thanks again from indulging me, things are going to get weird....☺️

Rio Rose wrote:While I will explore the powers of buckskin more in future for the more brambly or bug-infested spots, I doubt the constant wetting and drying would make for a comfortable material (stiff once dry?).  I also feel like it would rip far more easily (lose structural integrity) if going from wet to dry to wet to dry many times in a single use. And as one poster mentioned, it's hard to believe it would be a comfortable material in blazing heat. Please correct me if you think I am off.

I'm far from being an expert, but I did make buckskin once, and I've read a bit about it. From what I understand, properly made buckskin is breathable (so should be fairly comfy in hot weather), stays supple when drying after having been wet, and is strong whether wet or dry. I even heard someone claim that you can wash it in the washing machine at 40 degrees C (which should probably not be attempted with any other leather-type material). The main drawback seems to be that it's not even a little bit waterproof. But a material that's breathable and waterproof probably can't be found outside the realm of heavily engineered, toxic gick (or perhaps the realm of magic).

I'm far from being an expert, but I did make buckskin once, and I've read a bit about it. From what I understand, properly made buckskin is breathable (so should be fairly comfy in hot weather), stays supple when drying after having been wet, and is strong whether wet or dry. I even heard someone claim that you can wash it in the washing machine at 40 degrees C (which should probably not be attempted with any other leather-type material). The main drawback seems to be that it's not even a little bit waterproof. But a material that's breathable and waterproof probably can't be found outside the realm of heavily engineered, toxic gick (or perhaps the realm of magic).

Thank you Eino! Sounds like I do need some properly made buckskin in my life, at the very least to see for myself. I'll be on the lookout. The only material I can think of that is both breathable and waterproof is living skin, so perhaps the right buckskin will behave better than I imagine with wet. I don't believe I've ever handled naturally tanned buckskin.

As far as truly waterproof goes, I've been wearing Gore-Tex for decades. it works amazingly well, thanks to toxic PFA's. I've spent most of my adult life in and around water, it hurts to think I've been letting poisons leach into our precious resources for so long.

All that said, it sounds like a material that checks all my boxes, does not in fact exist (yet!) except, as you say, in the realm of magic..or maybe fungi? I'll keep seeking.

Do you have a local flea-market/swap-meet in your area?  I've been buying all my clothes at local flea markets for years now, a lot for just one dollar.  Lots of times what I see are new clothes that got bumped out of the retail chain for some reason.  Maybe a popped off button, or the size marked incorrectly.  Once in a while a stain.

Recently I got a waist-length winter wool jacket, that had some kind of stain on it.  Label stated "Dry Clean Only".  Asked the wife to work her wool-magic on it.  I would destroy anything made of wool.  She washed it in Woolite, hung it to air dry, and gave it a final dryer tumble on "no heat".  Came out looking brand-new, and I only paid 3$ for it.

So, look for other venues besides the retail one to get your clothes.

Is there a retailer or designer that you like the look of? Getting closer to your comfort zone style wise and the situations you might be anticipating dressing for might help with suggestions. Even if it's an "I like this except.." situation.

I buy most of my comfy clothes and work (I work carpentry) tees from Spiritex.  Everything they sell is organic cotton grown and sewn in the USA.  Their medium weight jersey wears well, the lightweight, not so much.  I have never worn a hoodie that is as comfortable or heavy as theirs.  Prices are reasonable for the organic clothing market and can be a steal if you shop their clearance page.  These clothes last.

I turn to Origin USA for my jeans.  They are veteran owned, grown and sewn in US, but not organic.  Very impressive jeans,  I wear them pretty hard (carpentry) and have only had to patch one hole worn in the knee of the lighter weight denim in their lifetime.  The carpenter jeans are a heavier denim and hard to damage.  They are a bit pricey, but I don't intend to buy another pair of jeans as long as these are patchable.

Underpants, who needs 'em! Haha!  But, I like BAD organics for hemp/cotton blend underwear, they are $80 ish for a three pack, but they hold up well, $200 would keep your nethers comfy and safe for a couple hard wearing years.

Rawganique is also an option, they are very clean, very sustainable organic fibers, but they come at a cost and I am not familiar with how they wear.

I buy my clothes at thrift stores, Just take your time and examine every piece. I get compliments all the time for what I am wearing when I go to town. I have two conventional looking outfits I wear when I need to go to town but when I am at home I have 'graduated to long dresses. Short or no sleeves for summer and then I put long sleeved T's and sweat pants/ski pants under them for winter. I work outside in these dresses and yes sometimes the skirts are an issue but mostly they are not.

It gets fairly cold for me here and I am going to make a couple of fleece slips to go under the dresses for next year. I've been thinking about the construction of them and am excited because I will essentially have a 'blanket' under my dress! The top part will be sleeveless like a t-shirt and then all the way down to the hem it will widen out in a bell shape. I've been considering taking out the side stitching half way up my calf of a few of my dresses to allow for the full skirted slip. If they are not warm enough, I can add ruffles for an extra layer. I'd decided I didn't want sleeves on these slips because I want the ability to 'peel off' if I get too hot, so layers of short jackets, sweaters on top of the dress will be good for that. In the summer, the dresses are without all this fuss and are light and breezy. I'm also going to put some pockets on a couple of them, they sure do come in handy.


Another trick I discovered to make a wonderful outfit was to find a short dress that I liked and layer it over a long skirt. I did that for a formal dinner and no one knew it was what it really was... In my case the skirt was very full, one of those from back when it was popular to wear wrinkled things right out of your suitcase. It was solid black and I found a dress that was straight up and down but had all kinds of colors in it and a pleasing design.

I know you said you don't sew, but it might be possible to barter with someone who does. Choose something you are good at and offer that for sewing.

Where I live the thrift stores have been crap for a long time. I suspect they are full of walmart leftovers. The only thing I have found there recently are dress up clothes and that is not what I want. I am looking for casual clothing. Clothing made with good solid materials that dont disintegrate. At this point I am looking for a bolt of good fabric and a seamstress to sew me some simple pants and skirts.
I am finding that modern clothing is designed mostly for large people which I am not. A lot of the thrift store clothes smell like fragrance and I cannot tolerate it. Clothing was once made to fit and to flatter. Today it is made to hide the extra weight people carry with no thought to fit or to flatter. I miss the elegance of clothing from the old days. I dont want shirts that expand at the waistline. I dont want anymore skirts bought online that will disintegrate after 4 washings. And then there is socks. Where does one find socks that dont strangle the ankles? I am very thin and have bought larger sizes so that doesnt happen and they all seem to get very tight at the ankles. I am talking wool and cotton socks. There are none that I can find that fit me. What do people with big legs or ankles do? I am very thin and tallish. I have skinny legs and ankles.
Underwear has been an ongoing search this year. I have bought them 3 or 4 times and washed them and they are now in the give away pile. They dont fit or they are some kind of new weird fabric that irritates the skin! Even when they say they are cotton it is obvious they are more than!
There might be expensive options that would work but I cannot find them either.
I do have a tub of old clothing that I wont get rid of because when all else fails there will be some interesting old pieces in there that will cover me when nothing else works.

If you haven't already, check out Land to Market - https://www.landtomarket.com/ - materials are verified to come from regenerative agriculture.  There is some leather and wool goods at least.

You may want to consider reaching out to a nearby First Nation (not sure what they're called now in the US) - these people lived on the land long before modern fabrics existed.  There may be local craftspeople making fairly traditional outfits and, if not, they may be able to point you in the direction you want to go.

I've been wearing Icebreaker Merino wool clothes for a few years now and absolutely love everything. I'm slowly phasing out as much of my cotton as possible.  Icebreaker has a sustainability statement on their website.

I'm looking into Wool & Prince Merino clothing as well, but haven't purchased anything from them yet.  They have a 100-day challenge which will pay for your first shirt if you wear it for 100 days straight.  Very cool... and sometimes warm as well.

Try https://originmaine.com/  usa made gi, jeans, boots and more.  They could not find the heavy cloth they needed for the gi so they bought a loom and started making their own.  Tom

while we are on this subject, I want to know if there is a specific wool that won't, when worn next to my skin, cause me to itch. I am fair, which may be part of the issue but how do all those who wear wool every single day and it's touching their skin, do it?
Boy o boy I would love to be able to incorporate wool into my wardrobe.

Rosemary. the softest wool is called Merino.

I can't guarantee that it will not itch as some folks might be extra sensitive.

Wool is pretty much the same content and structure as human hair and very few people are actually allergic to the wool itself.  

But, like my hair, if I get it cut, the ends get very itchy and can even cause a rash.  To remove the wool from the sheep, we cut it off.  Depending on how fine the fibre is, we can get some really itchy ends, or it can be softer than silk.

I say it's like hair, but actually the grease and sweat a sheep produces coats the wool and some people can be allergic to these if they aren't cleaned off fully.

And then we get to the manufacturing side as most industrial-scale wool production uses strong chemicals to clean the wool, then the dyes, then the carding oils, the sizing, some countries add fire retardant to wool clothing.  It's a mess.  But even that mess is better than a lot of other industrial fibres... but these can still cause allergic reactions or feel scratchy.

The best way to find out is to wear it and see how you react.  If that make doesn't work, perhaps a different brand.

Traditionally in Europe, wool wouldn't be worn next to the skin (except maybe a hat, and even then it would often be lined).  The layer touching the skin would be linen (or later cotton) as humans shed a lot of skin, oils and other stuff throughout the day and wool was difficult to wash back then but linen was durable under these conditions and easy to wash.  I really love the combination of the two fibres and I find that having a shift or undershirt in linen then the wool on the outside makes a more durable outfit.