You are welcome to check out my blog at http://www.theartisthomestead.com or my artwork at http://www.davidhuang.org
Mark Tudor wrote:One tip I recently read was to make sure the surface is actually comfortable to sit on, which is rarely a flat surface that meets the wall at 90 degrees. Instead they suggest that there be a slight slope down as you go back, about 5 degrees, so your butt is a little lower, and then have the angle from seat to back rest be greater than 90 degrees, more around 100-110 degrees. If you aim for 17" high, test that with a chair to be sure your feet can sit flat on the floor and your legs don't have a gap under them. You also want the bottom of the bench to be several inches further in (closer to the wall) than at the top, so you can scoot your heels in to aid in standing up.
I've really enjoyed watching your progress, mentally building my own vicariously through you!
This too is meaningless. A chasing after the wind.
William LeMieux wrote:Hello all, first time poster and new to permies and RMH's. This was a very informative thread and I just sat down and read the entire thing from start to finish. I've been researching RMH's for a few weeks now and I find that most folks use a 55-gallon barrel for their, manifold is it? Why is that? I would think that brick would be longer lasting than metal. Although the metal would give a more instantaneous heat right off the bat, but with a brick manifold, I would think it would retain heat longer and give it off at a more controlled rate and last longer throughout the day and night. What are the pros and cons of metal verses a brick manifold? Forgive me for high jacking your thread sir, but there seems to be a little lull in the action and in the interim, perhaps someone could set me straight on this query. Thanks, Bill.
This too is meaningless. A chasing after the wind.
William LeMieux wrote:Ok, my bad. Not the manifold but maybe the heat exchanger? I'm new to the lingo so please forgive and bear with me. Whatever it's called, it surrounds the heat riser. I would think that brick could take the super heater air slamming into it better than could a metal barrel, also capturing and retaining the heat instead of immediately radiating it into the room. So I'm curious as to whether the heat riser could be surrounded by brick as opposed to a metal barrel. If there's nothing wrong with doing so I'll start a new thread on the topic. I have many questions.
PS- Thanks for the warm welcome...
This too is meaningless. A chasing after the wind.
William LeMieux wrote:Thanks all for the replies, and to Mr. Hatfield for the links to the podcasts. I listened to the first one and got the answers to my questions (which was echoed by y'all) and was very informative as well. So with all I have to think about before posting more queries, thank you for allowing the diversion. I now return you to the topic in progress.
I eagerly wait for the next portion of your build.
Eric Hammond wrote:
I had to rebuild the wood feed. All of the bricks got really loose and didn't fit well anymore. All the clay deteriorated and fell out. I took it apart and cleaned all the clay out.
I reassembled it with leftover refractory mortar, that if you remember, I used to seal the bottom manifold barrel to the fire brick base (Which DID work perfect for that application)
Looking back now, I wish I would have built the entire thing with refractory mortar, it is expensive, but you really don't need much and it would pretty well glue the whole structure together. I would NOT use clay slip again for mortar.
Silence is Golden
For all your RMH needs:
dragontechrmh.com
The holy trinity of wholesomeness: Fred Rogers - be kind to others; Steve Irwin - be kind to animals; Bob Ross - be kind to yourself
Eric Hammond wrote: It's hard to get the motivation to mix cob when its 30 degrees outside and dark when you get home.
James 1:19-20
Not all those who wander are lost - J. R. R. Tolkien
For all your Montana Masonry Heater parts (also known as) Rocket Mass heater parts.
Visit me at
dragontechrmh.com Once you go brick you will never go back!
Diane Maldonado wrote:I love your pictures!!! Very helpful. My question is if I have an uneven concrete slab and I want to build a base for the RMH, do I still use the silicone to glue the bricks to the floor? Or what type of material do I use to mortar the bricks together?
Diane Maldonado wrote:I love your pictures!!! Very helpful. My question is if I have an uneven concrete slab and I want to build a base for the RMH, do I still use the silicone to glue the bricks to the floor? Or what type of material do I use to mortar the bricks together?
The holy trinity of wholesomeness: Fred Rogers - be kind to others; Steve Irwin - be kind to animals; Bob Ross - be kind to yourself
thomas rubino wrote:Hi Diane;
Welcome to the world of rocket science! I have a few questions about your build.
Do you have a copy of the RMH builders guide ?
Is this rmh going to be in a basement?
Is your uneven concrete slab insulated ? If not or your not sure then the best start might be to put down a level insulated base to build your rmh on.
Are you planning an 8" J tube ? with horizontal mass ? What did you have in mind as your chimney?
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