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Garden box vs just growing in the ground

 
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Why not just dig out an area, mix the existing soil with compost or manure, and put some mulch on the top?
 
steward and tree herder
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Why not? It would work in many cases.

Some reasons to make a box raised bed

- ergonomics (better working height)
- protection from critters
- visual appeal

any others?
 
Steward of piddlers
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For part of my property, I chose raised garden beds due to having a bunch of junk located in the ground of the area. Large rocks, gravel, miscellaneous metal and glass from when a stable existed on site. By having a raised bed, I have better control over the soil characteristics.  
 
Nancy Reading
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Good point Timothy - you can even put a raised bed on concrete if that is all you have in your yard.
 
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I know a lot of people garden in raised beds because of the perception that you can't improve the clay soil around here. And it is very heavy, but it can definitely can be improved by mixing manure or compost into it.  Though I have to admit that that doing so is a lot of work because clay is no fun to dig in and turn over.  It almost seems easier to just build on top of it.

Edit:  I should add that I'm well aware clay can be an amazing growing medium but it just takes SO MUCH organic matter to get it to that point.

I should also add that I keep adding very expensive raised beds because I am far more likely to use them efficiently than if I just  plant in the ground. I think it's almost a mental thing. The define lines make it obvious that I should be using every square foot and not wasting the money that the beds cost.
 
Rusticator
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Some HOAs don't allow anyone to plant in the ground. Not all of us are able to avoid them - thankfully, not an issue, for me.

Accessibility, particularly for the disabled - definitely an issue for me.

Raised beds/ containers offer the opportunity to individualize soil types & watering needs.

Season extension - many of us want plants that aren't compatible with our climate, and containers allow us to move them into the shade/ sun, or indoors, as needed - especially if the container is on wheels, as all my big ones are.

Containers allow people to take advantage of small nooks and a type of 'vertical' growing beyond just trellising.

As Nancy mentioned, critter protection - my containers are all on the deck, both for my easy access and protection from critters that can't or are afraid to get onto our deck.

My daughter is in an apartment, and can *only* plant in containers on her patio. My son is in a small,  strict-ish community, and can't plant in the ground, but can put containers, anywhere he wants.

 
Walter Byrd
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Lots of good information here. Thank you everybody.

A long time ago, I made raised beds by nailing together 5.5 inch wide cedar fence pickets. At one level high, they hold together okay. At two levels high fuggetaboutit. I think the pickets are 3/4 inch thick.

The beds are totally falling apart now. I cannot patch them up anymore.

I was going to get some pallets, or some more fence pickets. But I have read that those may be toxic.

In the worst of those beds, the soil is just inches about the ground. I am thinking: why not just tear down this excuse for a raised bed, and make a mound. Seems like it would be way less expensive, and less trouble, than these raised beds.
 
Carla Burke
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I don't think anyone here is trying to tell you what to do - but, merely answering your question. There are a many reasons for doing thing a particular way as there are people doing them - maybe more.
 
Timothy Norton
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Walter Byrd wrote:In the worst of those beds, the soil is just inches about the ground. I am thinking: why not just tear down this excuse for a raised bed, and make a mound. Seems like it would be way less expensive, and less trouble, than these raised beds.



Honestly, this might be the exact move I make once the boards of my beds give out. I do appreciate the ability to delineate my wood chip pathways with the raised bed soil but I think I could learn to figure it out without the boards.

There is nothing wrong with mound gardening!
 
pollinator
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I've concluded that in order to grow directly in most of the dirt in my small yard I'd have to do a crap ton  of mixing and physical work getting functional compost into the ground, the dirt in my yard has been covered by grass since I-don't-know-when and its very hardpacked.  Growing in raised beds and containers is just a better method for me realistically as someone whose gardening on my own.
 
steward
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Riona Abhainn wrote:I've concluded that in order to grow directly in most of the dirt in my small yard I'd have to do a crap ton  of mixing and physical work getting functional compost into the ground, the dirt in my yard has been covered by grass since I-don't-know-when and its very hardpacked.  Growing in raised beds and containers is just a better method for me realistically as someone whose gardening on my own.



Have you tried getting a load of free wood chips delivered?

Do you have a compost pile?

From what I have read these are one of the best ways to build soil health.
 
Walter Byrd
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Do you mix wood chips in with soil? Or use the wood chips as mulch?

If you mix the wood chips in with the soil, would wood chunks also work?

Speaking of mulch, that is one thing I'm concerned about. How do I mulch - like leaves - to stay on mound? I get some serious wind storms around here.
 
Anne Miller
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Folks here on the forum just put the wood chips right on top of the soil.

https://permies.com/t/120453/Great-Wood-Chips

Mulch can be made from a lot of different organic matter.

Wood chips make a great mulch and so does just chopping and dropping weeds.  Also mulch can be living plants:

https://permies.com/t/274902/Strawberries-living-mulch

https://permies.com/t/166579/Living-Dead-Mulch
 
Riona Abhainn
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Hi Anne, I do have a compost system, part of which is cool composting and part of which is Bokashi, I find that since there are only 2 of us here it doesn't add up super quickly, I'm getting 2 new raised beds and a delivery of some soil and compost probably here in autumn, I have a bit of extra money to spend on garden stuffs so in a couple of months I'll do that, but yes I am making compost myself, also we're going to try and get better at sourcing from posts online where people have too much woodchips etc.  My husband's work schedule has become more condusive to helping me go places more, no driving for me ever and its hard to get a big bag of woodchips on transit, though I'm not above it, have done it before.
 
Anne Miller
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So no free chip drop in your area?
 
master steward
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I find raised beds provide for easier weed control. This year I moved much my garden much closer to my house. I am using 2x4’ water troughs, and 36” tubs all elevated on concrete blocks.  I suspect the move will be as complete as I want it to be by next year.
 
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Walter Byrd wrote: In the worst of those beds, the soil is just inches about the ground. I am thinking: why not just tear down this excuse for a raised bed, and make a mound. Seems like it would be way less expensive, and less trouble, than these raised beds.


Those beds have likely been improving the soil beneath the bed while the wood edging was slowly decomposing - job done!

I made a bunch of raised beds specifically due to my age - I needed to reduce my kneeling, and I felt I didn't have time to improve the packed clay under where the beds were to go.

However, I have been disappointed.
1. Despite putting punky wood in the bottom of the bed, I need to be sure to keep on top of the watering or the top would dry out.
2. Both Canada thistle and Morning Glory (which is a nasty weed in my ecosystem) could grow from deep down and invade my bed even when I tried hard to stay on top of them.
3. The wood sides need a lot more maintenance than I had hoped. I thought I'd made the corners strong enough, but alas, that is not the case.

So I think you should give your plan of mound growing a try for a season or 3 in your ecosystem.

However, one thing an edging of some sort does, is remind people *not* to walk on the beds, but only in the path. Walking or kneeling on garden beds will compact the soil. There are all sorts of ways you can help yourself and others see where to walk and where not to walk - creativity wins here!

One way I have found to improve my clay soil, is to dig a pit. 1 1/2 feet deep is about as good as it gets on my land, but I've seen people quote 3 feet, and only a foot to 2 feet wide. Fill it with punky wood and goodies that will attract worms. Use it as a temporary "compost bin", topping it up with kitchen waste to keep the worms happy. This will allow rainwater to infiltrate deeply, which will encourage the worms to be active, and given a few years, they will do a lot to turn compacted clay into something that at least thinks it can grow veggies.

Personally, I would resist any suggestions that anyone rototill clay soil. My friend did that and the soil just settled back into concrete in less than a season.
 
John F Dean
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Good point Jay.  Soil depth is a significant issue.  My raised beds run about 2 ft deep. I have never planted anything in a raised bed with less than 1 foot of quality soil. By quality I mean  composted vegetative matter and aged manure.
 
Riona Abhainn
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Garden boxes/raised beds are also helpful in situations where the landlord doesn't want a person covering the lawn to kill it because it looks "unsightly".  That's a part of my situation here.  But they have okayed raised beds, so apparently they don't mind some grass being unalived they just don't want it to look ugly to randos walking by, haha.
 
Walter Byrd
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However, one thing an edging of some sort does, is remind people *not* to walk on the beds, but only in the path.



I was thinking about putting posts around the bed, and tying 6mm jute rope around the posts. If I circled the bed a few times, I might even be able to hold some leaves in.

One way I have found to improve my clay soil, is to dig a pit. 1 1/2 feet deep is about as good as it gets on my land, but I've seen people quote 3 feet, and only a foot to 2 feet wide. Fill it with punky wood and goodies that will attract worms.



Thank you. I have clay soil, and it tends to become "hard pan." I also have lots of wood chunks. At first I put lawn cloth under my beds, to keeps weeds down. But it did not stop the weeds, and limited how deep roots could grow. I took out the lawn cloth, but the "soil" was clay and became hard as a rock.
 
Jay Angler
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Walter Byrd wrote:  I have clay soil, and it tends to become "hard pan." I also have lots of wood chunks. At first I put lawn cloth under my beds, to keeps weeds down. But it did not stop the weeds, and limited how deep roots could grow. I took out the lawn cloth, but the "soil" was clay and became hard as a rock.  


Another big help with my clay soil has been biochar. There's lots of info about different ways to make it here: https://permies.com/f/190/biochar

It lightens the soil, and holds onto the microbes. It works well along with adding lots of organic matter, so it isn't a "one or the other", but more like stacking functions by using both.
 
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There are some social benefits to having extremely clearly delineated "this is a garden bed" type beds, beyond their purely physical advantages and disadvantages.

A raised bed that looks like a garden bed signals to anyone else who might be doing stuff in the space, like a lawn care company if one rents, that the stuff planted in it is there on purpose. This reduces the likelihood of the horror stories one hears about perennials getting unwittingly ripped out by well-meaning people ignorant of their utility.

A raised bed can also help send the "i am managing this space as a garden bed" cue to one's own brain, which may not make sense if you have an easy time with that kind of thing, but might make a lot of sense to those on various axes of neurodiversity. Without clearly delineated beds, my brain tends to treat the garden as being all one task and therefore too large/daunting a task to tackle unless the stars are perfectly aligned. With clearly delineated beds, I can do the "well I'll just go through and manage this one bed" trick, and often end up actually doing several.

 
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Growing straight in the ground may work just fine. I have clay soil, with very strong spring and fall thunderstorms. These made my garden too soggy to work the ground, or directly plant when planting time arrives. I didn't have funds for edging raised beds, so I ended up digging out paths, placing the dirt on the beds. You can see how my garden developed in this thread.

Let us know what you end up doing!
 
Jay Angler
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I am reading Patrick Whitefields, How to make a forest garden. He talks about taking topsoil off the top of paths and adding it to the planting areas beside the paths, and then using the path to double as shallow drainage ditches for heavy storms. So Joylynn Hardesty is not alone in her solution to this problem.

We've been trending towards bigger storms, so managing slopes and *choosing* where to send unexpected water is becoming more important. Slowing it, so it is stored deeper in your soil, is an asset also.
 
pollinator
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Anne Miller wrote:So no free chip drop in your area?



It's just not available everywhere. I was on the list for over a year before I found out that in my area arborists, power companies and even cities and counties simply dump tree waste into landfills.

Solution: I found a cheap wood chipper in an online marketplace. My next vehicle will be a pickup truck.
 
pollinator
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One reason for raised beds it to as completely as possible getting your plants out of your soil.  My soil is pure clay with shale rock down as little as 6 inches.  It is high pH (8.5 to 8.7) with a high salt content.  It is also nearly waterproof without organic matter.  If I go only up, only my bottom is connected with my soil instead of bottom and 4 sides.  Because of how waterproof the soil is any other soil I put in it fills the pores with water and builds an in ground pool that takes time to dry out which kills by over water.

Then adding an aging one.  It gets harder and harder to get up and down to weed and harvest.  My ideal raised bed height at this point is at least 18 inches and ideally 20 or 22 inches.  This is so I can get up and down easier and can sit on the edge while working.  Because of back trouble maximum width is 4 feet inside edge to inside edge.
 
Yeardly Arthur
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Jay Angler wrote:I am reading Patrick Whitefields, How to make a forest garden. He talks about taking topsoil off the top of paths and adding it to the planting areas beside the paths, and then using the path to double as shallow drainage ditches for heavy storms. So Joylynn Hardesty is not alone in her solution to this problem.
We've been trending towards bigger storms, so managing slopes and *choosing* where to send unexpected water is becoming more important. Slowing it, so it is stored deeper in your soil, is an asset also.




I decided to dig 2 ft deep trenches into all of the paths between my terrace rows. I used the (mostly clay) soil to help level the terraces themselves, then backfilled with deadwood, charcoal, gypsum and compost, covered with a heavy layer of wood chips and sawdust. This allows me to collect thousands of gallons of rainwater with every storm, and may be the only thing that's kept my tomatoes alive through this long summer drought.
 
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