james beam wrote:Hey Leila, thanks for the nice reply...very interesting to check out your website & pixs.
james beam wrote:
I just threw in that roofing tar thing for fun, yanno there might be some extra roofing tar buckets a person might scavenge from around town, like you said Leila, heck I found nearly 2 gallons of the stuff this year~~I know I'm rich, I just can't seem to lay my hands on it~~ The kreosote (coal oil) thing definitely works: telephone poles & RXR ties have the coal oil smell with a thick black tar impregnated into the wood, I was just going for a homemade smear-on attempt at rot & insect prevention.
I haven't tried the charred end posts yet, but it sounds great too me... except for the extra handling from the post charcoalized processing, and I'm guessing you have to water quench the charred ends to make the burning stop at the proper penetration...sigh, I remind myself how lazy I can be.
james beam wrote:
Leila, your tight fitting post hole idea should work in your dirt, especially if you can get the clay/ash/concrete liquid to completely fill the voids & set well, perhaps put the liquid in the hole first, then nail the post in (isn't that what you said) It is common practice to pour dry sakcrete around the post, tamp, then pour some water on it to make it set. But my example here is rocky, gravelly, and rocky, with no expense of sakcrete, so I have to dig out the hole just bigger than the post, but with room enough to jab a heavy iron rod thru to the bottom of the hole, push in what dirt is found & pack the bottom tight. Push in remainder, jab the rocks and all as tight as possible, tamp the top of the filled hole and on to the next.
Eric Grenier wrote:posts always rot at the surface.
Eric Grenier wrote:Thank you, I'll clarify my question. Can a whoffati be made without digging in the posts? This would eliminate the major problem in this design.
Ty Morrison wrote:Too many subjects, I missed this one.
This is a PROVEN solution that is adopted by the International Building Code for Post-Frame construction in all climates an soils.
Minimum footing frost depth in Missoula is 42 inches: this is to avoid frost heave, which is very real. The hole needs to be bigger than the pole by three inches or more all the way around. The bottom of the hole should be soaked over night with some water, but not a lot. the next day when the water is gone and the dirt isn't sloppy, the bottom of the hole should be compacted with a tamper/pole to where it does not compact the dirt any more (bounces).
NFBA and USDA both indicate a big rock or concrete pad (4 x 8 x 8 solid cmu) be placed in the bottom of the excavation/hole. In the drawing this is below 42 inches just to be safe. Once the pole (no bark) has been set into the hole, crushed gravel (clean, no fines) is placed around the pole. The gravel is placed in lifts of about 4 to 6 inches and a 2x4 tamp is used to compact it into place while the pole is kept in alignment. Place gravel to the top.
DO NOT PUT CONCRETE AROUND THE POLE...it will trap the water and cause rot.
I don't know how 'green' it is but painting the hidden part of the pole liberally with creosote is popular and has worked for railroad ties for a century or more.