Do you have measurements and basic instructions for some pants I saw a vague picture of today, which seemed to have 2 rectangular "tubes" for the legs, 2 square patches one for the center front and one for the center back, and then an odd shaped gusset like a long diamond, but with the two short corners cut off? It looked to me as if it would use fabric efficiently, such as you commented on for your tunic, but still be sufficiently "fitted" such as the shirt I made, so as to be practical for our current lifestyles.
Glenn Herbert wrote:I do medieval recreation, focusing mainly on 14th century England, and the clothing in the earlier half of that century and before is most all rectangles and triangles.
Thanks Melissa! I don't have instagram, but the key words "zero waste" did get some hits on things I hadn't seen.
Melissa Bee wrote:One book that might be of interest is Elizabeth Haywood's 'Zero Waste Sewing,' which includes a number of projects--mostly women's clothes, but a few unisex garments as well. She's on Instagram as @lizhaywood3754, and posts readers' finished projects, if you want to get an idea of what to expect.
Jay Angler wrote:@r ranson: Do you have a picture of the pattern you used?
Lovely jacket and definitely dressy enough for town!
Jay Angler wrote:I had watched this video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ql9r8UKIvZs - and the pattern was all rectangles. Unfortunately, the instructions were a bit vague in spots, particularly for someone who'd never done period patterns.
For those who may have difficulty reading cursive handwriting, the notes on the diagram are:
-width of fabric IF c. 40-44 in, or roughly double width from shoulder to shoulder
-x1 (x2 if split at shoulder seam)
-this space measures the length between base of neck to tip of shoulder +2-3". All space in between is left for neck hole opening.
-neck slit—usually ~10" on men's shirts but mine is c. 5"
-length from shoulder to mid-thigh
-25" (top of shoulder to wrist, +2")
-4" (to be folded in half)
-circumference of wrist +1 1/2" for ease and closure overlap)
-3 1/2" or—height of neck from base of neck to about 1" under chin
-circumference around base of neck + about 1" for ease
-I ended up cutting these down to 5x5 to fit my armscye
Reinforcement Patches, x5, 1"x1"
-(sorry about the state of this, electronic tablets are real weird, it turns out)
-*pieces not to scale lol
-*seam allowance NOT included
Hope this helps anyone who might need it!
There are different ways of doing seams and they have pros and cons and are dependent on the effect you're looking for and the material you're using.
Nicole Alderman wrote:I also hadn't know quite how BIG to make the seams, especially for felling them. Thank you!
I agree and I did add fabric rather than doing the fine rolled seam.
Inge Leonora-den Ouden wrote:There's a part I miss in that pattern. I think it needs a strip of fabric for the slit under the neck-opening. Maybe they think of simply rolling it in like a very small hem. I would prefer a better finish
S Smithsson wrote:Using that rectangle pattern, for the neck slit you want to offset it just a bit, maybe a couple inches - our necks are not in the middle like this pattern implies, and beginners usually make that mistake when making midieval shirts then you see them tugging at the neck hole all day long. the back should be the shorter distance.
Eleanor Froelich wrote:John Marshall’s ‘Make Your Own Japanese Clothes’ has patterns based on the very narrow strips of cloth that once were common in Japan. I think it is out of print, maybe check your library.
Melissa Bee wrote:One book that might be of interest is Elizabeth Haywood's 'Zero Waste Sewing,' which includes a number of projects--mostly women's clothes, but a few unisex garments as well.
May Lotito wrote:...
Curiousweaver website has free pattern for Japanese field pants or mompei pants, based on narrow woven fabric. https://curiousweaver.id.au/curiousweaverprojects
Liz Haywood also made one pair and shared on her blog:
May Lotito wrote:I...
This is my mompei and I have more in person photos and construction details in my secret minion thread. Feel free to check it out. Happy sewing.
This is why I started by looking for patterns based on rectangles - at least if there was left-over fabric, it wasn't a skinny weird shape that ended up in the trash!
There are fewer true ZW patterns and maybe hard to alter. Practically, I would go for low waste pattern and take measures to minimize waste in cutting.