Gerry Parent wrote:In regards to your comments to Thomas, all I can say is that I would never want to have my open minded tinkering nature stifled by others opinions.
I would like to say a lot more but probably would end up being a 'cider press' conversation at that point so.... long story short, you have been nothing but an inspiration to myself and I'm sure many others out there and would dread the idea that you were holding yourself back because of some limiting ideas..... therefore, you have my vote on helping you to keep your imagination tickled for as long as possible! GO Peter GO!
Satamax Antone wrote:Gerry, i haven't done it myself. But been thinking about a thing. On my batch, i have a metal plate on top of the firebox, for cooking.
Having a front door, but with that liftable top plate, to be able to reload, would be a nice adition.
I don't know if you're ever lived with a wood, or coal range. With a cast Iron top. But that's about what i'm thinking. You lift the top rings, or rectangular plate, to load the firebox.
Gerry Parent wrote:So Satamax, would you suggest having a top load door be a solid insulated piece and the front be a permanently fixed glass for viewing?
Peter van den Berg wrote:It would be very interesting what would come out of a merger between J-tube and batchrocket technologies, given what is known about those two at this point of time. It could lead to a whole new breed of rocket heaters but although it's tickling my imagination, it won't be me to pick up development.
thomas rubino wrote:Hi Gerry;
How long is the burn time on that bad boy?
How do you light it? Seems, maybe I read something about lighting from the top down?
How do you load it ? Larger wood on bottom and kindling ,paper ? on top? Inquiring minds want to know.
Will you be modifying your floor port tube to Peters style?
I know it might have snowed a skiff up there once or twice ... but you promised us more photos!
Sweeping off a little snow, PERMIES.... or sleeping ??? A no brainer there my friend:) They make boots and snowmobiles ... and sleep is highly overrated.
One must keep his Priority's straight you know!
Even though it's still months, until I can tear one of mine apart. I can't wait to get started, (this is all your doing you know:) So ...
On our next trip to Sandpoint, I'll be buying the square tube and building a floor port to Peters specifications for one of the rocket's.
I'll cut it long and trim it back to length during the build.
After that a trip up to Columbia Falls for some insulated fire bricks...
I'll take photo's and make a post all about floor port construction as I go.
Rune Dahlgreen wrote:
What are the precise numbers of the newest version of the floor channel found on Peter's website? (sorry I haven't found a way to open these sketchup files on ubuntu OS yet)
("01/05/2019 A somewhat simpler construction together with a larger feed part and a higher stub, according to the latest findings.")
Rune Dahlgreen wrote:Now regarding the newest version (since Peter mentions that the the feed/horisontal part is now larger and "The feed is close to twice as large as the stub, csa-wise") is it safe for me to conclude that the horizontal part should be close to 10 % riser CSA and the vertical part of the newest floor channel should stay in the same range, close to 5 % of the riser CSA?
Also back in the days of the P-channel coming down from the 'ceiling' of the fire box Peter emphasized that the width of the P-channel should be as wide or slightly wider than the width of the port. Can we now totally disregard this rule for both the horisontal and vertical part of the newer floor channel?
thomas rubino wrote:Hey Gerry; Nice Job!
Is that apx. 5" to the highest point of the stub or to the high point on the deflector?
Gerry Parent wrote:1) Do you load your entire batch of wood in (to within about 2" to the ceiling) then reach way to the back to light it with a long match? What I found is that its takes a while before the fire catches the wood below it when lit from the top vs starting it at the base of the stub.
Gerry Parent wrote:2) If the door is put on prematurely after lighting from the top back (before lets say 10 minutes) does the fire die down almost to the point of going out?
Peter van den Berg wrote:...I tend to leave a lower level in the middle, where I place a handful of small tinder and light that with a single barbecue lighter. Most of the time 2" from the ceiling isn't enough to reach the back so in practice I light the fire halfway. This method allows for stacking the entire load, as opposed to starting low in front of the port and adding more fuel while the fire grows.
Peter van den Berg wrote:The upside down firing method requires an emphasis on primary air for the first 10 or so minutes of the burn. That's why I leave the firebox door open about half an inch (one finger thick).
Peter van den Berg wrote:Just weld the threshold to the floor channel's feed and don't try to empty all the ashes out when you are at it. I almost never do unless I want to take the floor channel out to have a look at the bottom of the riser.
Gerry Parent wrote:How close can the wood be placed to the stub? Right up to it or best to leave a gap for air flow?
Gerry Parent wrote:Peter, I think I remember reading something about you saying something over at Proboards.com (which I can't find right now) that flames that come out of the riser are not the most ideal situation. If this was you that said this and is a correct statement, could you elaborate on it a bit and what could be done to make it more 'ideal'.